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Bullet Lube

Can you post a pic of your setup? I want to start doing this for my 338 rum, 300 norma improved, ans 7ss max. My only worry is I'm already compressed w/ N570 in the 338 rum @ 95.5gr. Adding another 1.5-2gr might not fit to get velocity back up to where I have it.
If your not using a drop tube, you can gain at least as much capacity as you would need to get velocity back up with HBN. If you not using one, you should get one either way, even if you don't end up using HBN, it will help your compressed issue
 
I read about this hbn years ago but the light just never went on. From what you say it seems win win. Is there a carrier involved such as carnauba wax to keep it on the bullets similar to moly?
No, moly is a coating. HBN is an impact plating process. It sticks to nothing. You have to beat it into the pores if the metal. Not messy like molly. Be careful, once you go to the dark side you may never go back.
 
No, moly is a coating. HBN is an impact plating process.

Moly application is an impact plating process. You can't apply moly by dipping into or brushing on.

Not messy like molly.

Both products are a fine powder. Both products are applied dry the same way. Applying either product will result in residue. The only reason why HBN seems 'clean' is because it is almost transparent , whereas moly is black.

You have HBN on your fingers when you handle a HBN plated bullet, you just can't see much of it against your skin.
 
HBN is easy to apply once you have a system. It is worth the effort and is effective as others have stated. I only use it in competition rifles that go through a lot of rounds and those that tend to build-up with copper easily. Cannot switch back and forth as coated rounds will group differently but generally HBN are more consistent for me. For good results you need to clean the jackets well with alcohol. I dry them after cleaning with compressed air. I have found room temperature is fine and do not apply heat. I place 500 in something like a large peanut butter jar along with some stainless steel shot/media and a teaspoon (first time with clean media, after that just sprinkle a little in each time) of HBN. Too much HBN in your bottle will cause it to not apply evenly. Secure the lid with some electrical tape and place the bottle in in a vibratory tumbler. Let it run for an hour an separate from media (your normal method for separating brass/media will work). I the pour the coated pills into an old sock and roll them around a few time to remove the excess powder for a more uniform look and pour them back into the original box.
Clean the barrel well to remove all copper and carbon and run an HBN/ alcohol soaked pad through the barrel (let dry) prior to the first shot. Like was said by Orange Dust, you may never go back.
 
Ive never used the wet method so i cant say, other than it does not exist with HBN coated bullets.
I molly coat all my bullets using the wet method it is so easy so cheap and actually relatively fast process I do not store my ammo for extended periods of time so I cannot say that this will help with Cold weld but how can it not you have a lubricant coating between the brass and the bullet I believe it must help and it does extend the life of my barrel I shoot a custom 6.5 x 284 my last barrel was shot in about 1100 rounds the barrel I have nowHas over 1600 rounds on it I'm still going
 
You like that magnetospeed? I have an oehler 35P. Kinda a pain to set up buy I can shoot and not worry about impact change. That magnetospeed has to change your harmonics and impact yes?
Look for a website called wiser precision they have a set up where are the magneto speed does not mount to the barrel and eliminate any point of impact change
 
I use hbn in every barrel except my ARs.
Lots of benefits to it, once you get setup for it, it's easy to coat. I use a food strainer to wash, a food dehydrator to dry and warm them up, and the Tubb kit bottle to coat in my tumbler. I can stay several hundred bullets ahead of my loading.
Pros,
Less barrel cleaning
Less carbon ring problems.
Low es
Slowed throat erosion
No bullet weld
Ability to load to higher velocity.

cons,
I got nothing...
Except a p.i.t.a
 
I run the lab radar. bought the battery pack for it.. lasts all day and its fully charged in a hr.. I still have my Mspeed but now it's in the old news pile
 

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HBN is easy to apply once you have a system. It is worth the effort and is effective as others have stated. I only use it in competition rifles that go through a lot of rounds and those that tend to build-up with copper easily. Cannot switch back and forth as coated rounds will group differently but generally HBN are more consistent for me. For good results you need to clean the jackets well with alcohol. I dry them after cleaning with compressed air. I have found room temperature is fine and do not apply heat. I place 500 in something like a large peanut butter jar along with some stainless steel shot/media and a teaspoon (first time with clean media, after that just sprinkle a little in each time) of HBN. Too much HBN in your bottle will cause it to not apply evenly. Secure the lid with some electrical tape and place the bottle in in a vibratory tumbler. Let it run for an hour an separate from media (your normal method for separating brass/media will work). I the pour the coated pills into an old sock and roll them around a few time to remove the excess powder for a more uniform look and pour them back into the original box.
Clean the barrel well to remove all copper and carbon and run an HBN/ alcohol soaked pad through the barrel (let dry) prior to the first shot. Like was said by Orange Dust, you may never go back.
I coat them in my garage. They coat fine in the summer. In the winter I have to warm them to get the stuff to stick. I don't use any media. I tried SS shot and got tiny dents in the bullet jacket. Does the SS cleaning media do this? Reason I ask is I see the benefit of using it if It doesn't. To properly coat large bullets, I throw in 100 .22cal bullets to get them to coat properly. Then I have to sort them back out. The larger the bullet the more difficult it is to get them to coat properly without any carrier. Tubb recommends not using a carrier. Wonder if he has changed his tune since he has started working with large calibers?
 
Except a p.i.t.a
I really don't know why you think that. It's really no big deal, I don't even think about it. Unless you shoot 1000 bullets a month maybe.
It takes me about a half hour to prep the bullets and get them tumbling, and that's because I'm waiting for the bullets to dry and heat up a little. That takes about 20 minutes, during that time I'm doing absolutely nothing pertaining to the process, usually on here surfing the forum.
 
If your not using a drop tube, you can gain at least as much capacity as you would need to get velocity back up with HBN. If you not using one, you should get one either way, even if you don't end up using HBN, it will help your compressed issue
I'm using a 9" drop tube, also tamping cases in some situations to get bullet seating consistent. I def want to start doing this. On my vo ladder I went 2 grains hotter than this but it was really compressed.
 
I'm using a 9" drop tube, also tamping cases in some situations to get bullet seating consistent. I def want to start doing this. On my vo ladder I went 2 grains hotter than this but it was really compressed.
You'll probably be fine, I doubt you'll need to go two grains higher.
 
Can you post a pic of your setup? I want to start doing this for my 338 rum, 300 norma improved, ans 7ss max. My only worry is I'm already compressed w/ N570 in the 338 rum @ 95.5gr. Adding another 1.5-2gr might not fit to get velocity back up to where I have it.

Heavy compression of the powder might also push the coated bullets back out of the cases, depending on how much and what type of powder. I have read & heard of this happening, even with un-coated bullets, but have never had it happen to me. Just another consideration.
 
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