Bad pillar bedding diagnostics

[J E Custom]

JE
Do you make your own pillars? What do you use for bushing the pillar up?

I just make them out of aluminum or stainless and cut them to the necessary length to raise the action off the stock just a little.(at most 1/16") on most composite stocks the existing pillars are recessed in the stock and wont touch the action, so most of the time the bushing/extension is about 1/8" long in order to lift the stock enough to bed. Note : don't raise the action to much or it will look odd. I like the barrel and action centered on the stock inlet. If you don't have access to a metal lathe you can stack/bond stainless washers of the proper size to the height you want and they will work.

You can remove/scrape some of the stock but you have to be careful not to cut into the filler. that is why I like to add to the pillar height.

Some feel that the bedding compound will hold up in compression over time, But the metal to metal to metal make up does not compress over time and the bedding will last a life time.

J E CUSTOM

 

[maninthemaze]

Maybe there is a gap between the bedding compound and the action? I don't know how much the stuff you used would shrink? I don't know, I'm just throwing out ideas at this point.

Maybe put some marking ink or something on the bottom of the action and see if it touches the bedding without tightening the action screws. The action should have contact on the whole area before the action screws are tightened.

 

[cahunter805]

I just make them out of aluminum or stainless and cut them to the necessary length to raise the action off the stock just a little.(at most 1/16") on most composite stocks the existing pillars are recessed in the stock and wont touch the action, so most of the time the bushing/extension is about 1/8" long in order to lift the stock enough to bed. Note : don't raise the action to much or it will look odd. I like the barrel and action centered on the stock inlet. If you don't have access to a metal lathe you can stack/bond stainless washers of the proper size to the height you want and they will work.

You can remove/scrape some of the stock but you have to be careful not to cut into the filler. that is why I like to add to the pillar height.

Some feel that the bedding compound will hold up in compression over time, But the metal to metal to metal make up does not compress over time and the bedding will last a life time.

J E CUSTOM

Gotcha. Sounds like a great idea for a stock that already has a bedding block or pillars.

 

[J E Custom]

Maybe there is a gap between the bedding compound and the action? I don't know how much the stuff you used would shrink? I don't know, I'm just throwing out ideas at this point.

Maybe put some marking ink or something on the bottom of the action and see if it touches the bedding without tightening the action screws. The action should have contact on the whole area before the action screws are tightened.

It is not the shrinking of the bedding compound that is the problem, it is the compression of the compound that allows the torque to lessen over time changing the accuracy and the Point of impact.

A good example of compression of any material is the use of a wooden stock, they are the worst
about loosing torque. but if you do a proper pillar bedding on a wood stock the compression issue goes away. metal will compress but not at the torque used in a rifle action. (35 to 60 inch pounds)

Again, if you have a metal to metal to metal fit (Floor metal touching the pillar and the pillar touching the action there is no material that will compress and the bedding holds the action in the same place for an extremely long time without loss of torque.

Here is the order of change. No bedding = frequent torqueing , Bedding only =is much better but the life is dependent on the stock materials and the bedding materials and quality. Proper pillar bedding = the best for longevity and consistency because it helps manage point loading of the action screws, prevents warping/flexing the action and allows the bedding compound to do its job of maintaining the position of the action.

J E CUSTOM

 

[maninthemaze]

JE CUSTOM

I was just thinking that maybe the material shrunk and pulled the pillar away from the action when it did. I have only done four rifles so I am definitely no expert. You obviously have a whole lot more experience at these things than I do. I was simply throwing ideas at the wall thinking maybe one of them might stick.

Thank you for sharing your insight and expert opinion!!! It's definitely appreciated by people like me who are constantly learning more and more from people like you.

 

[J E Custom]

JE CUSTOM

I was just thinking that maybe the material shrunk and pulled the pillar away from the action when it did. I have only done four rifles so I am definitely no expert. You obviously have a whole lot more experience at these things than I do. I was simply throwing ideas at the wall thinking maybe one of them might stick.

Thank you for sharing your insight and expert opinion!!! It's definitely appreciated by people like me who are constantly learning more and more from people like you.

You are welcome.

Most compounds made for bedding have little or no shrinkage when used properly.

I find that compounds that get very hot, Do have a shrinkage problem. the ones to look out for
are the ones with fast cure times. most good bedding compounds have a 2 to 4 hour working time
and a 4+ hour cure time. these just barely get warm and shrinkage is held to a minimum.

I "personally" don't recommend anything that is not designed for bedding for this reason. this is also not the place to save money and buy something for patching mufflers or boats where heat and shrinkage is not an issue.

Note: Most of us had to start at the beginning and we also learned the hard way. Bedding sounds like a simple task and it is if you have done many, but it can be tricky and troublesome if not done right.

J E CUSTOM