david g ranes
Well-Known Member
I would like to own one of the diamond blade knives but I can't warrant spending that much on a knife I have been forging my own knives for several years before the show came on
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Backcountry knives- Argali vs Goat knives vs others
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david g ranes
Well-Known Member
Backcountry knives? Well... if survival might be the game I'd take my... old school Gen 1 Cold Steel Trail Master, for everything else I'd take my favorite; my Steve Morseth #5 hunter, and as a back up my Bud Nealy BN#7 Pash-Kabz
The Morseth #5 has also performed above and beyond the call, it stays razor-sharp as a game knife very easy to work with in the hand. Like most useable game knives don't be opening cans of beans with them and they'll perform every time you need them too... Take a P38 for the canned beans. Cheers
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The Morseth #5 has also performed above and beyond the call, it stays razor-sharp as a game knife very easy to work with in the hand. Like most useable game knives don't be opening cans of beans with them and they'll perform every time you need them too... Take a P38 for the canned beans. Cheers
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David those are beautiful knifes.
If I had your talent I would not buy any knives as I would make what I wanted myself.
Since your a knife maker which steel keeps an edge longer?
436 I remember the Morseth knives years ago,do they still make that knife?
If I had your talent I would not buy any knives as I would make what I wanted myself.
Since your a knife maker which steel keeps an edge longer?
436 I remember the Morseth knives years ago,do they still make that knife?
Yes with your ability to make your own David you can make it the way you want to but my skills don't include knife making and I love knives so I have a bad habit when I see a knife I like my wallet slips out of my pocket n some reason that knife will follow me home 
I was able to acquire a mulkey knife with a Damascus blade n got to talk with the builder ftf for quite a while n he was explaining his making process n it takes a real talent to build a quality knife and a lot of time which gave me a new appreciation for a quality blade....another brand that I have a full set of and really like is the OPINEL and they are made in France but that's just me
I was able to acquire a mulkey knife with a Damascus blade n got to talk with the builder ftf for quite a while n he was explaining his making process n it takes a real talent to build a quality knife and a lot of time which gave me a new appreciation for a quality blade....another brand that I have a full set of and really like is the OPINEL and they are made in France but that's just medavid g ranes
Well-Known Member
A lot of edge holding capabilities lies in the heat treating of the steel I have used a lot of spring steel through the years it's very tough and you can harden it to where a file will skate on it then soften it back so it's not brittle so it won't break but I keep the edge pretty hard to hold a good edge they seem to with stand at least 3 elk that's the most my friends and I have had at the same time to work on. David
I have heard that about heat treating.
Do use a furnace or do you go by color?
There is a guy that makes knives in Washington on the hiway to Levenworth and offers classes on knife making.
There used to be a guy here in Montana that did that at a fraction of the price but not sure if he still does.
All that was pre-covid so nor sure if that still stands.
It would be nice to be able to forge your own blade.
Do use a furnace or do you go by color?
There is a guy that makes knives in Washington on the hiway to Levenworth and offers classes on knife making.
There used to be a guy here in Montana that did that at a fraction of the price but not sure if he still does.
All that was pre-covid so nor sure if that still stands.
It would be nice to be able to forge your own blade.
AkBirder300
Well-Known Member
I bought a Fjalkniven blank and put my own G10 scales on it, my favorite heavy duty knife.
david g ranes
Well-Known Member
coleman112
Member
I have a few and the ones I like best so far are the argali and benchmade bugout, as far as non disposables are concerned. Haven't tried a benchmade altitude yet. Next one on the list to try is a FrontiersmanGear mountain series. Might be worth checking out. I plan on ordering one when the are back in stock.
Old Rooster,
Sorry for the late reply I just saw this. No, I don't believe Morseth is in business anymore, I sure feel lucky to have obtained one of Steves personal knives after he passed. I thought his son might pick up the business but I don't think he had.
Cheers.
nmbarta
Well-Known Member
I make my own as well and I don't get caught up in the hype about "super steels" Some of these alloys work really well, but because of the complex alloy, they require a very specific and very controlled heat treating process, that involves very high heat, and very low heat to get right. (liquid nitrogen)
I use mostly 1084, and can get really good results with it just using my forge, a magnet, and an electric oven. Not so easy to do with 52100 (ball bearings).
There are several manufactures that are using these new steels, and many of these new steels have mixed review, I know that there are a ton of knives out there that are very expensive, made out of these exotic steels that were not heat treated correctly.
I love simple high carbon steel, I love how they develop a patina over time. It's fun to watch them change, The very first time you take a highly polished 1084 blade through an onion, you'll be able to see it change, blood will do it as well many other things.
Any knife steel that has a perfect heat treat is going to outperform any knife steel that missed it's heat treat for the most part.
The next thing to watch for is edge geometry. This will effect how well a knife performs more than any other aspect of the knife imo. I have found very few manufactures get this right, and need to be re profiled from day one. Edge geometry and the grit that you finish the edge to have a drastic effect on how a knife cuts, and how long an edge will last. I personally like a 30-32 degree combined edge, on a 1500 grit stone. A 40 degree edge with a 600 grit stone done right, will work just fine.
I use mostly 1084, and can get really good results with it just using my forge, a magnet, and an electric oven. Not so easy to do with 52100 (ball bearings).
There are several manufactures that are using these new steels, and many of these new steels have mixed review, I know that there are a ton of knives out there that are very expensive, made out of these exotic steels that were not heat treated correctly.
I love simple high carbon steel, I love how they develop a patina over time. It's fun to watch them change, The very first time you take a highly polished 1084 blade through an onion, you'll be able to see it change, blood will do it as well many other things.
Any knife steel that has a perfect heat treat is going to outperform any knife steel that missed it's heat treat for the most part.
The next thing to watch for is edge geometry. This will effect how well a knife performs more than any other aspect of the knife imo. I have found very few manufactures get this right, and need to be re profiled from day one. Edge geometry and the grit that you finish the edge to have a drastic effect on how a knife cuts, and how long an edge will last. I personally like a 30-32 degree combined edge, on a 1500 grit stone. A 40 degree edge with a 600 grit stone done right, will work just fine.
So it's not the steel but proper heat treating!That makes sense.
A friend had a carbon steel knife he bought second hand,no maker on the blade so I don't know the maker but it would hang right in there with a 550.00 custom stainless knife cut for cut and he even cut the brisket with it and still wound up just as sharp as my custom made knife.
I have heard 1080,1084,1095 are some of the best knives knife makers own.
Old Rooster
A friend had a carbon steel knife he bought second hand,no maker on the blade so I don't know the maker but it would hang right in there with a 550.00 custom stainless knife cut for cut and he even cut the brisket with it and still wound up just as sharp as my custom made knife.
I have heard 1080,1084,1095 are some of the best knives knife makers own.
Old Rooster
nmbarta
Well-Known Member
The steel does matter, and does make a difference. Some are more abrasion resistant, which makes them harder to sharpen. Some are more stain resistant, some have a finer grain structure ( these get sharper) some are tougher, but don't hold an edge as well. Generally speaking, steels with better edge retention are harder to get sharp, and some require good diamond stones to get them there. At the end of the day, I feel like you're going to spend about the same amount of time sharpening any of them....some you'll sharpen more often, but won't spend as much time each time.
If you can't properly sharpen a knife good edge retention is probably more important to you. I always have a sharpener with me. The key is to never let your knife get dull....when it stops shaving.....it's time for a few licks on the steel. Dull knives are dangerous knives.
If you can't properly sharpen a knife good edge retention is probably more important to you. I always have a sharpener with me. The key is to never let your knife get dull....when it stops shaving.....it's time for a few licks on the steel. Dull knives are dangerous knives.
