Bedding in front of the recoil lug?

[j_unzicker]

Thanks for the advice guys. I did install pillars and I did try varying loads. Today I varried torque on the action crews and had a change in groups from primarily horizontal to virtical string. That sounds like there is a pressure point somewhere in the bed?

 

[j_unzicker]

Took apart the rifle today...noticed some slight wear or rub marks on the action where it connects with my pillar. Is it possible that my main contact is just on the pillars and not on the glass? When connected the pillars to the action, I made sure to only hand tighten them until they were snug rocking them back and forth while tightening them until they stopped rocking. When I set the receive into the stock with the bedding material, I only tightened it until snug with the hand screws and then backed out of about 1/10th of a turn.
So, I thought that I was doing it right, but could the be a pressure point issue here? I guess it wouldn't hurt to shave off the bedding around the lug and pillars and reapply bedding making sure not to over tighten.
Am I right in understanding that you want the pillars to be just set under the level of the glass so that the action sits on the glass and not the pillars?
I'm pretty sure that you want the trigger guard to be contacting the pillars on the bottom side, but what about the action and tang?
Any help with those thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Edd]

I'm not a gunsmith and have never bedded a stock.

If I were to bed one, I would want the pillars snuggly tightened against the action and then I would place the action with pillars attached into the bedding material.

 

[j_unzicker]

Yeah...that's what I did wrong. Upon closer look. What I thought was rub marks on the action at the pillars was my loc-tite pooled inbetween the action and the pillars. I think I followed the instructions for a "recess" pillar bed job. However, a lot of posts I have read on the Rem 700 have suggested a "flush" or even somewhat "floated" pillar bed job (where the action only sits on the pillars and does not touch the bedding. The thought is that pulling the action down on the bedding causes a stress point in the space between the action and the pillar. I was instructed to only slightly snug the pillars onto the action before inserting into the stock with the bedding material. It sounds like I should have really tighted them down onto the action so that they were making good contact.
Sand down some of the bedding to bring the pillars in full contact with the action, or remove some of the bedding and rebed?
I'm learning more than I ever wanted to on this job. lol.

 

[J E Custom]

Yeah...that's what I did wrong. Upon closer look. What I thought was rub marks on the action at the pillars was my loc-tite pooled inbetween the action and the pillars. I think I followed the instructions for a "recess" pillar bed job. However, a lot of posts I have read on the Rem 700 have suggested a "flush" or even somewhat "floated" pillar bed job (where the action only sits on the pillars and does not touch the bedding. The thought is that pulling the action down on the bedding causes a stress point in the space between the action and the pillar. I was instructed to only slightly snug the pillars onto the action before inserting into the stock with the bedding material. It sounds like I should have really tighted them down onto the action so that they were making good contact.
Sand down some of the bedding to bring the pillars in full contact with the action, or remove some of the bedding and rebed?
I'm learning more than I ever wanted to on this job. lol.

What you want is a action, to pillar, to floor metal fit. Before bedding then when the bedding is
applied use just enough clamping to squeeze the excess bedding out allowing the action to contact the pillars.

I use spring clamps (They look like big jumper cable clamps) some use surgical tubing. this will give you a stress free bedding job. I use longer action screws with the heads turned down with 1 heat
shrink tubing for guides only. Do not use action screws to tighten action down in bedding.

The action screws will add flex/stress to the action.

When bedding has cured I remove the screws without removing the action and leave the clamps and action in the stock for 24 Hours before removing.

The main reason for having a stress free, metal to metal to metal bedding job is to be able to torque
to required In/lbs without any changes and no compression of stock materials (Any stock).

Bedding is actually a very simple job once you have a good trouble free method.

J E CUSTOM

 

[j_unzicker]

I think that's what I was trying to do except my kit didn't instruct the use of tubing. Just hand screws that pull the floor plate to the stock. (Installing the pillars to the action first and then bedding in one step). But I must not have installed the pillars tight enough to the action because when bedding some leaked inbetween the pillar and action. Do I have to start all over or can I sand the bedding to bring the level of the pillars up above the bedding surface?

 

[J E Custom]

I think that's what I was trying to do except my kit didn't instruct the use of tubing. Just hand screws that pull the floor plate to the stock. (Installing the pillars to the action first and then bedding in one step). But I must not have installed the pillars tight enough to the action because when bedding some leaked inbetween the pillar and action. Do I have to start all over or can I sand the bedding to bring the level of the pillars up above the bedding surface?

I normally install the pillars in the stock first and test the fit before applying the bedding.

And yes you can remove some of the bedding to allow the action to set on the pillars.

If all surfaces are free from the action you can apply the bedding compound and clamp it
down. Be sure and remove any release agent from the surface before bedding.

Unless the pillar is contoured to match the action there may be some bedding compound
get between the action and the pillar. If it does dont remove it. (It is so thin it will not
compress enough to matter.

J E CUSTOM

J E CUSTOM

 

[WapitiBob]

"What you want is a action, to pillar, to floor metal fit."
This is how I bedded mine. The stock and bedding just replaced the air around the metal parts.