best full length sizing die 7mm-08
- Thread starter M_freeman
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
backwoods83
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 3,497
For a 7mm08 a small base circle fl die is your best bet for the most consistent on the 308 based cases.
right now I have the Lee Collet neck die. I realize after while I'll need to FL the case, I'll look at that. I looked all over the Redding website and couldn't find a "body only" die? Do you mean a trim die that is made for a file on top so you can file the necks that are too long? Kraky, any way you could post a link to the exact die you mean
Right here it is: Search results for: redding body die 7mm08
jimbires
Well-Known Member
I bought a redding competition bushing neck die set . I use the body die from that set with the Lee neck collet die . this works so well I have not tried the bushing die yet . Jim
boomtube
Well-Known Member
I've been reloading for a very long time. Used and own a large number of sizing dies from more than a dozen makers and have found NO average effective difference in the effect of a sizer by brand. As you note, they all do the same thing so brand is no quarantee of anything but price and external appearance.
You are correct that all brands of die's inside dimensions are normally cut to SAAMI specifications. That's a range of a very few thousants and anything within the range is fully as 'in spec' as any other, meaning there no specific dimensions they aim for. All die makers use SAAMI spec FL die reamers so there is as much average variation between size dies made by the same maker as there is between makers. (And there's less difference in the end effect of most seaters by brand than many seem to think.)
A small base die is usually only 2 or 3 thou smaller in the base area. In a metal to metal fit that much can be important but for bolt rifles it's rarely helpful and it's not needed nearly so often as is commonly assumed for autoloaders.
Many of us like Lee's collet neck die better than any others because of it's design principal. We usually get the straightest possible sized necks of the proper inside diameter to obtain the least bullet run-out possible with our cases and methods and we don't have to fiddle with assorted bushings to get it. But no neck die alone is going to do the job; you WILL need either and FL die OR a body die to use with the neck die.
This isn't as satisfying as swearing that a specific brand and type is better than all others but it's true; pick something that looks good and try it, it will likely do very well. Bottom line, what we get with any brand of conventional dies, perhaps especially for FL sizers, is mostly luck of the draw.
You are correct that all brands of die's inside dimensions are normally cut to SAAMI specifications. That's a range of a very few thousants and anything within the range is fully as 'in spec' as any other, meaning there no specific dimensions they aim for. All die makers use SAAMI spec FL die reamers so there is as much average variation between size dies made by the same maker as there is between makers. (And there's less difference in the end effect of most seaters by brand than many seem to think.)
A small base die is usually only 2 or 3 thou smaller in the base area. In a metal to metal fit that much can be important but for bolt rifles it's rarely helpful and it's not needed nearly so often as is commonly assumed for autoloaders.
Many of us like Lee's collet neck die better than any others because of it's design principal. We usually get the straightest possible sized necks of the proper inside diameter to obtain the least bullet run-out possible with our cases and methods and we don't have to fiddle with assorted bushings to get it. But no neck die alone is going to do the job; you WILL need either and FL die OR a body die to use with the neck die.
This isn't as satisfying as swearing that a specific brand and type is better than all others but it's true; pick something that looks good and try it, it will likely do very well. Bottom line, what we get with any brand of conventional dies, perhaps especially for FL sizers, is mostly luck of the draw.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
I know it's taking you from slam bam fire another man. But you either want the best setup, or it doesn't really matter. The best setup matches YOUR chamber, and counters what YOUR load does to brass.
What are the odds a finding such a die off the shelf?
I agree with mentioned, and for the Redding body die, you can send it and a few fully fireformed cases to JLC for custom sizing at a very low cost.
Full-Length Bushing Dies and Die Conversions
I also suggest neck expansion prior to bullet seating, regardless of collet or bushing neck sizing. IMO the best expansion is provided by a die Sinclair offers: Sinclair Generation II Expander Dies - Sinclair Intl
This pushes thickness variance outward and it's an extra action to uniform forces, for better bullet seating.
What are the odds a finding such a die off the shelf?
I agree with mentioned, and for the Redding body die, you can send it and a few fully fireformed cases to JLC for custom sizing at a very low cost.
Full-Length Bushing Dies and Die Conversions
I also suggest neck expansion prior to bullet seating, regardless of collet or bushing neck sizing. IMO the best expansion is provided by a die Sinclair offers: Sinclair Generation II Expander Dies - Sinclair Intl
This pushes thickness variance outward and it's an extra action to uniform forces, for better bullet seating.
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
all full length dies are pretty much the same except for the Forster, and it is still similar. The real difference is in where they place the sizing ball on the stem. I use pretty much all the brands, and the results are pretty much the same, but for the Forster. I think it does better neck and shoulder junctions for me.
I have the Lee Collet dies sitting in the plastic container. Tried them two or three times and still don't think much of them. The Hornaday dies are finished very nicely, but their stem setup is junk on a good day. The Reddings are very nicely finished and about 33% over priced for what you get. Have not bought an RCBS die set in a while, but still use a couple, and they are better than the Hornaday, and probably almost as good as the Redding. I think that Redding, Lee, and Forster are the only threaded dies still made in the USA (is C&H still in business?). If you just have to have the micrometer head, then the Redding or Forster are the better of the bunch (seaters now), and the Forster seems to have about 1/3rd of the backlash in the head than the Redding.
Being as your probably loading in a factory cut chamber, most of the better dies will suit your needs well. But if I were buying a new die set right now it would be a Forster or a Redding set 98% of the time. The Forster seater is the best period. But both full length dies do their intended job well. I just happen to think the raised sizing ball does a better and more accurate job.
gary
I have the Lee Collet dies sitting in the plastic container. Tried them two or three times and still don't think much of them. The Hornaday dies are finished very nicely, but their stem setup is junk on a good day. The Reddings are very nicely finished and about 33% over priced for what you get. Have not bought an RCBS die set in a while, but still use a couple, and they are better than the Hornaday, and probably almost as good as the Redding. I think that Redding, Lee, and Forster are the only threaded dies still made in the USA (is C&H still in business?). If you just have to have the micrometer head, then the Redding or Forster are the better of the bunch (seaters now), and the Forster seems to have about 1/3rd of the backlash in the head than the Redding.
Being as your probably loading in a factory cut chamber, most of the better dies will suit your needs well. But if I were buying a new die set right now it would be a Forster or a Redding set 98% of the time. The Forster seater is the best period. But both full length dies do their intended job well. I just happen to think the raised sizing ball does a better and more accurate job.
gary
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Gary, why do you imply that a 'factory cut chamber' deserves any rabbit pulled from a hat?
It don't make any difference who cuts the chamber, with what reamer, anyone should get the best fitting die for the brass they're making with it. That's what you're suppose to be doing with reloading -making ammo for YOUR gun.
And as far as seaters, I don't believe any screwed into a press can seat as precisely as Wilson inlines. I dial em in and hit my numbers everytime. Not +/- a thou,, EXACTLY.
I know, because it's important enough to verify.
It don't make any difference who cuts the chamber, with what reamer, anyone should get the best fitting die for the brass they're making with it. That's what you're suppose to be doing with reloading -making ammo for YOUR gun.
And as far as seaters, I don't believe any screwed into a press can seat as precisely as Wilson inlines. I dial em in and hit my numbers everytime. Not +/- a thou,, EXACTLY.
I know, because it's important enough to verify.
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
I think a factory chamber is a chamber made to do all sorts of work, while the same custom cut chamber will be throated for a particular group of bullets. Add to this the fact that they also usually cut the necks on the large size (diameter), and usually way too long in the neck length. Now I have had a couple that seemed to come right at the bottom sizes of the groups, but most are on the large size. And example woud be a 6mm chamber throated for 70 to 80 grain bullets verses one that is throated to accept all sizes. In otherwords a "one size fits all."
gary
boomtube
Well-Known Member
There is a whale of a lot more to a good seating die than a precise OAL, whether taken at meplat or ogive. And it takes a whale of a lot better grade of bullets than common commercial stuff done on an assortment of machines to be dead on, +/- nothing, with an OAL.
