Barrel Suggestions for my 6.5x284

BML

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I have a Savage LRH in 6.5x284 with a serious free bore issue. After a year(as time permitted) of trying to develop a load, I am pretty sure it's never going to happen. My options are to remove the stock barrel and fix the free bore issue or simply get a new barrel.

I am still weighing out the benefits and costs associated with each option, but in the meantime I wanted some suggestions on new barrels.

I understand this is like a Chevy vs Ford vs Dodge question but I am welcome to ALL opinions, both positive and negative.

Thank you!
 
I have a Savage LRH in 6.5x284 with a serious free bore issue. After a year(as time permitted) of trying to develop a load, I am pretty sure it's never going to happen. My options are to remove the stock barrel and fix the free bore issue or simply get a new barrel.

I am still weighing out the benefits and costs associated with each option, but in the meantime I wanted some suggestions on new barrels.

I understand this is like a Chevy vs Ford vs Dodge question but I am welcome to ALL opinions, both positive and negative.

Thank you!

What bullet weight? If you are running 120s, I'd go 1 in 9". 140s, I'd go 1 in 8"

As to brand, you are running a factory barrel. Virtually everything is better. I've ran Brux, Kreiger, Pac-Nor, Shilen, and Bartlein. I have yet to be disappointed.

I sincerely believe the smith at the wheel of the chambering lathe will have more to do with your success that anything. You might let them back yours up a thread or two and rechamber.

I would recommend you support a local smith, or use one of the fine ones on here. I certainly don't know them all, but Kirby Allen has been very good to me, and I recommend him without reservation. There may be others that are great here as well.

I've only had one rifle smith really ruffle my feathers. He made me so mad I learned how to chamber my own barrels, and have lathe access at all times. Fortunately, those are the minority.

Best of luck.
 
Current is an 8 twist and I will more than likely get another 8 if I get a new barrel. I'd like to shoot 140's or worst case 130's

I have a local gunsmith who built a custom 6.5 for my buddy. He has already done some bedding and minor trigger work to my gun and I trust him. I am just trying to weigh my options. Basically the questions I'm asking myself now are If I have to drop $150 for more smith work will it worth it to go ahead and drop a little more on a new barrel?
 
I have heard from quite a few people have been going back to the 8.5 twist to shoot 140's because of stability issues farther down range. I noticed that with Brux, Rock Creek, and Obermeyer barrels I have seen in stock.

Bob
 
Get a new barrel and don't fool with this one anymore if it will not shoot. Freebore rifles shoot just fine if it is a good barrel. Freebore is not your issue. You just got a bad barrel.
 
Cut your losses and go straight to the good stuff!!! I've been using Brux barrels and they have been a pure pleasure to chamber and shoot, I've been wanting to try Hart and Benchmark though. Pac-nor is GTG and you can get a Savage pre fit barrel from them.
 
I like cut rifled barrels of known quality. But chamber quality cutting is just as important. Finding a hummer barrel is a crapshoot. You pays yer money and takes yer chances. Whichever barrel you choose, with the 6.5-284, expect it to be toast after around 1200 rounds. I recommend a 1-8 twist with 140 gr. bullets.
 
BML:

I'm using a Bartlein in my .260 improved. It's a 1:8.5" twist....31" finished length. I'm getting very similar velocites with it when compared to the 6.5-284. This thing just loves 140's. I would say....ditch the factory tube and buy one from one of the reputable manufacturers...you won't be disappointed!

Good Luck,

Wayne
 
Cut vs. button pulled barrels?

Pick your poison. If you were going to cut a very long barrel in half to make a short barrel, I'd prefer a button rifled . If you were to recontour the exterior profile, I'd prefer a cut rifled. That said, I've violated both of those with no ill effects.

Rock creek sells their premium barrel as a cut rifled, and their budget barrel is button. Just an FYI

I still think the gunsmith fitting the barrel to the action and chambering, the cartridge loading procedures, and the personal whose finger is on the trigger will more likely influence the accuracy than the barrel, providing it is a premium barrel of a known manufacturer.
 
Get a new barrel and don't fool with this one anymore if it will not shoot. Freebore rifles shoot just fine if it is a good barrel. Freebore is not your issue. You just got a bad barrel.

I'd find this to be extremely likely.

You can sell your barrel to help recover some of the costs.

Depending on the shank size and contour, I may be interested. I'd be using this as a barrel for a 6.5 Grendel in an AR-15. PM me if interested with price you desire.
 
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