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Bullet question, Hammer Bullets vs others

I loaded 18 rounds of my best test group. (57.8gr of Retumbo, 140 Berger Elite Hunters)
I ran a brush down the barrel and a quick patch.
I attached my Magnetospeed, shot 1- 3042 FPS, shot 2- 3081, shot 3- 3084. (I'm guessing the first shot was slow due to pushing a brush and dry patch down first?
I removed Magnetospeed and threaded on my suppressor, I added 1% velocity gain (based off shots 2-3) and that's what I used for my drop calculations.
I shot 5 shots @ 100, 5 shots @ 200 and 5 shots @ 300.
Weather, 30 degrees and a 15-20mph wind almost at 90 degrees.

I'm going to assume the 200 yard test was my shooting.

Thoughts?
I think I'll load more of this and shoot some more for practice till my Hammer Hunters arrive
 

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I would suggest removing the suppressor and relying more on your Magnetospeed. it is capable of really telling you a lot about what is going on. For get the SD as that is just a feel good number. Focus on getting your ES consistent. You will be able to dial in the velocity and powder charge that our barrel harmonics cooperates with. Add the suppressor back into the mix once you have identified your base load. Less variable the better. When you add the suppressor back in, the barrel harmonics will change the Point of Impact will shift but should be an easy adjustment of zero or correct in-app.

Next suggestion would be to check how much you are cleaning your rifle. You want copper to build up in the barrel. Your velocity will continue to climb for the 1st 100-200 rounds down the barrel. I suggest running 1 patch of something mild like Hoppe#9 followed by several dry patches (no brush needed) after each range session to clean dirty and powder from the barrel. Worry about a thorough cleaning if the groups open up or the velocity gets wonky (carbon rings, excess copper). I am not sure with your cartridge but I would look at this no sooner than 500 rounds. This will give you much more consistent shot to shot velocities than starting each session with steel on copper and progressing into copper/copper.

Next, study up on the fundamentals of marksmanship. Body position is very important. Hopefully you are not on a bench but if you are shoot off of bags and not hard/hard contact like bipod on bench. Focus on EXACT consistent eye relief as different parallax each time you look through the scope will give you a shifting zero. Also be VERY mindful of mirage from barrel and suppressor heat. A barrel mirage band and suppressor cover will drastically help with this. This will show up in shooting groups in my 6.5 Creedmoor with medium palma barrel after only 5 rounds. Adding the suppressor will speed this heating up. Last but certainly not least, focus on your trigger press, get the trigger adjusted down or replaced if you can. A heavy (especially rough) trigger is not suitable for small groups.

Good luck.
 
WiscGunner, thanks for the reply. I have 300+ rounds down the barrel now. I scrapped lots of data due to reloading curve and getting new dies.
I have read and evaluated an enormous amount of internet input (here and a couple Facebook groups for beginner reloaders). I have over 100 rounds wasted because I was trying to find a load with only my magnetospeed (finding a node). My best recipes with the lowest ES produced bad groups.... I know what your gonna say, shouldn't be that way.... but it was.
I ended up only using the magnetospeed for verification now and I have shot much better.
I'm shooting off bags.
No mirage because of cold temps. Concentrated on parallax as well as trigger squeeze. That I feel very confident in.
 
WiscGunner, thanks for the reply. I have 300+ rounds down the barrel now. I scrapped lots of data due to reloading curve and getting new dies.
I have read and evaluated an enormous amount of internet input (here and a couple Facebook groups for beginner reloaders). I have over 100 rounds wasted because I was trying to find a load with only my magnetospeed (finding a node). My best recipes with the lowest ES produced bad groups.... I know what your gonna say, shouldn't be that way.... but it was.
I ended up only using the magnetospeed for verification now and I have shot much better.
I'm shooting off bags.
No mirage because of cold temps. Concentrated on parallax as well as trigger squeeze. That I feel very confident in.

Keep in mind your suppressor will likely increase your velocity depending on your load. May be as mych as 50fps but canbe as low as 2fps in my experience.

When using the magnetospeed, you find a velocity node and then load in the middle of that node so an error in your charge weight will still fall in the node. So far this has nothing to do with groups except consistency of velocity which is only one factor. The next step is to then load a test batch with different seating depths all with that same charge weight. This will help dial in your groups. There are plenty of recommendations of what particular bullets prefer to jump to the lands. When that is dialed in, if you still are not happy you can start changing primers but be careful. There is a great thread going on how different primers drastically affect groupings. I don't think this is a necessary rabit hole for youat this stage.

As for your velocity data, shoot a min of 5 shots for data, more is better. Shooting 3 and assuming one is NOT a load varience but a barrel cleaning variance is just as worthless as any other type of assumption.

Be careful of tge details. You are wanting to shrink your groups and the smaller you get the harder it is to get an increasingly smaller improvement.

I personally think your biggest improvement will come from fundamentals and not chasing load data but then again a solid fundamental load workup might not have been achieved yet.

Are you measuring how much your bullets are jumping before contacting the lands. Happy to describe how I do this if you like.

What steps, in detail, are you taking to get exact same cheek weld for consistence scope picture? Parallax from an changing cheek weld will kill your groups. Happy to describe this too if you like.

What is your shooting position? Are you on a bench? Lead sled? Prone? Concrete or grass? Never have hard/hard contact.

Sorry for all the questions but more info will be helpful to give you better suggestions for improvement.
 
If you plan to continue with a suppressor, MagnetoSpeed has a trade-in/up provram I believe where you can upgrade to a V3 from your sporter so you can use the chronograph with your can
 
I know I have to work on fundamentals, I'm trying to find classes or a "mentor". But as of now, I'm self taught, reading an watching videos.
As long as I know I have a load that is good, and just over an inch at 300, I feel that's good, I can now concentrate more on my fundamentals and know if a missed shot is me or the load/equipment.

Currently I've been bench/bag shooting.

I do believe I'll be doing that magneto trade in, just haven't yet.
 
As for cheek weld, I have my rifle setup so my eye is just slightly to far back at first impression. Then as I relax into to the position I bring my head forward just slightly until the view in the scope goes from a slight black rum to no rim. This way I always get on the gun the same way then.

As for trigger press, there are several different grips/pressures that work well but you need to find what works for you and then consiously practice it jntil it become second nature andis comfortable and natural.

More pressure into the shoulder offsets recoil but if that pressure is different shot to shot your POI will change shot to shot. I find I get kn the gun...head,eye, hand, fiber, rearward pressure, trigger press. I also use a Tubb T7t 2 stage trigger that I love. 2-stage triggers give me a sense of ready and a cleaner breakwith the same pressure. Mine is set at 1.5lbtotal weight so it feels like a 1/2lb trigger. I also highly recommend (even over the Tubb due to QC) the X-Trwme Mod 22 trigger. Both have adjustable shoes so you can get the trigger shoot forward or backwards depending on the size if your hand so you don't curl your finger when you pull the trigger.

As a general rule pull the trigger at about 2/3 down on your 3rd breathe. I prefer to breathe once and take up the 1st stage, breathe twice and confirm, breathe a 3rd time and break the second stage 2/3 down the last exhale.

Perhaps you have already adopted techniques that work for you in these areas but this is what works for me so it may or may not be helpful to you.
 
Once you have your fundamentals down where you can consistently shoot under 1/2" at 100yrds, stop shooting groups. Once I and my load are good I go to shooting the same size bital zone sized target (6" and 8" plates) at varing distances from a variety of field positions. Throw ina 10" or 12" plate further out for confidence and some 2" and 4" targets for a challenge. This will let you know how consistent you are on different game atdifferent distances. Be sure to elevate your heart rate, vary your positions, apply time pressure and get out of your comfort zone.

If you have a lical PRS club match in your area, I highly recommend it as it will surely make you a better hunter as far as the weapon is concerned.
 
When using the magnetospeed, you find a velocity node and then load in the middle of that node so an error in your charge weight will still fall in the node. So far this has nothing to do with groups except consistency of velocity which is only one factor. The next step is to then load a test batch with different seating depths all with that same charge weight. This will help dial in your groups. There are plenty of recommendations of what particular bullets prefer to jump to the lands. When that is dialed in, if you still are not happy you can start changing primers but be careful. There is a great thread going on how different primers drastically affect groupings. I don't think this is a necessary rabit hole for youat this stage.

As for your velocity data, shoot a min of 5 shots for data, more is better.

Your looking for something like this?
 

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This is what I have been working on in Numbers so I can plot the Magnetospeed data at the range on my iphone. Working on several different graphs to visually break this down as well.This is only 3-shot strings but you can decide if 3 or 5 is what you want to do. An average will paint a more accurate picture to pick from than single shots for velocity.

Factory match ammo at the bottom for comparison.
 
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