Browning A-Bolt issues

[jeff29414]

I just called the service center and they were very helpful. Walked me through the process of shipping my rifle to them. Give them a call and maybe they can check out your warranty and see if they can help you. Email is too slow most places right now.

Thanks and I will - I am in SC and there's a service center 2 hours away I was going to take it to. That's who I emailed and I haven't heard back from.
I may try calling them directly first, but if I don't get a response I'll call the Browning number.

 

[Lnewton]

Browning is not accepting walk-ins I was going to take mine to the one in Missouri but they said no.

Thanks and I will - I am in SC and there's a service center 2 hours away I was going to take it to. That's who I emailed and I haven't heard back from.
I may try calling them directly first, but if I don't get a response I'll call the Browning number.

 

[Chadp82]

Hey Chadp82, I also reload and have been having major issues (see my 2 replies above). I have done the following to try and fix the problem, but have resigned myself to not using the specific bullet causing the jamming - Federal 150 gr Power-Shok softpoints.
I tried trimming cases to 2.000 (.010 less than max), seating bullet from 2.810 down to 2.630, tightening crimp, deburring cases before, etc. All measurements are in spec according to both Speer #9 and several online listings for 308, but this 1 bullet continues to jam when trying to chamber it.
I heard mention that Brownings are known to have tight chambers, but this is rediculous - I can only figure that because the ogive is farther forward (the bullet is short and fat) it is pressing into the lands earlier and that is causing the jamming. I don't want to have to seat the bullet down to short and have other issues...

Other issue I have is cleaning the recessed open area right before the chamber - how did you get in there? I found some small pieces of barss in there I think are from the jamming - they are scratching my cases. I cleaned as well as I could, but only way I could get in there was wrapping a cleaning swatch around a bronze brush and trying to swirl it around in there - not totally effective and I think I'm going to have to make a special tool just for this gun to clean that area out. I like how it shoots, but am getting frustrated with all the special issues I'm finding with it....

What I found works for me is a shotgun swab with some solvent. I think I used a 410 gauge swab??? (Don't have it handy to look at the moment) It's snug enough to touch the outer walls and forward if you attach to a short cleaning rod. You can lay a patch over it if you choose, but I find myself fishing the patch out after as it doesn't stay attached. I have also used aerosol type solvent with the straw and a long q tip to get into the nooks and crannies but the shotgun swab seems to be a little quicker and easier. I recently picked up some birch wood chamber swabs that are a single use type item, but didn't work great.

 

[jeff29414]

What I found works for me is a shotgun swab with some solvent. I think I used a 410 gauge swab??? (Don't have it handy to look at the moment) It's snug enough to touch the outer walls and forward if you attach to a short cleaning rod. You can lay a patch over it if you choose, but I find myself fishing the patch out after as it doesn't stay attached. I have also used aerosol type solvent with the straw and a long q tip to get into the nooks and crannies but the shotgun swab seems to be a little quicker and easier. I recently picked up some birch wood chamber swabs that are a single use type item, but didn't work great.

Thanks - I have a a couple shotgun swabs and will try that (esp since I don't have a shotgun right now - smile).
That will get in the chamber good (the swatch around the large bronze brush worked well too - the brush held tight to the swab.
The area I'm having most trouble with is that area between the loading ramp and the chamber - there is that recessed area around the chamber - about 3/8 in in length and about 1/4 inch deep all around - That's where my brass pieces were collecting. I want to make sure I get them all out so they stop scratching my cases - and hopefully not the chamber either.

 

[bruce248]

WOW, I've had a Browning A Bolt ll in 7mm Rem mag & 300 Win mag. Both with their tunable BOSS Brakes. The best off the rack rifles I've ever owned. Both never performed anything less than flawlessly & were absolute tack drivers. I used mostly Federal & Nosler ammo, but I shot others as well, never a single issue. I can't have CF rifles anymore ( muzzleloaders & BP shotguns & cap n ball revolvers only ) or I would still have Browning A Bolt ll rifles in 30.06, 7mm Rem Mag & 300 Won Mag ALL with BOSS BRAKES.
Sorry to hear you're havin issues with yours. I wish I knew how to help you with them.

I have a 7mm with the same problem but you can't push it down with your hand it sticks so hard when I close the bolt with a fresh round I can move the bolt slightly in and out could that be a problem?

 

[marksman1941]

I have a 7mm with the same problem but you can't push it down with your hand it sticks so hard when I close the bolt with a fresh round I can move the bolt slightly in and out could that be a problem?

That's definitely a problem. First question as always, factory or reloaded ammo? And does it do it with multiple types of factory ammo?

 

[TXTrained]

I left it with the smith at our local range. The shot I took, I was very please with the accuracy and the BOSS/muzzle break combo was very nice for the recoil. I was just disappointed the 2nd and 3rd shells were so hard to extract. The Gun Smith at our range seemed to think it was a faulty extractor at first glance. Just curious how that would cause it to be hard to cycle?

when you get it back get you a couple boxes of different brands of ammo.I suggest Hornady match in the White & Red Box and Federal Gold Medal. Those are pretty much the gold Standard for off the shelf ammo.Good >Luck.

 

[Calvin45]

Not wanting to bash browning and know they make a lot of good stuff

But I've worked in my current position for about 7 months only…in that time we have had to send TWO browning X-bolts back because they wouldn't extract factory ammunition without a mallet. Primer and case head looked fine, just so weird all together. Haven't heard back from them yet either. Heard one more story of the same thing happening to a guy who sent it in only to have it sent back and be told there was nothing wrong with it (after he paid shipping to claim his "warranty".

Honestly now that I've worked at a gun store for not even a year I'm pretty well convinced I won't be purchasing a new production browning rifle any time soon, if ever. That's too many times for a small town store to see this.

 

[Frank in the Laurels]

I've got two stainless stalkers, a 7mm mag & .338wm..since they were first introduced decades ago...never had a single issue, best off the shelf accuracy and function of everything I own also..switch over to brass and see what happens..

 

[Calvin45]

I've got two stainless stalkers, a 7mm mag & .338wm..since they were first introduced decades ago...never had a single issue, best off tge shelf accuracy and function of everything I own also..switch over to brass and see what happens..

I believe you! This is the sort of thing I'm accustomed to hearing about browning firearms in general. But it does seem like in the last decade, maybe even just the last 5 years, something might be going on in a bad way.

 

[marksman1941]

I believe you! This is the sort of thing I'm accustomed to hearing about browning firearms in general. But it does seem like in the last decade, maybe even just the last 5 years, something might be going on in a bad way.

I haven't bought a new browning and can't speak to the quality of them. I have a stack of a bolt 1 and 2's and know their quality, but new production is a mystery to me. I will say in your support, working the gun counter exposes you to more data than most standard uses ever have access to. Back in 2012 ish I worked at a sportsman's warehouse slinging guns; definitely my favorite job ever. But we learned to avoid Taurus (which has since improved dramatically), Kimber (which has not) and Christensen. All based on the volume of sales to warranty claims we dealt with. Taurus often arrived broken, kimbers notoriously wouldn't cycle a thing, and Christensen had zero QC. Trust the data you see when you are working there, although take caution with it; 2 rifles isn't a sample size worth making a judgement call off of yet

 

[bruce248]

I have a 7mm with the same problem but you can't push it down with your hand it sticks so hard when I close the bolt with a fresh round I can move the bolt slightly in and out could that be a problem?

I polished the chamber and bought some factory amo fedral then went out and shot two of the factory and two realoads and both worked fine thanks for your coments and help

 

[bruce248]

That's definitely a problem. First question as always, factory or reloaded ammo? And does it do it with multiple types of factory ammo?

I first tryed my realoads I went and bought some fedrals to try but I had made a tool to buff my chamber and then went and shot and both had no problem thanks for your help

 

[Slaw]

Had an a bolt misfire on its own due to a defective sear. I'll never own an a bolt again.

I had the issue in a 700 with a Timney even after they "fixed it." I had to fight with them to get a whole knew trigger. But they did send me one