Browning Muzzle Threading Woes

[txgunner00]

You've probably checked this but make sure the added weight of the can is not pulling the barrel into contact with the stock in the barrel channel.

I was about to suggest this also.

 

[HuntingBronco]

Update - I slipped 3 pieces of plastic shims under the recoil lug. Groups the way it should. Thanks for all the great suggestions, especially this one.

Question, I want this in the field and while I don't want to leave it shimmed, wondering if I can just bed the lug or if you all would suggest picking up the chamber part of the barrel? And just a drop or so on the tang? Thanks again.

 

[JAYgs8163]

Needs to be bedded and floated for any consistency and not to add any stress into the action.

 

[JAYgs8163]

You can try spot bedding the lug and tang but I've never been a fan of it on wood stocks. Just make sure you wrap some electrical tape around the barrel to get the float you need/want and then bed lug and tang area. Wood stocks to me are more importantly to have full skim bedding of the action done. The tang area of a wooden stock is the weakest area and by spot bedding your putting all the torque into the lug and Tang area. You may be better off to do what you're doing now until you've got the time to skim bed the entire action. JMO

 

[Horse1]

Update - I slipped 3 pieces of plastic shims under the recoil lug. Groups the way it should. Thanks for all the great suggestions, especially this one.

Question, I want this in the field and while I don't want to leave it shimmed, wondering if I can just bed the lug or if you all would suggest picking up the chamber part of the barrel? And just a drop or so on the tang? Thanks again.

IIRC you mentioned it's a salt-wood stock. I'd use some coarse sandpaper on the proper sized dowels to get a full-float. Dollar-bill from fore end to action face type float.

At roughly the end of the chamber, I'd go one wrap at a time w/E-Tape until I felt the bbl just snug up in the channel. I'd use a molding-clay dam from the tape back to the recoil lug journal.

Next, however many layers of tape you added to the bbl, I'd use the same number of layers under the last 1/3"-1/2" of the tang to keep the action level and hopefully minimize any binding.

 

[HuntingBronco]

It's an interesting action. I thought it was more mauser like where the bottom metal mates the bottom of the receiver. I may start over and install pillars. There is a large horizontal surface rear of the lug. Hopefully that helps. Tang is definitely tight. I've done bedding on mausers and I struggled. Tonight we'll see how it looks after the "pull apart". Shooting it Saturday.

 

[txgunner00]

IIRC you mentioned it's a salt-wood stock. I'd use some coarse sandpaper on the proper sized dowels to get a full-float. Dollar-bill from fore end to action face type float.

At roughly the end of the chamber, I'd go one wrap at a time w/E-Tape until I felt the bbl just snug up in the channel. I'd use a molding-clay dam from the tape back to the recoil lug journal.

Next, however many layers of tape you added to the bbl, I'd use the same number of layers under the last 1/3"-1/2" of the tang to keep the action level and hopefully minimize any binding.

If you sand the barrel channel, make sure you seal it very well with an oil based wood finish. If the gran is left open it could contribute to warping.

 

[JAYgs8163]

It's an interesting action. I thought it was more mauser like where the bottom metal mates the bottom of the receiver. I may start over and install pillars. There is a large horizontal surface rear of the lug. Hopefully that helps. Tang is definitely tight. I've done bedding on mausers and I struggled. Tonight we'll see how it looks after the "pull apart". Shooting it Saturday.

Any update on how Saturday went and plan moving forward. Just curious…..

 

[HuntingBronco]

Update - first attempt at bedding proved to be a fail. After 5 shots, I realized the barrel was touching the stock. (***?). Stop. Redo. Attached are photos of the second attempt. (Sanded sealed the barrel channel. First attempt did not have sufficient epoxy (ProBed 2000) as it did not flow up and out like it always does. Took to the range, shot with can. Shooting all over the place - like can't even describe how bad. (Shooting new Tikka 22-250 at same time and was happy to find a load shooting 1/2". Just saying, probably not me.) Anyhow, I might put in the closet for another day now that the tikka is nearly up and running. I am thinking about putting together some reduced power loads to shoot through it and see if I can figure out the mechanical problems without burning up what remains of this barrel.) Need to have time to sort it out. (Shooting with/without can, changing scope, fiddling with torque on stock screws.)

 

[HuntingBronco]

For what it's worth, I just torqued the action screws to 40 in-lbs. Front screw turned about 1/4 turn further from where it was when I shot it yesterday and rear screw turned a little less.

 

[HuntingBronco]

Plenty of room now.

 

[JAYgs8163]

Did you shoot without the can?

 

[Horse1]

Any chance your action screws (one or both) are making contact w/your new bedding? The barreled action needs to headspace on the recoil lug, not the action screws.

If you're only getting 1/4 turn engagement of the action screws I'd be headed to the hardware store for new fancy new torx-head screws a bit longer than what you've got now.

If you "bop" the firearm w/your palm can you feel or hear the bbl make contact w/the stock since you've bedded it?

 

[HuntingBronco]

Did you shoot without the can?

Didn't have time, but agree that would have been important. Not shooting more until I change to a known good scope on and go through all other mechanicals.