Bedding something with a bedding block?

Jay,

My dad just got a Choate Varminter stock for his 6.5wsm, aluminum V-Block type too. He already bedded it so I won't get any before and after results on this one. He did get very obvious .050" to .070" contact lines on the block front and rear before ever firing it too. I doubt you'd ever crush aluminum from the torquing the gaurd screws and not see a mark on it, it's too soft, even though it only compresses and or spreads apart minutely... it will.

The flexing factory recoil lug will will no doubt add to the marking too. Put a spot of epoxy on each contact area, torque down and let bond up good. Go fire it and I'd bet it would break loose on the first fireing.

My dad fully bedded each block, still contacting each side but full on the bottoms. His impacts did not shift at all when getting hot while we were shooting groups at 200 yards yesterday, it was very, very stable and accurate.
 
Brent,
Did your dad roughen up the aluminum or drill any holes in it so the bedding compound would stick better? I'm getting ready to bed my CUV for my new 6.5/284 and was wondering how well the bedding would stick to the aluminum.
Wayne
 
Wayne,
he scratched the aluminum up with a small "fine" flat file, no holes drilled though. All he bedded was front and rear blocks with Acraglass. It held fine, he had it out forming loads 14-16 hrs later too, he wouldn't wait any longer.
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It was fine when he pulled it apart afterward, hadn't come loose anyway. He had to rebed the scope base today, he had used a Farrell 20 MOA base with the NF 8-32 and it was bottomed out and zeroed at 500 yards. Shooting the 140gn Berger in the 6.5wsm at 3200 fps he had to use the 2nd bar up ( 4 moa hold under) to hit 2" high at 200 yards. The NP-R2 to the rescue! The 123gn Scenar at 3417 fps was 1" low using the 3rd bar, 6 moa hold under too. The 123 ballistically out performed the 140 with ease, even at 1000 yards which was a shock, the .574 BC ain't nothin to sneeze at with those speeds either!
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