Anyone found a solvent that cleans up cases without having to tumble?

[Gene]

Nope, it evaporates. You can also try denatured alcohol, no residue.

 

[xdeano]

no problem K. the 00 works, but the 0000 stuff makes it shine after a couple of twists. With my match brass I don't ever tumble because it'll mess up my necks that I've spent so much time prepping. After I get the carbon off i'll just neck size them and load. Turns out better than a tumbler anyhow and it's quicker if you only have a few hundred good brass.

xdeano

 

[KQguy]

Yeah,I don't think I will even be using my tumbler anymore.I think it is more of a hassle than just wiping the cases clean with some steel wool.

 

[Pdvdh]

Gene, I'm sure the answer to this is no otherwise you probably wouldn't use it but, for my own piece of mind and in case I decide to give it a try, does the brake cleaner leave any residue itself?

It won't leave any residue on the brass because the chemicals are so volatile they evaporate. It will leave brake cleaning residue in your lungs, and blood stream, which is why I try to avoid use of these products other than outside the house, and until all fluids have completely evaporated outside. Every little bit of exposure hurts - IMO. Read the caution label on the brake cleaner label before you spray. Same with CRC 5.56.

 

[Chas1]

phorwath, never thought about fumes but, I agree the less the better. So far is sounds like steel wool is probably the route to go, cheap, no fumes, and from what I'm reading seems to do the job.

 

[woods]

I mainly use Flitz but have used steel wool and Scotchbrite. Flitz will leave a protective coating on the cases and make them slicker so they chamber easier. The Scotchbrite cases are noticeably draggier to chamber

To clean the inside of the necks, the Scotchbrite works good

I can do about 50 cases (trimmed, chamferred, cleaned and mica'ed) in about an hour

 

[Autorotate]

Woods....your brass pics look like a jewelry showcase. Nice pics!

I use.....

 

[Chas1]

Woods, the second pic down it looks like one case is more like a mirror finish and the other not so much so which method was used on the mirror looking case and what method on the not so looking mirror finish?

Also looks like the Scotchbrite does the trick really well on the inside of the necks...man they are shiny and clean. Great pics, thanks for sharing.

 

[rain164845]

I don't think I would try KG-1 for that since it turns patches blue in my barrel. That indicates to me that it is eating copper. I wouldn't want it eating the brass.

Joe

 

[woods]

Woods, the second pic down it looks like one case is more like a mirror finish and the other not so much so which method was used on the mirror looking case and what method on the not so looking mirror finish?

Also looks like the Scotchbrite does the trick really well on the inside of the necks...man they are shiny and clean. Great pics, thanks for sharing.

The shiny one is Flitzed and the other is with Scotchbrite. The trick is that you have to have some way to spin the cases or it will wear you out. Once you apply the Flitz and rub it in, it will raise the tarnish and stains off the metal and turn it into a black mushy film and then you have to get that rubbed off. And with the Scotchbrite or even the steel wool, if you can spin the cases then it becomes a lot easier to do.

For spinning I use a Lee Zip Trim but you could also get a case holder that fits in a drill.

 

[xdeano]

Stay away from the scotchbrite pads for the outside, use the 0000 steel wool and i'll look just like the Flitzed brass.

Mine are just as shiney as one that i've tumbled. I don't tumble match brass though, just my prairie dog stuff.

I may take a look at some flitz just for the heck of it.

xdeano

 

[Chas1]

Woods, Thanks for the response, Maybe I'll give the Flitz a try.

 

[xdeano]

here is what the 0000 steel wool does to my brass after about 15 seconds.

the left is a before the right is after. They turn out very clean and don't have the scratch marks like the heavy steel wool or Brillo pads leave.

xdeano

 

[KQguy]

I have a reloading video by David Tubb,and he recomends not polishing brass.He said you don't want brass too smooth,because it can actually move around inside the chamber and cause accuracy issues,that's why he doesn't tumble cases anymore than necessary.That's why I only clean around the neck/shoulder area,unless there is visible dirt on the rest of the case that needs wiped off.My loaded rounds aren't pretty,just functional.