Barrel Cleaning

[huntinco]

SniperVLS, what do you think of the Iosso paste. What does everyone think the the best copper remover is. I have a 300Ultra with a Shilen Select Match Grade barrel and a 50cal with Lothar Walther that copper foul bad.

 

[sniperVLS]

SniperVLS, what do you think of the Iosso paste. What does everyone think the the best copper remover is. I have a 300Ultra with a Shilen Select Match Grade barrel and a 50cal with Lothar Walther that copper foul bad.

Well I don't what good it does but it surely doesn't harm anything. I've been using it off and on for years, same goes for JB paste. I use wipeout for removal of copper and once you use that you'll ask yourself why you have all the cleaning gear, I ask myself that quite a bit actually lol.

I run a patch soaked with shooters choice down the barrel, sometimes I follow up with a bronze brush, sometimes just a jag with a patch and remove the solvent. I then flip rifle upside down and fill the barrel with wipeout, let it sit for an hour and remove the wipeout. Flip it back to rightside up and time for more wipeout. An hour later I remove it with a dry patch, send some soaked ones thru with some remoil or other lubricants laying around and another loose fitting dry patch to remove most of the oil and it's done. *I rarely let the wipeout sit overnight. I have done it when I put 100 or more rounds down the tube but I rarely shoot more than 60 in a normal day with a single rifle.

There's never any downtime while the wipeout sits, I always take my Sigs or 870s to the range so while the wipeout is soaking, I am cleaning the other toys that need it

*I have no doubt some will see my cleaning regimen and laugh. I've tried so many different things over the years though and this one is the easiest. let the suggestions fly, I'm all ears, err eyes

-Aaron-

 

[Jim Oliver]

Wipe Out info...........

Check this out:

wipe-out

I talked to Mr. Paul (Terry is his first name) about a year ago about this product.

He was very helpful with my "dumb" questions; he also stated that in my normal weather conditions (central Alabama) that Wipe Out residue, left after the cleaning process and then dry patching, would provide protection from corrosion for about 6 months.

I'm not saying that I will depend on that, but it was encouraging to hear.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[Kevin Cram]

I've been using this method for years and has worked very well especially when breaking in a barrel. Run about 4-5 wet patches of Butch's Bore Shine to knock out the powder residue followed by 4-5 dry patches. I go right to a bronze bristle brush and Sweets and put more Sweets on every other stroke out the muzzle end. I want to spread the Sweets from muzzle to breech very generously. I'll wipe off my cleaning rod and spray carb cleaner on the brush to nuetralize it. Wait 15 min. then use a wet patch soaked with Hydrogen Peroxide and push that patch through very very slowly, it should take about 1 min. to pass through a 30" barrel. When the patch gets about 1"-2" from the muzzle it will look like your barrel has rabies and be oozing green, yellow, and blue nasties. I'll then run another patch soaked in Hydrogen Peroxide but a little faster. Use several dry patches to clean out, 1 with Kroil oil and another dry patch. When you run the last dry patch through stop about 2" short of the muzzle and shine a flashlight down the muzzle end. The light will reflect off the white patch and you will see if any small copper streaks remain. If there is, do it all over again. Once a barrel is properly broke in this will remove all the copper in one cleaning. The Hydrogen Peroxide reacts with the Sweets and will help keep the copper in its liquid state in a froathy foam ahead of the patch not allowing it to solidify back onto the barrel especially in the corners of the grooves. I bore scope after my cleaning method and have found this to be a very effective way of removing the copper.

 

[sniperVLS]

I've been using this method for years and has worked very well especially when breaking in a barrel. Run about 4-5 wet patches of Butch's Bore Shine to knock out the powder residue followed by 4-5 dry patches. I go right to a bronze bristle brush and Sweets and put more Sweets on every other stroke out the muzzle end. I want to spread the Sweets from muzzle to breech very generously. I'll wipe off my cleaning rod and spray carb cleaner on the brush to nuetralize it. Wait 15 min. then use a wet patch soaked with Hydrogen Peroxide and push that patch through very very slowly, it should take about 1 min. to pass through a 30" barrel. When the patch gets about 1"-2" from the muzzle it will look like your barrel has rabies and be oozing green, yellow, and blue nasties. I'll then run another patch soaked in Hydrogen Peroxide but a little faster. Use several dry patches to clean out, 1 with Kroil oil and another dry patch. When you run the last dry patch through stop about 2" short of the muzzle and shine a flashlight down the muzzle end. The light will reflect off the white patch and you will see if any small copper streaks remain. If there is, do it all over again. Once a barrel is properly broke in this will remove all the copper in one cleaning. The Hydrogen Peroxide reacts with the Sweets and will help keep the copper in its liquid state in a froathy foam ahead of the patch not allowing it to solidify back onto the barrel especially in the corners of the grooves. I bore scope after my cleaning method and have found this to be a very effective way of removing the copper.

Your method has intrigued me, enough to the point where I'm going to try it soon. If I ask you questions before or during, you have only yourself to blame

 

[Kevin Cram]

Sniper,
I'm sure you'll see it will clean the copper out very well. I'm sure you already know, don't leave the Sweets in very long. When I'm done brushing I add 15 min. no more. Similiar goes with the Hydrogen Peroxide, I told a friend who is experienced in chemistry how I clean. He looked up something on Hydrogen Peroxide and said that if left on steel for a moderate period of time it could harm the barrel, but so can some of the other good cleaning chemicals. Just use it, get it out, and nuetralize the barrel.

 

[sniperVLS]

Will do.

 

[Jim Oliver]

Guys,
Just a question.........is there a difference between leaving the strong stuff in the bore for a while and repeated applications of the same chemical?

Jim

 

[glassman]

I don't see any mention of the use of BoreTech Eliminator....has any one tried this product yet?

After trying Butch's, Montana Extreme, Sweets, Kroil, Wipe Out and other various cleaners, I am now strictly using BT Eliminator.

Super good cleaner!!! Lots faster than Wipe Out....

I only clean my hunting rifles after 30 or so shots....probably really not necessary tho.

 

[Derek M.]

3 wet patches with KG-1 powder/carbon foul remover

10-20 strokes with brush saturated with KG-1

2 dry patches

3-4 wet patches with KG-2 copper remover/bore conditioner, with last patch using about 20 strokes

Spray bore with KG-3

2 dry patches

Warthog1134, 2 wet patches (saturated) on top of plastic wrap jag. Let sit 10 minutes.

Take 1" square plastic wrap and spear with jag again. Place regular dry patch over this so warthog1134 does not work on jag. Do 2 dry patches.

Double check with 1 last saturated patch of warthog1134. If clean, dry patch for final round.

2 wet patches with KG-4 oil. Best protective oil I've found.

For me, borescope observation still revealed copper after various foam cleaners. I believe I read a post where only a borescope will tell you if your bore is truly clean. I agree. There is no other real way to objectify a clean barrel. It is my experience that most of the regular, off the shelf stuff at Bass Pro, WalMart, Dick's sporting goods, etc., is worthless. This includes Shooters Choice/Kroil mix.

My opinion is based on borescope observation. Wipeout, for me, is about 70% as good as they claim.

 

[huntinco]

montour rifles. I'm going to try that

 

[Kevin Cram]

Jim,
The repeated use of the stronger cleaning chemicals should not hurt your barrel. Its when these strong chemicals are left in the barrel for longer than reccomended to create a chemical reaction with the steel that can cause barrel damage. Use a nuetralizing chemical after the strong chemicals are used to stop or nuetralize the strong chemicals from working. I use Kroil but carb cleaner would work also. Be sure to dry patch everything out in the end.

 

[sniperVLS]

I don't see any mention of the use of BoreTech Eliminator....has any one tried this product yet?

After trying Butch's, Montana Extreme, Sweets, Kroil, Wipe Out and other various cleaners, I am now strictly using BT Eliminator.

Super good cleaner!!! Lots faster than Wipe Out....

I only clean my hunting rifles after 30 or so shots....probably really not necessary tho.

Haven't tried it but have heard good things. I have to stop looking in this thread, so many ideas! LOL

 

[Boss Hoss]

I buy Brake Cleaner by the case at Wally World!! That way I know that everything including the lugs are pristine after cleaning then I lube.... Just goes to show you that this hobby can get very intense! LOL!!!! Also by making sure everything is clean the mirror on the BS stays clean as well!!! BIG LOL!!!!!