Browning x bolt western hunter 26 nosler

[FIGJAM]

Didn't follow that regiment precisely but did clean with patch only and carbon remover a lot.

I think barrel break in is a myth and way over rated. If you have eliminated the scope and rings and you just having an off day, it may just not like the ABLR bullet. In my experience, a gun that is a shooter will shoot right out of the gate with premium factory ammo and then tighten up with some load development. I think I would try some handloads and if it doesn't tighten up I would kick it down the road.

 

[FIGJAM]

I shoot a 2506 x bolt and I have 2 sons that shoot 7 mm mag x bolts and all are great rifles. If I was in the market for a new rifle it would be another x bolt.

I have owned 3 and still own 1 and they have all been shooters.

 

[Deviant]

I think barrel break in is a myth and way over rated. If you have eliminated the scope and rings and you just having an off day, it may just not like the ABLR bullet. In my experience, a gun that is a shooter will shoot right out of the gate with premium factory ammo and then tighten up with some load development. I think I would try some handloads and if it doesn't tighten up I would kick it down the road.

I would agree with this to a point but your barrel will indeed speed up at some point and your accuracy node may change when that happens. I would put more rounds down the pipe until it speeds up before load development. You could definitely play with seating depth during the process though and then find your powder nodes once its broken in. It sounds like you need more brass fire formed first anyway.

 

[Greg.S]

I have a Western Hunter in 26 Nosler that shoots 140 gr Nosler factory ammo really well. Started with the 129 gr LRAB, but they would not group. First two shots at 100 yds are usually touching, but third shot usually about an inch off. I always shoot 3 shot groups then let cool off for 10-15 minutes. Doubletap Ammo 127 gr Barnes LRX (3600 FPS) also shoot pretty well.

 

[osok-1k]

I hate to add too much to this well discussed post but a few important factors have not been addressed. Torquing is very very important for every component with a screw, go to the manufacturers site or contact their tech support to learn what they say about the products you're using including recommended sequence. After properly installing your rings, check them with a true straight edge to make sure they are perfectly level and square with each other, if not then you will be applying some lateral forces to your scope which aren't good. There's an easy fix posted for uneven rings using JB weld which I've adopted as opposed to honing with compound and a round bar. Most round receivers are not truly round as they are polished by hand on a wheel or belt, so when you apply they correct torque they flex and none of surfaces are as true as they are at rest (receiver out of the stock), proper bedding will account for these variances and allow torque to be applied without flexing the receiver. Your Browning should be bedded at the recoil lug from the factory but may need addressing at the tang area. With everything square and properly torqued you'll eliminate those variable from the equation and can then focus on cartridge / bullet performance. As mentioned earlier, don't rule out a scope issue, it's worth the trouble to take a know good scope from another rifle just to be sure. A gunsmith friend of mine uses a fixed power target scope for all load development and performance testing, it's a tool he trusts and can comfortably eliminate that component when working out bugs.

 

[Gills]

I'll take it apart tonight and double check. I have to agree that even if the barrel isn't broke in I should get better groups than 3 inches. Pi have read other places that they like the heavier bullets which is disappointing. But I'll try it.

 

[Draftmule]

GILLS - I feel you're pain! Just about gave up on my N26. What great tips here for you to follow up on. Order a bunch of 140 Nosler Balistic Tips ( even blems) and burn a couple boxes through your new barrel.You will get it honed in and confidence before going back to your bullet of choice. Ease up to 87 grains 869 with NBT 140s @ 3.35 coal. Please let us know how the battle goes.

 

[Gills]

I absolutely will but it will be a while sometimes finding time for this is a struggle

 

[Gills]

Ok I finally got the gun checked over good. No issues there at all. I am still awaiting a couple boxes of loaded ammo. To shoot and see. Don't feel like I would be doing any good with load development if it wound throw a diecent group anyway. also barrell has been well cleaned. Although there was very very little copper fowl in it. Will report back as soon as I can shoot it

 

[engineer40]

Haven't seen it mentioned here but probably was. Make sure to use thread lock on all scope mounts. Had a freedom arms 454 casuul and let sportsmans warehouse put a new scope on it. Didn't lok tite it. Next thing I see is the scope flying thru the air on the 4th round.

Thread lock is half the fix. Getting the oil off the screws and screw holes with non-residue brake cleaner is the other half. Thread lock doesnt work nearly as good unless you get that oil off of everything first. Just my experience with it anyways.

 

[punxsutawn]

Gill, I have a Browning Xbolt 26 nosler Stainless long range hunter with a brake. I've tried the Nosler the 129 and 143 grain Long range accubonds, both factory and reloads as well as Hornady 143 eldx reloads... all to no avail. I too can only achieve a 3" group at 100 yards. I verified action screws, changed scopes, cleaned the barrel, (only ever used patches and jags along with Sweet's) and nothing seems to work. I followed the proper break-in protocol as always. I really don't know where to go from here! I feel your pain my friend. I've been doing this for more than 30 years and never came across this issue...with the exception of a Browning Abolt with the BOSS system. I almost moved that on until I lapped the rings, changed the BOSS settings and moved to a heavier bullet. Now it's my go to rifle. Please let me know if you have a combination that eventually works! All the best to you!

 

[Gills]

I absolutely will although it will be a while time is scarce. And I'm reluctant to play with reloads because I'm not sure if I'd trust the group to be reload or rifle related. I'm thinking a few more rounds down barrel will make my difference I hope it seemed to get bettter towards the end of my last few shots

 

[LongBomber]

I have shot about 10 different bullets and 5-6 powders through 2 different 26's. Plus the three different factory loads (on sale so it was 1/2 price of just buying brass).
#1- that 129 factory load sucked in both my rifles. From the nosler m48 it would do 2-3 moa groups, from my fierce best was around 1moa. Also you prob want to go to a heavier bullet anyways, that 129 is pretty explosive at closer ranges.

The nosler 140 accubond load was accurate in both my rifles. I made a duplicate for the rifle I kept, 88gr of us869 and seated .020" off the lands. Ran a couple ladders, and shot a few groups, right there was the most consistent accuracy. 3290fps from my fierce with a 26" barrel.
The barnes lrx was accurate in both rifles, in the fierce I run 79.5gr RL33 seated .070" off the lands, 3493fps and consistent 1/2moa accuracy. Thats the bullet I stick with now, pretty effective.

I would seriously think about trying one of the solid copper bullets, CED, hammers or barnes. The 26 can push a 130-140 pretty hard and the softer cup and core bullets expand pretty drastically at those speeds.

 

[Gills]

Might be worth trying thanks