bore solvent

Here are a couple tests that show copper solvent results:


Test 1

Test 2

I now use KG-12 copper solvent for my centerfire guns. It removes the copper solvent. I don't use it after each outing, I only clean when accuracy goes away. Here in the desert, single digit humidity levels do not attack metal as bad as other places.
I've also tried KG-12 base on some very positive feedback and once again I followed up with BTE and removed a good amount of copper after KG-12 had stopped removing copper. You might want to test it for yourself.
 
Is it a case of another application or you stopped getting results from KG-12? Once the solution is saturated, patching out and a new application will remove more if there is any left.

One thing I have found is layers of fouling. Basically copper/carbon/copper/carbon/copper until you get to bare metal. This is more with factory barrels than after market.
 
Is it a case of another application or you stopped getting results from KG-12? Once the solution is saturated, patching out and a new application will remove more if there is any left.

One thing I have found is layers of fouling. Basically copper/carbon/copper/carbon/copper until you get to bare metal. This is more with factory barrels than after market.
It was multiple applications in a factory Sendeor barrel that was a fairly heavy fouler. I soaked it, let it sit and and patched it out and repeated the process until it was no longer removing copper, much the same way I use BTE. the last soaking lasted over an hour. After patching out the KG-12, I soaked with BTE and waited about 20 min and got a blue patch. I repeated that process several more times before getting all the copper out. On the last couple of soakings I will usually wait 40-60 min.

BTE removes both carbon and copper. In the above mentioned barrel The first patch is usually black with a little purple. Next patch a little less black with some blue-purple... next patch mostly blue with some gray-black, follow-on patches are blue until clean.
 
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I have found if you carry a package of Windex wipes, or the like, with you, you can cut a patch to run through your barrel before shooting, removes oil, dries fast, easy to carrry and doesnt leave anything behind. Plus they will clean a scope or your glasses. Have not tried BTE, use Sweets 762 it removes copper after others stop. I am going to try BTE.
 
Sounds like I may have to give the Bore Tech line a try.

Eliminator and C4 Carbon Cleaner?

Eliminator removes both copper and carbon. Bore Tech CU+2 Removes copper and Bore Tech C4 removes carbon.

Broz said in another thread that when he used CU+2, he didn't need to fire any settle in fouling shots after cleaning. I haven't tried the CU+2 yet.
 
Broz said in another thread that when he used CU+2, he didn't need to fire any settle in fouling shots after cleaning. I haven't tried the CU+2 yet.

Correct, and I have tested this with two rifles. This was the test for the .338 Lapua. Cleaned and stored without dry patching all the CU+2 out of the bore. This is how Boretech says to store the rifle to protect against rust or corrosion. Then I pulled it from the safe, sent 4 or 5 dry patches through the bore and fired one shot. Orange circle is 7".

DSC02348Small.jpg



The CU+2 is a copper solvent and is not advertised to get carbon. I just last night orderd a bottle of C-4 to use along with the CU+2 in my cleaning process. Up until now I would use Boretech Eliminator or slip 2000 for the carbon.

Jeff gun)-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Is there any advantage or disadvantage in using just Eliminator as opposed to CU+2 and C4?
 
Is there any advantage or disadvantage in using just Eliminator as opposed to CU+2 and C4?

CU+2 is designed to be tougher on copper but does not get the carbon. Eliminator gets carbon and copper. You can leave the CU+2 in your bore as a protectant and no need to oil for storage. Just dry patch it out when you are ready to use the rifle again. It is not recommended to leave elininator to dry in the barrel. The brrel should be dry patched and a lube applied for storage. I don't think it would hurt a thing just dries sticky and it would take a bit of effort to get it out after it dried. So this is why I am using CU+2 and C4 together they get both carbon and copper and with the CU+2 I don't oil the bore for storage. With this process I dont worry about burning the oil out with fouling shots and I feel I get better first round accuracy after cleaning.

Jeff
 
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