Browning Muzzle Threading Woes
- Thread starter HuntingBronco
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HuntingBronco
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Update - I slipped 3 pieces of plastic shims under the recoil lug. Groups the way it should. Thanks for all the great suggestions, especially this one.
Question, I want this in the field and while I don't want to leave it shimmed, wondering if I can just bed the lug or if you all would suggest picking up the chamber part of the barrel? And just a drop or so on the tang? Thanks again.
Question, I want this in the field and while I don't want to leave it shimmed, wondering if I can just bed the lug or if you all would suggest picking up the chamber part of the barrel? And just a drop or so on the tang? Thanks again.
Needs to be bedded and floated for any consistency and not to add any stress into the action.
You can try spot bedding the lug and tang but I've never been a fan of it on wood stocks. Just make sure you wrap some electrical tape around the barrel to get the float you need/want and then bed lug and tang area. Wood stocks to me are more importantly to have full skim bedding of the action done. The tang area of a wooden stock is the weakest area and by spot bedding your putting all the torque into the lug and Tang area. You may be better off to do what you're doing now until you've got the time to skim bed the entire action. JMO
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IIRC you mentioned it's a salt-wood stock. I'd use some coarse sandpaper on the proper sized dowels to get a full-float. Dollar-bill from fore end to action face type float.
At roughly the end of the chamber, I'd go one wrap at a time w/E-Tape until I felt the bbl just snug up in the channel. I'd use a molding-clay dam from the tape back to the recoil lug journal.
Next, however many layers of tape you added to the bbl, I'd use the same number of layers under the last 1/3"-1/2" of the tang to keep the action level and hopefully minimize any binding.
