Bedding

[Nick@Straight-Jacket]

we use Brownells Steel Bed at the shop. Won't shrink, or pick up moisture and machines nicely for a clean inlet.

 

[25WSM]

As a master gunsmith I have bedded 100s of stocks through the yrs and have used just about every one. The one I tried and never quit using is the score-hi product. The smoothness of it when mixing and application is spot on. If you can butter toast you can lay this in a stock. It stays put and if you need it a little thicker it comes with powder to stiffen it up. Comes with the best release agent I have used. Equal to clear kiwi. Which is amazing. Now for a bonus. It comes in side by side tubes for dispensing from an epoxy gun. No more digging it out of the container with pop sticks trying to get it even. Squeeze the gun,stir and bed. I won't use any thing else. The Richard video is a real good one I learned from it myself. Master gunsmiths don't know everything and I still learn everyday something new from this site. The only difference between the way Richard does it And myself is I set up my pillers a different way and set them in epoxy to cure stress free. Once the pillers are set my receiver is epoxied in just sitting on the tops of them. The receiver only touches the top of the pillers and nothing more. It can not touch the stock in any way. It has to suspend in epoxy. Best tip I can give you guys is to make sure your action has lots of wiggle room. The biggest mistake I see is guys who are bedding their own stock and they scrape away some finish in the stock and put the epoxy in. Then put the action in. Then squeeze the action down in there with the action screws. Clean up all the squish out and let it cure. Everything looks perfect. Got that fits like a glove look. Happiness enough to go around. Guys don't do that. Please don't. You may get lucky 1 in 10 times but that won't work for most jobs. It will how ever work for going over An aluminum block. These typically have slop and a skim coat helps. But I still only use that rear screw and no torque to hold the Action in. Have fun.
Shep

 

[Philip J Theodhor]

I don't know if there is such a thing as "the best" when it comes to bedding compound but all of mine have been bed with marine-tex and I know a lot of gunsmiths use it. I'm sure there are other materials that work well also, but marine-tex is one of the most popular bedding compounds.

Brownells sells the complete glass bedding compound as well as the color matching dye ( if you are annal about the glass to stock color match) in one complete package including your release agent measuring and mixing cups It works very well , sets up and cure without any shrinkage. Just follow the supplied instructions and you won't go wrong. I have used Brownells Accu -glass bedding with very pleasing results several times. Good Luck

 

[KyCarl]

 

[GregH118]

Do you need to bed a action if you have aluminum pillars

 

[Jud96]

As a master gunsmith I have bedded 100s of stocks through the yrs and have used just about every one. The one I tried and never quit using is the score-hi product. The smoothness of it when mixing and application is spot on. If you can butter toast you can lay this in a stock. It stays put and if you need it a little thicker it comes with powder to stiffen it up. Comes with the best release agent I have used. Equal to clear kiwi. Which is amazing. Now for a bonus. It comes in side by side tubes for dispensing from an epoxy gun. No more digging it out of the container with pop sticks trying to get it even. Squeeze the gun,stir and bed. I won't use any thing else. The Richard video is a real good one I learned from it myself. Master gunsmiths don't know everything and I still learn everyday something new from this site. The only difference between the way Richard does it And myself is I set up my pillers a different way and set them in epoxy to cure stress free. Once the pillers are set my receiver is epoxied in just sitting on the tops of them. The receiver only touches the top of the pillers and nothing more. It can not touch the stock in any way. It has to suspend in epoxy. Best tip I can give you guys is to make sure your action has lots of wiggle room. The biggest mistake I see is guys who are bedding their own stock and they scrape away some finish in the stock and put the epoxy in. Then put the action in. Then squeeze the action down in there with the action screws. Clean up all the squish out and let it cure. Everything looks perfect. Got that fits like a glove look. Happiness enough to go around. Guys don't do that. Please don't. You may get lucky 1 in 10 times but that won't work for most jobs. It will how ever work for going over An aluminum block. These typically have slop and a skim coat helps. But I still only use that rear screw and no torque to hold the Action in. Have fun.
Shep

Can you explain?

 

[MOOSE39465]

Do you need to bed a action if you have aluminum pillars

I'm not a gunsmith but I can answer this question. The answer is yes most definitely.

 

[GregH118]

I have a Manners stock that has aluminum pillars do I need to bed the action or is tightening the action to the pillars good enough

 

[GregH118]

Also I have a Hawkins precision dbm my mag will not fit in all the way it hits in the front of mag will not go up far enough do I notch the mag a little or can I dremel the piece of steel it is hitting in bottom of the action

 

[MOOSE39465]

I have a Manners stock that has aluminum pillars do I need to bed the action or is tightening the action to the pillars good enough

You will benefit if you bed the action. Just think about it for a minute. The more contact you have between the the stock and action the more repeatable you will be. You will eliminate movement and that generates repeatable accuracy. Might not be much but every little bit helps

 

[jimbires]

the pics of my bedding job in post #6 are pics of a aluminum bedding block stock . I feel everything can benefit from a good bedding job .

 

[Mram10us]

Do you need to bed a action if you have aluminum pillars

"Need"? That is up to you but I'd say about 99% of us would do it to guarantee a stress free environment for the action when screwed to the stock. I'd do a glue in if I could get away with it on my Rem 700s

 

[25WSM]

I've done glue ins on several br actions including 2 for myself and I really didn't see any advantage over just glass bedded. I still have one glue in on my 1000 yd gun. One advantage of not gluing it in is you can help tune your rifle with the action screws. The torque you put on the screws will change your group size.
Shep

 

[Mram10us]

I've done glue ins on several br actions including 2 for myself and I really didn't see any advantage over just glass bedded. I still have one glue in on my 1000 yd gun. One advantage of not gluing it in is you can help tune your rifle with the action screws. The torque you put on the screws will change your group size.
Shep

I've never tried to tune my rifle with the action screws. I'd love to see a video or pics of the targets with x amount of torque applied