Hey, I have been working with a model 70 in a 270wsm. This gun was purchased new and here is what I have done so far, trigger, bell and Carlson medalist that is bedded and then had it duraglassed, Williams bottom metal, and had a brake installed, and I topped it with a Zeiss 6.5-20x50. I handload all my rifles and they all shoot very well but this gun is driving me nuts! I have tried hornady sst's and Nosler accubonds both in 140gr. I also have tried H4831 and retumbo powders working from low to max loads in half grains and also played with seating depths and so far the noshers with 70.5 of retumbo is the best but cannot consintantly shoot under moa. Now this gun has the stock sported barrel and had a gun builder recently tell me to let him change the barrel to a custom. While at it I am thinking about changing to a 7 short. I am about to pull my hair out with this gun! I wanted a long range shooter that was decent to pack. The smith says the barrel is too light and I am getting all I can out of it. I also forgot to mention that I have to full length size my brass it will not feed neck sized and can only get 4 loads out of my brass before necks start to split. Any help would be great!
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Barrel help
- Thread starter bhunting
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Coach Hunt
Well-Known Member
Whoa, slow down, hold on etc., etc., etc. You are not to the point of needing a barrel yet. That is a last resort sort of thing.
Here are a couple of hints that might just work for you and your model 70.
First: check the depth of the cut out for the magazine walls. Take out the bolt, then insert your fingers into the magazine while pushing the follower down. Now place your fingers on the walls of the magazine. You should be able to feel some movement of the magazine with pressure from just your fingers. If it won't move at all, here is what is happening. A lot of aftermarket stocks are not deep enough for the magazine to "free float" for lack of a better term. When this happens, you tighten the actions screws, and the bottom metal binds against the magazine and action causing all kinds of funny vibrations. If this is the case with your rifle, and it was with one of mine, then judical filing of the magazine where it binds OR a spacer between the bottom metal and the stock or a combination of the two will cure the problem. It is rather involved, but it will be worth the trouble to fix, if this is the problem.
Second: most folks tighten the middle screw of a model 70 way too much. I had a rifle that would not shoot anywhere near 3 minutes of angle until I got a tip from my gunsmith. He said to put lock-tite on the middle screw, then tighten it using ONLY YOUR FINGERS ON A CORRECT FITTING BIT. I questioned the bit only business, in other words, NO HANDLE to the screw driver, but he assured me that it would be correct. I did just as he said, and that rifle went to shooting 3/4 inch groups after the lock-tite sat up.
Hope these two tips help, and enjoy the journey to getting your rifle to shoot. Challenges are what we are all about after all!
Best to you,
Coach
Here are a couple of hints that might just work for you and your model 70.
First: check the depth of the cut out for the magazine walls. Take out the bolt, then insert your fingers into the magazine while pushing the follower down. Now place your fingers on the walls of the magazine. You should be able to feel some movement of the magazine with pressure from just your fingers. If it won't move at all, here is what is happening. A lot of aftermarket stocks are not deep enough for the magazine to "free float" for lack of a better term. When this happens, you tighten the actions screws, and the bottom metal binds against the magazine and action causing all kinds of funny vibrations. If this is the case with your rifle, and it was with one of mine, then judical filing of the magazine where it binds OR a spacer between the bottom metal and the stock or a combination of the two will cure the problem. It is rather involved, but it will be worth the trouble to fix, if this is the problem.
Second: most folks tighten the middle screw of a model 70 way too much. I had a rifle that would not shoot anywhere near 3 minutes of angle until I got a tip from my gunsmith. He said to put lock-tite on the middle screw, then tighten it using ONLY YOUR FINGERS ON A CORRECT FITTING BIT. I questioned the bit only business, in other words, NO HANDLE to the screw driver, but he assured me that it would be correct. I did just as he said, and that rifle went to shooting 3/4 inch groups after the lock-tite sat up.
Hope these two tips help, and enjoy the journey to getting your rifle to shoot. Challenges are what we are all about after all!
Best to you,
Coach
Buffalobob
Well-Known Member
Anneal your case necks.
Thanks for all the help! I have been shooting for a long time but this gun was driving me nutz! Just the other day I had a guy offer me good money for the gun so I sold it and ordered a Sendero SFII in a 7mm mag. On to another toy to play with. I think the caliber change is a good move and love the Sendero's! I hope this one will shoot and I will keep you updated.
Thanks!!gun)
Thanks!!gun)
azsugarbear
Well-Known Member
Depending on when you rifle was manufactured - it could just be the barrel. Before Winchester went out of business(2006-2007?), they really started turning out some real crap. I had a rifle was all over the place. I spent a lot of $$$ to try and improve accuracy before I took it to a smith for a "re-crown". He found the barrel was bad, meaning ot was "tight" in several places and suggested I send it back to Winchester.
By then, FN had acquired Winchester. They gave me an option of replacing the entire gun (full retail value for full retail value) of any gun they made. I ended up going with another Browning A-Bolt (my second). As I understand it, FN has tightened up quality standards quite a bit. The price of the new Winchester model 70's reflect that as well. So if your new model 70 was built in the 2005-2007 era, you may want to take a hard look at the barrel. If it was built during the new FN era, then you have a good rifle that will be simply to tweak (such as the action screws mentioned above).
By then, FN had acquired Winchester. They gave me an option of replacing the entire gun (full retail value for full retail value) of any gun they made. I ended up going with another Browning A-Bolt (my second). As I understand it, FN has tightened up quality standards quite a bit. The price of the new Winchester model 70's reflect that as well. So if your new model 70 was built in the 2005-2007 era, you may want to take a hard look at the barrel. If it was built during the new FN era, then you have a good rifle that will be simply to tweak (such as the action screws mentioned above).
thewileyone13
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2007
- Messages
- 65
Coach,
Thanks for the post above, I have heard similar issues and I had been told not to overtighten my screws before but never heard about the loc-tite.
Thanks
Thanks for the post above, I have heard similar issues and I had been told not to overtighten my screws before but never heard about the loc-tite.
Thanks
