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Building off of a savage action

All of this turd talk has got me in the market for my own turd.
For most of my life, I've owned big greens products. Long story short, I'm in the process of getting a model 10fcp-sr, in 308.
Can't wait to get my hands on it for what it is already, but now, more so then ever, is the possibilities, such as some of the pix of the turds, above this post.
These things are no joke, and are truly Badass. I owned a Savage 10fcp HS, Precision, and don't know why I sold it.
Love this thread!
 
All of this turd talk has got me in the market for my own turd.
For most of my life, I've owned big greens products. Long story short, I'm in the process of getting a model 10fcp-sr, in 308.
Can't wait to get my hands on it for what it is already, but now, more so then ever, is the possibilities, such as some of the pix of the turds, above this post.
These things are no joke, and are truly Badass. I owned a Savage 10fcp HS, Precision, and don't know why I sold it.
Love this thread!
Welcome back to the dark side!
 
Savage mod 10 .308 B&C Medalist w/ XTR II 5-25X50
Savage mod 12 .223 alum bedded pillar stock, Bushnell 6-24x40.
Love my Savages.
 
Shot my latest turd build today at 100yds to get it tuned up for a hog hunt next weekend.
2018-04-07 14.51.26.jpg


Pulled the last shot of five a little high. I get too excited a blow a shot nearly every time!

Any way
6.5 Creedmoor
Savage SA stock Accutrigger
Savage pull off barrel I got here
Boyds stock
EGW base
Vortex rings

130gr Nosler RDF
Hornady brass
H4350
Winchester primers
43.0gr of powder
 
Shot my latest turd build today at 100yds to get it tuned up for a hog hunt next weekend.
View attachment 95496

Pulled the last shot of five a little high. I get too excited a blow a shot nearly every time!

Any way
6.5 Creedmoor
Savage SA stock Accutrigger
Savage pull off barrel I got here
Boyds stock
EGW base
Vortex rings

130gr Nosler RDF
Hornady brass
H4350
Winchester primers
43.0gr of powder
Nice group, from that turd. And I know all about the famous pulled fifth shot. Do it all the time.
I had a little change of heart on my SAVAGE choice. Instead of the 10fcp, I'm going with the 110 TACTICAL, that has the accufit stock.
I always thought a 110 was a long action. But is listed as short. Nice rifle, can't wait to make it into a turd.
 
I always thought a 110 was a long action. But is listed as short. Nice rifle, can't wait to make it into a turd.
The way I understand it...three digit model is long and two digit is short...16/116 are stainless. The short is still the two digit and three is still a long.
 
Nice group, from that turd. And I know all about the famous pulled fifth shot. Do it all the time.
I had a little change of heart on my SAVAGE choice. Instead of the 10fcp, I'm going with the 110 TACTICAL, that has the accufit stock.
I always thought a 110 was a long action. But is listed as short. Nice rifle, can't wait to make it into a turd.

From the Savage site:
Savage has basiclly divided up the types of rifles and given them their own series. 2 digit numbers are Short Actions and 3 digit numbers are long actions.

10/110 = Sporter (old designation, now 10/110 is designation for the Law Enforcement Series)
11/111 = Sporter (new designation)
12/112 = Varmint Series
14/114 = Classic Series (same as Sporter Series but High Luster Blue and Nicer Wood Stocks)
16/116 = Weather Warrior Series (SS Actions, barrels, and Synthetic Stocks)
25 & 40 = Lightweight Varmint Series (these are a totally different Action Setup)
Axis = Entry Sporter ( Different Action and Stocks, Sporter Style with DBM only)
All the letters after the Model # signify Stock, Barrel Profile, Muzzle Break, etc.

Example: 12FVSS = Model 12 Varmint Series, "F" = Syn. Stock "V"= Varmint Barrel "SS"= Stainless Steel Action and Barrel

Reply With Quote
 
From the Savage site:
Savage has basiclly divided up the types of rifles and given them their own series. 2 digit numbers are Short Actions and 3 digit numbers are long actions.

10/110 = Sporter (old designation, now 10/110 is designation for the Law Enforcement Series)
11/111 = Sporter (new designation)
12/112 = Varmint Series
14/114 = Classic Series (same as Sporter Series but High Luster Blue and Nicer Wood Stocks)
16/116 = Weather Warrior Series (SS Actions, barrels, and Synthetic Stocks)
25 & 40 = Lightweight Varmint Series (these are a totally different Action Setup)
Axis = Entry Sporter ( Different Action and Stocks, Sporter Style with DBM only)
All the letters after the Model # signify Stock, Barrel Profile, Muzzle Break, etc.

Example: 12FVSS = Model 12 Varmint Series, "F" = Syn. Stock "V"= Varmint Barrel "SS"= Stainless Steel Action and Barrel

Reply With Quote
Greyfox, thanks for clearing thst up for me, but im sure you can understand my confusion.
Looking forward to it, been looking at barrels, and all the fixings avail , and making my own turd.
Still wish I had that 10fcp-HS, precision I had a few years ago.
Bug killer!
 
I have become so accustomed to the ergonomics of my PRS rifles (22LR and 6.5x284) built on chassis', that I wanted to try one out on one of my LR hunting rifles. This rifle is a LRH in 6.5x284 that has performed superbly(.25MOA) right out of the box. I upgraded the Accu-Trigger with a 1.5# Timney, added a larger tactical bolt, and an MPA Light Chassis(3 pounds). My PRS centerfire weighs 16.25 pounds which is OK for PRS but way too heavy for my style of hunting. The total weight with the MPA light Chassis with bipod, magazine, scope(24OZ), comes in at 12 pounds, same as the stock rifle similarly loaded. The original barrel continues to perform exceptionally well with several hundred rounds through it, but if it ever gives up the ghost, I'll screw on a Criterion Heavy Sporter which is dimensionally identical and same weight as the OEM barrel.
This "Turd" stands quite tall next to my full custom, and Cooper 6.5x284's.
38B3B4ED-B483-4862-A8E3-7E2508C6E741.jpeg
 
Did somebody say that that sometimes you hsve to adjust or modify the aluminum rail in the accustock?
I know I read it, but couldn't find it, just like those awesome paintjobs, with the krylon paint.
?????. THANKS.
 
Did somebody say that that sometimes you hsve to adjust or modify the aluminum rail in the accustock?
I know I read it, but couldn't find it, just like those awesome paintjobs, with the krylon paint.
?????. THANKS.
If you use one of the high end recoil lugs you must cut it down or modify the rail in the accustock as the dimensions differ for the accustock lug and that on other non-accustock Savages.
 
I have become so accustomed to the ergonomics of my PRS rifles (22LR and 6.5x284) built on chassis', that I wanted to try one out on one of my LR hunting rifles. This rifle is a LRH in 6.5x284 that has performed superbly(.25MOA) right out of the box. I upgraded the Accu-Trigger with a 1.5# Timney, added a larger tactical bolt, and an MPA Light Chassis(3 pounds). My PRS centerfire weighs 16.25 pounds which is OK for PRS but way too heavy for my style of hunting. The total weight with the MPA light Chassis with bipod, magazine, scope(24OZ), comes in at 12 pounds, same as the stock rifle similarly loaded. The original barrel continues to perform exceptionally well with several hundred rounds through it, but if it ever gives up the ghost, I'll screw on a Criterion Heavy Sporter which is dimensionally identical and same weight as the OEM barrel.
This "Turd" stands quite tall next to my full custom, and Cooper 6.5x284's.
View attachment 95660

Gave the Savage MPA chassis a try at the range yesterday......just had to do a little tuning of the Accurate-Mag, 5 shot magazine to get perfect feeding. It's designed for 30-06, and required the forward portion of the feed lips be opened a bit due to the fatter case size of the 6.5x284. Five shot group was off my pack, sitting(bit of a 3'clock wind pick-up).

30D6B335-C894-4EC9-B990-D9EB680B80BD.jpeg DC074022-2974-4833-8123-172E0B8F152F.jpeg
 
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