Here are some things you mght try, but first please let me point out that 3,000 psi air from a scuba valve will penetrate your skin and cause serious damage. 3,000 psi hydraulic fluid from a pinhole leak will inject the fluid into your bloodstream and can kill you quite dead. You have 60,000 plus hot gas getting past the only real seal - your case mouth, and getting all the way back to the bolt face. Rifle manufacturers have various venting schemes to mitigate this but it might escape by another path, such as back through your firing pin hole. For reference, if you get your finger next to a revolver's front cylinder it will probably get amputated.
Thus I wouldn't even dream of troubleshooting the problem by firing the weapon until the cause has been definitively established and rectified, even with storm-trooper armor on.
A few things that can be checked without firing the weapon, in my humble opinion:
First, have a look at the reamer. If the reamer somehow was chipped near the case mouth, it could have left a smaller diameter bore in the chamber there. That would keep the front of the neck from expanding, greatly increasing the pressure required to make the rest of the case neck seal. That would be very similar to what Hugnot experienced in post 10. Wear in that area would also make the chamber conical with similar results. A micrometer might tell you something if so.
Another thing that might be going on is somehow a groove or crevice is running from the case mouth area to the shoulder in the chamber. Even a very shallow groove would prevent the neck from sealing into the chamber along that line.
One cause might be that the reamer was stopped in the process of cutting the chamber. Imagine a cheap blade type pencil sharpener - you turn the pencil and it shaves off wood. If you suddenly stop turning it it will leave part of the wood uncut. Your reamer could do the same thing, and subsequent polishing would only hide the issue from view.
There are a lot of other ways this type of groove could be produced, some quite technical in nature. If your bbl is made from 416R stainless then it has sulfur added to make it more machinable. The sulfur creates weak spots that help break the chips whilst turning, rather than one continuous chip. Carbides or other non-metallic inclusions, porosity, laps and seams in the rolled metal could result in the same type of phenomenon.
So how to test for this?
One way would be to solvent clean the cases you already fired and very carefully check for longitudinal bulges, possibly with a dial indicator on a lathe. Another would be to make a chamber cast and measure it carefully, possibly with a dial indicator. A borescope might see something as well, though you might need to use dye penetrant to see a microscopic crack.