Bedding using only action,barrel weight

[Coues110]

Ok, I'm not a gunsmith, but do have fun doing minor improvements to firearms...I have rebarreled Savage's, bedded Rem. 700's, Savages, etc. I got a super deal on a Savage 12 LRVP used and have rebarreled the action to 6mm Norma Dasher. The stock is the HS with the aluminum bedding block. The recoil lug is not bedded, and the action can slide a bit (3/32") back and forward. Thinking about skim bedding the action, and full bedding the recoil lug. Is there any reason not to, or am I wasting time and Devcon doing this. I do make sure the action/recoil lug is seated against the bedding block when I assemble the rifle, but the bedding would remove any movement. The guy's here have a lot of knowledge, so I ask....rsbhunter

If it shoots good enough now for your needs leave it alone. The only thing bad I have heard about on aluminum bedding block stocks are that they polish loose after time and accuracy possibly deteriorates. My HS Precision stock on my 30-06 is a half MOA shooter so far with no bedding after about 250 rnds. That is better than I need for my hunting requirements. I have full length bedded 3 HS Precision stocks Remington 700s with varying results, none bad. Bedding has been an OCD thing with me so good luck in deciding.

 

[rsbhunter]

Yeah, ocd is my hobby.....have it setting up now...never been a "there's always tomorrow" kind of guy. Besides, it's shooting .4-.5 6 shot groups now, but I had the Devcon, wax, and time, so it's done..like you, I've never had a bedding job make a rifle shoot worse, and some made no difference ......Will see what happens with this one...pics are groups shot to form brass to chamber and break in barrel....getting some Bergers to dial it in...

 

[ntsqd]

Not to be "that guy" , but this statement is totally false. I was told the same thing. "You have to tape the sides and front!" I have bedded the lug numerous ways and they all shoot. Just my experience.

The reason that the guy who got me started on bedding told me for a single layer of electrical tape (his preference) on the bottom, sides, & front face of the recoil lug was to provide enough room in the bedding to allow the recoil lug to repeatedly come OUT of the bedding w/o damaging it. Was not an accuracy issue, it was a serviceability issue.

It was he who also got me started using Devcon AL putty and not the commonly talked about steel putty. Look at my previous posts about this and you'll see why I continue to follow his advice.

 

[rsbhunter]

Always use tape on the recoil lug for clearance, used 2 layers on the barrel nut. Good thing is it's a single shot target action, and the trigger is adjusted , so, in the off chance I can't (kidding) get it apart, I'm gonna claim I glued it in like the pro's do.....I have no fear of separating it....I own angle grinder, welder, and a saws all , AND a bfh...I'm actually looking for it to come out good...I will keep you all posted. Thanks for all the help and advice...rsbhunter

 

[25WSM]

The tape on the recoil lug is for clearence to let the gun come apart easier. It doesn't matter if the whole lug touches or not. I don't tape any of my recoil lugs but I scrape all the bedding away from the bottom. I like bedding on the sides of my 700 recoil lugs. No bedding in front of lugs for me either. I free float the entire barrel. And a 700 action is plenty strong to hold a heavy varmint barrel out there without support.
Shep

 

[rsbhunter]

Pulled it apart around 9:00 tonight, checked the left over mix and it had completely set up. Came apart nicely, no beating, cussing,etc. The Kiwi (2 coats) worked awesome....no major gobs anywhere, just need to clean out the front action screw hole, but I am extremely happy with it ....now just need to order some bullets, load up and go....again, appreciate your help and input....rsbhunter

 

[25WSM]

The kiwi paste only needs one coat let to dry and polished all off. Use a qtip to get it in nooks and crannies. A clean qtip will polish those areas also. S loaded qtip swirled in the action screw hole will keep screw from sticking and bit of modeling clay will fill the front hole that's not needed for a screw at all. To unplug the screw hole you have filled with epoxy now just cut it flush with a razor knife to the action and Dremel a little dish into the epoxy and push the action screw into it and twist hard. Once it grabs a tread it will push the whole bunch right out by turning the screw. You can soften the epoxy slightly with a torch. Gets soft real fast with some heat. One nice benefit to using kiwi is you just leave the metal waxed when you put the gun back together. Wax And polish you bolt body and see how slick your bolt runs too. One can of kiki last for yrs.
Shep

 

[DynamicAVP]

Pulled it apart around 9:00 tonight, checked the left over mix and it had completely set up. Came apart nicely, no beating, cussing,etc. The Kiwi (2 coats) worked awesome....no major gobs anywhere, just need to clean out the front action screw hole, but I am extremely happy with it ....now just need to order some bullets, load up and go....again, appreciate your help and input....rsbhunter

Pics man, show some pics!

 

[DynamicAVP]

I did a full length bed job on my savage 26 nosler build. I'm no savage expert though. Read about how you shouldn't bed the tang area, but after removing everything from the action I decide it made more sense to me to do it all. Worked for me. I can post pics later if it helps. Again, no savage expert. I'll even post some 300 yard targets with off the shelf ammo to show results of full bedding on accuracy

I want to see some pics of your bedding job as well please.

 

[rsbhunter]

Not cleaned up yet, getting started in a while, need to remove the excess in front of the lug, and the rear of the bedding block, but it will work for what I'm doing with it...rsbhunter

 

[Mram10us]

The reason that the guy who got me started on bedding told me for a single layer of electrical tape (his preference) on the bottom, sides, & front face of the recoil lug was to provide enough room in the bedding to allow the recoil lug to repeatedly come OUT of the bedding w/o damaging it. Was not an accuracy issue, it was a serviceability issue.

It was he who also got me started using Devcon AL putty and not the commonly talked about steel putty. Look at my previous posts about this and you'll see why I continue to follow his advice.

I was pointing out the "you don't want it touching" comment. Don't want new guys thinking it's true. A technique for sure, but it will still come out if needed without harming the bedding.

 

[rsbhunter]

I was reading last night on the different Devcon types, steel, aluminum, titanium,. The steel has the lowest shrinkage % , which may not make a difference at all, but I still like to get as close as possible. But there again, a lot of different materials have been used with great success. That's the great thing about it, we have a great selection of products and a myriad of methods to choose from....rsbhunter

 

[Mram10us]

It seems the bungee/electrical tape would help with the slight shrinkage while drying. I haven't tested though, so just my thought process

 

[rsbhunter]

I would think it would depend the the compressive properties of the bedding material, and the point or rate of shrinkage. It would also depend on the amount of force that the method of applying force is used. But, there again, all methods seem to work to a varying degree....and , as hobby shooters, we will keep searching for the "perfect" material and method...rsbhunter