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Berger Meplats - Improved Uniformity

I can't speak for Paul, but IMO a little does go a long way. That is why in most cases I would prefer .040" over .050" for my shooting ranges. The reason a little goes a long way is that there are two dynamics going on. You are not only getting a larger diameter hole (hydraulic action) but you are also thinning the jacket making it easier to peel. Also, as was mentioned earlier, it is important to remember that most of these jackets, whether 264" or .338" are within a very few thou of being the same thickness. When you squeeze a .338 down to say a .070" meplat, you are condensing a lot more material into the same area. The .338's are more forgiving when they don't expand simply because of the mass and frontal area so unless the bullet is recovered, it is difficult to say sometimes whether expansion occured or the large hole was a result of tumbling, etc. One thing is for sure, when a long nosed hollow point does not expand, the tips usually bend one way or the other, and they tumble which can cause a lot of damage.....Rich
 
Paul, you have done way more of this than I. I basically just check them to be clear of debris and open. Would you say it is fair to say a little goes "a long way" as far as making a larger hole in general? Seems to me a 50 to 75% dia increase would exhibit big changes?

Jeff

Jeff,
I don't increase the outer diameter of the meplat (tip diameter) a tremendous amount (0.065" to 0.070" OD). But using the hollow-pointing tool from Kevin Cram, I do open up the inner ID of the meplats to near the full OD. I try not to leave a paper thin leading edge, primarily so the leading edge isn't easily damaged/burred during handling, carry, & loading, prior to shooting the bullets.

I don't shoot enough game animals to generate extensive first hand experiences in any short time period. The first game animal I shot with the 210gr VLD from a .300 Win Mag was a caribou at 500-530yds. My clear impression was that the bullets opened up earlier upon impact than an unadulterated factory bullet. Yet both bullets fully penetrated and exited the far side rib cage. All in all, I was satisfied.

Next victims were two Dall sheep in following years, in the 300-350yd range. Fairly high impact velocity. Bullet expansion didn't seem overly aggressive on the entry side of these two animals. Full penetration and good exit wound channel. Not explosive by any means. Again, overall the bullet wound channel and bullet performance was very satisfactory.

I shoot into the ribs and out the ribs, and a bullet that expands a bit aggressively can only damage some rib meat. And I favor a LRH bullet that maximizes the odds of expansion on long range, slower velocity hits. So I open up the ID of the meplat to ~0.055" to 0.060". The hole drilled into the tips with the Kevin Cram tool is cone shaped. So far, so good.

And as mentioned earlier, I don't use these LRH bullets to shoot animals less than ~250-300yds. I'll typically be using Speer Trophy Bonded Bear Claws, Nosler Accubonds, Barnes TTSX, Swift A-Frame style bullets for game up closer - from the muzzle to ~275 yds.
 
You bet Rich, and for what it's worth on the impacts in the 1700's with the 215's I had jacket material in the wound channel. Probably when the tip blew I would say.

Thanks Paul,

Jeff
 
All I am looking to do is make sure there are no obstructions in the cavity and uniforming the entrance at the tip. Can I use the same diameter drill bit for the 140 and 180 hybrids? I have not shot any Berger bullets at game, so am going off others experiences that I trust.
 
Good thread!
I'm hoping that more will join in and share the evidence they have on the performance with game using the L/R 338s, I'm hoping that mine wasn't just a fluke.

Here's mine; this year I got to see what my "EDGE" would do hitting a moose in close using a 300grn otm, something I was apprehensive about because of the high speed. I got the edge because we continually see moose on distant ridges to far for the 300 win mag.

The moose was quarting slightly looking almost straight at my son at about 250yrds. When he pulled the trigger the moose dropped like a rock! We have killed a lot of moose in the the 30+ years living here in Alaska and never seen one go down like that, even with a perfect neck shot using a 300 win.

The bullet hit the heaviest part of the rib cage bone between the neck and shoulder and made a cleane golf ball size hole all the way back to the far side kidney. When we found the bullet 80% of the lead was gone and about 90% of the jacket was shredded into three even parts still in one piece.
Tom

Here are three photos of the berger 300gr otm used to kill the moose I spoke of, I thought someone might be interested.

I'd like to ask those of you who have some experience with this bullet, what should be expected when hitting large game in close say @ 200 yrds, energy about 4700 lbs (with out the modifications)

I was concerned that it would penatrate about 2-3 inches and then begin to jelly everything, even if it just hit muscle?

Thanks,
Tom
 

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All I am looking to do is make sure there are no obstructions in the cavity and uniforming the entrance at the tip. Can I use the same diameter drill bit for the 140 and 180 hybrids? I have not shot any Berger bullets at game, so am going off others experiences that I trust.

I haven't done 180's, but my guess is yes....Rich
 
Here are three photos of the Berger 300gr otm used to kill the moose I spoke of, I thought someone might be interested.

Thanks,
Tom

Based on your description of the range, animal profile, and point of impact on the moose, I like the pictures of that bullet. I can understand why he dropped pronto, based on the depth of penetration obtained. It helps to start out with 300gr of bullet weight for moose, when using a fragmenting lead core jacketed bullet.
 
Here are three photos of the berger 300gr otm used to kill the moose I spoke of, I thought someone might be interested.

I'd like to ask those of you who have some experience with this bullet, what should be expected when hitting large game in close say @ 200 yrds, energy about 4700 lbs (with out the modifications)

I was concerned that it would penatrate about 2-3 inches and then begin to jelly everything, even if it just hit muscle?

Thanks,
Tom
I havent done any mods to my OTM's.With the rifle being larger than what I really need I feel confident shooting rifle.My 2 closest shots where 6 pt bull behinds alder bush with grapfruit shooting window maybe 50 yrd.Shot was high in ribs blood trail was unreal,so was hole.Moose shot was similar, had small maple like bush,stood up and looked at me after 45min with wind switch, say shot was 60 yrd.Elk ran himself out of blood went maybe 100 yrd then off 20 ft cliff.Moose went 5 yrd.
 
Great discussion everyone. Here is the portion of a drill chart to help anyone looking for small drill sizes:


80 = .0135
79 = .0145
1/64 = .0156
78 = .016
77 = .018
76 = .020
75 = .021
74 = .0225
73 = .024
72 = .025
71 = .026
70 = .028
69 = .0292
68 = .031
1/32 = .0313
67 = .032
66 = .033
65 = .035
64 = .036
63 = .037
62 = .038
61 = .039
60 = .040
59 = .041
58 = .042
57 = .043
56 = .0465
3/64 = .0469
55 = .052
 
Just re-read this Thread (link below). Some expansion testing completed by a member in the fall of 2014 that confirms the value in drilling the tips and annealing the Sierra Match King 350gr .375 bullets. Thought the readers might enjoy, since this thread progressed into drilling the tips of pointy tipped lead core jacketed bullets.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f19/375-drilled-annealed-350-grain-smk-141654/
 
You guys who trim/ uniform,

Are you indeed seeing 2%-5% decrease in BC.

Which program Ballistic calculator if any are you guys using for initial drop/drift estimations?

I start with JBM and dont know if I'm able to correct the BC value.
 
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