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Bushing die (worth it for the non-long range, non-bulk shooter)?

What ever dies you are using, an indicator to measure the run out will end all doubt. 21st century makes a dandy. Some dies and some techniques are just nothing short of horrible. Once you have a run out indicator, you will solve your run out issues with dies and lube techniques in a hurry.

I have a small flock of die sets, lots of Redding comp and S bushing dies, lots of Lee collet dies, lots of Forster dies.

Lee collet dies will make some very straight ammo, and there are various sources to get mandrels graduated from .0001-.0005 in dia. These mandrels are less expensive than Bushings.

The straightest ammo that I have ever produced was with neck turned brass, using Forster honed dies giving run out less than .0002, not .002.

Reloading is a hobby within a hobby, you can take it to any level you wish. Some of the guys testing Berger bullets at 1000 yards have some pretty strict regiments that they go though, and checking every seated bullet for run out is one of them.

Shooting .500 MOA is not all that difficult with regular dies, it is when you go to .250 minute rifle or smaller that things get real picky on many levels.

For a guy using regular dies, Forster's system is very advanced in how the expander ball goes through the neck while the neck is still supported, this is a huge advantage in reducing run out. Also, lubing the inside of the case neck on a regular set of NON Forster dies helps to reduce run out from the expander ball yanking the neck out of alignment. Also, Forster makes a Neck bumping bushing neck sizer that really works. Since I started using the Forster Neck bumping bushing neck sizer, I have not had to full length size my 6.5x47 at all!

Many advanced shooters run a mandrel through their necks to straighten out any "kinks" that has been introduced during the sizing process.

Also, consistent neck tension is critical. K&M makes a force indicator along with other companies that tells the tension that is required to seat a bullet. I do not use these, but I do pay strict attention to how much pressure is needed when I start to seat a bullet. If more or less force is used, that loaded round is a "cull", used for fouling shots.

Annealing is a simple way to get consistent seating force needed, ie. neck tension with the bullet.

Mram, collet sizers produce very straight sized neck on neck turned cases. You do need the ability to use various mandrels to Tune the load. Lee sells them in .001 increments, but you may want them in .0005 increments which Grangers has. Grangers does not have a de capping pin on the bottom. Of course with Granger's mandrel's, you have to de cap in a separete operation, which I like to do so I can "feel" how tight the primer pocket is. I use a tight rubber O ring on the top of the mandrel to hold the mandrel in the die.
 
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I have been reading about bushing dies and im just not sure it makes sense for me to buy them. I will be reloading for my 6.5prc rifle using either barnes TTSX or hammer bullets and ADG brass which are already expensive. This is for a dedicated whitetail hunting rig which will never see more than 400 yards and will not see a ton of shooting either so I don't need my brass to last 6+ times each firing. I will be buying 100 pieces of brass. I will once fire the brass with cheap bullets and then I will do a quick load work up with the hammers or barnes. As soon as I hit a stable/consistent sub 1 MOA I am calling it good and loading all 100 which will likely last me a decade or two or until I get bored and buy another rifle lol. Is it really worth it for me to get a bushing die and competition seater die or should I just get a regular Redding die set? A regular die set is like 75$ while the bushing/sizer die set with bushings will be 170-200$. Thanks!
I shoot a 30 yr old browning factory Abolt in 7mmremmag. I use Hornady Custom dies, fireform cases and neck size only. I get 1/2" groups with Hornady 162gr eldx bullets at 3100fps. Obviously don't need expensive dies to get great groups
 
I have been reading about bushing dies and im just not sure it makes sense for me to buy them. I will be reloading for my 6.5prc rifle using either barnes TTSX or hammer bullets and ADG brass which are already expensive. This is for a dedicated whitetail hunting rig which will never see more than 400 yards and will not see a ton of shooting either so I don't need my brass to last 6+ times each firing. I will be buying 100 pieces of brass. I will once fire the brass with cheap bullets and then I will do a quick load work up with the hammers or barnes. As soon as I hit a stable/consistent sub 1 MOA I am calling it good and loading all 100 which will likely last me a decade or two or until I get bored and buy another rifle lol. Is it really worth it for me to get a bushing die and competition seater die or should I just get a regular Redding die set? A regular die set is like 75$ while the bushing/sizer die set with bushings will be 170-200$. Thanks!

Just get the 6.5PRC Lee Pacesetter dies for $38 on eBay and you'd be totally set. Problem solved.
 
Based on your criteria, a standard set of reloading dies should easily accomplish your goals.
I like bushing dies because I hate dragging an expander ball up through a sized neck. Nothing good comes from this operation. However, it's no so bad that you shouldn't be able to attain the results that you described.
On the few cartridges that I do use standard dies (458 SOCOM is one) I apply Imperial Sizing Wax inside of the necks with a q-tip to minimize drag on the expander ball.
 
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