Basics of Bedding, and other stuff...

[.264 win mag]

Well said MR.A. The first time I trid to bed a stock, I had a guy looking over my shoulder that was a NRA master shooter. It turned out well, and I am thankdul for that relation ship. Not every shooter can start out knowing all little tricks.

 

[Brien]

for devcon water and a cue tip cleans up very easy.. if you get it in the checkering use a toothbrush with water... same goes for marine tex or bisonite ;only with kroil on a cue tip or toothbrush
Brien

 

[bcd]

I have only bedded three as of yet, all three were Remington 700 bdl custom deluxe rifles (right much checkering and engraving.) I asked around before I did my first and was reccomended to use EP grease (grease gun tubes), it is fairly cheap, and cleans up easily. I also used modeling clay from Wal-mart toy department, less than five dollars for a pretty good amount, and masked off with painter's tape (sticks good but will not bond like masking tape or duck tape).

 

[Guest]

Have any of you tried bedding a tikka? The action is flat bottom and the lug (if you can call it that) is a thick washer like thing that is part of the action and fits into a steel plate on the synthic stock. Where do or don't you put the bedding on one of these?
Harv

 

[Guest]

Ok, so is the tikka that good that no one has needed to bed one or are they that bad that no one wants too, or too hard to do?

 

[Ian M]

Harv,
I have never seen a Tikka bedded, sorry but no info. Matter of fact I have seen a lot of Tikka including the T3's at the range and nobody ever talks about bedding them.
Good luck, maybe someone here has info or maybe Tikkas don't never need bedding.

 

[Glock119]

[ QUOTE ]
for devcon water and a cue tip cleans up very easy.. if you get it in the checkering use a toothbrush with water... same goes for marine tex or bisonite ;only with kroil on a cue tip or toothbrush
Brien

[/ QUOTE ]

OK I'll bite, what is "kroil" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

thanks,
Ben

 

[Brien]

Kroil oil... it comes in an orange can... many br shooters use it religiously... get it at midway,sinclairs andmany other shooting supply stores... (spellin may not be correct)

 

[gonehuntingagain]

[ QUOTE ]
My rifle stock has an aluminum bedding block, isn't that enough?<BR>A: Not a chance. The bedding block is CNC'd to a set of specs (CNC is a nifty term for machined). The action is supposed to match those dimensions but it just plain doesn't. Many reasons, trust me, the action does not fit exactly into the bedding block. Put a thin layer of bedding compound between them and they will fit perfectly

[/ QUOTE ]

I am looking to bed my Remington 700VSLH stock and have a couple of questions. Other than the recoil lug and a thin layer by the front screw, I am not 100% sure where else I need to put bedding compound. I have some pictures that may help others explain to me where to put the compound.

I do understand that I need to put a thin layer on the front of the bedding block around the screw hole and the recoil lug. Do I also put some bedding by the rear screw? Where else? Do I need to do any grinding on the stock before I do this? I can slide a dollar bill down from the front of the forearm to the chamber area.

These next 2 pictures you can see that the bedding block doesn't make 100% contact with the action.

I will probably get an acraglass kit locally, or if there is reason not to, then I would be up for getting some marine-tex from Brownells.

TIA for your suggestions.

Alan

 

[4ked Horn]

You don't have anywhere to put bedding other than the areas you mentioned and the rear tang area.

Maybe you could blop some on the front of your grip area and, after dipping your hand in baby oil, squeeze the bedding compound for a custom fit grip. Or if you get the brown bedding kit you can squeeze the leftover bedding goop out on the work bench to make a real looking "dog rocket". I did and it turned out pretty cool.







bump

 

[preacherman]

...might help you to know that Marine Tex is good stuff & you can get it at your local "boat or marine" supply...

 

[Ronin]

Harv

I have a Tikka 595 22-250AI, which I have bedded into a Mcmillan Sako varmint stock . I decided that I had two options with the Tikka removable recoil lug, the first being to braze or solder it to the action permanently or to epoxy it to the stock within the bedding material.
I suppose is the same thing in essense.

However, this latter option works a treat, I did also pillar bed it at the same time and it shoots very well. I use stainless Devcon and lots of release agent.

Tikkas's are not impossible just require lateral thought!

Oh, and it shoots better bedded /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Brent]

Alan,

In the picture here you can see this stock is just skim bedded as the epoxy is very thin in a few areas. If you want a good layer of epoxy (very preferable) everywhere, the thickness you want it to be must be removed from the

stock in each area you see bedding in this picture. Do your inletting about 1/16" deep as even as you can. Come right to the edge tapering the inlet depth to keep it inside the original stockline so that remains unaltered and

bedding job is hidden, be careful. If you need to stiffen a forend that is too flexible you may want to inlet the barrel channel a bit deeper, maybe up to and 1/8" or so deep, and up and under the fiberglass near the top edge

real well. Use one or two layers of 2 or 4" wide 20 mil plumber's tape for the desired clearance (freefloat) in the barrel channel, front, side and bottom of lug, inlet any extra as required to do so.

The full length of the action should be bedded at any point of contact to insure long bedding life and extra support. Be careful to not inlet outside of the tang outline as it will not look too good. I would stay inside the tang outline about 1/16" or so with the inletting.

 

[gonehuntingagain]

Thanks for the info guys.

Brent - I don't think I'll attempt to grind away on the aluminum block, but I will skim bed it like you did. Your picture also answered my next question in that I wasn't sure if I should (or could) do the sides of the action as well.
I picked up the Miles Gilbert Bedrock kit (I saw it discussed on another thread). The kit has everything that I need except plumber's tape, which I am having a hard time finding. I have one more store to check for it, then I should be bedding tommorrow. I also picked up a couple of long screws that I can cut the heads off of and use them to guide in the receiver.

If this goes well, then I'll have to do my Winchester M70, which still has the factory cheese-dick stock.

Thanks again!

Alan