Anyone else swap scopes?

[DoneNOut]

I thought I deserved a medal for getting a Bushnell DMR3 after being so happy with the DMR2 to keep things more uniform across the board.

Well a little more than that…

 

[BrentM]

Same. I put good scopes in Spuhr mounts and move them as needed. Re-zeroing is a 5 shot process at most. Tangent Theta is a $6k scope to get to your door, March Genesis $7k, ZCO $5k, ATACR $4k. Rifles are cheap by comparison I'd need a third mortgage to put that level of glass on ALL my rifles.

Even a 2k scope x4-5 on my most used rifles is still 8-10k total. I'm just not into this stuff enough to say yep, I'm willing to spend piles on it but we all have our own personal limits. I have 1 fairly expensive switch barrel rig. Want more….. ha ha. If I got rid of other hobbies……

 

[Buck Fever]

I thought I deserved a medal for getting a Bushnell DMR3 after being so happy with the DMR2 to keep things more uniform across the board.

Well a little more than that…
View attachment 443934

Who makes that spigot mount you have your bipods attached to?

 

[Dirtrax]

With a little planning such a scope ring height, ring and base bedding, and magnification needs it's pretty doable. Oh…good notes too will put the process into the 3-5 rounds range. Not to get on zero so much but to confidently know I'm on point. At any given time about 1/4 of my gear have no optics mounted.

 

[DoneNOut]

Who makes that spigot mount you have your bipods attached to?

American Rifle Company. The black barreled rig is an all American Rifle Company build. Sans the bipod and barrier bag.

 

[Teri Anne]

I actually thought about this last night while I was rearranging things in my safe. I pulled out all the scope boxes and loose scopes along with other crap that was getting in the way and realized I either need a much bigger safe, less rifles, or come up with a better system. It all started when I wanted a 22 to shoot an armadillo in my yard and it was deep in the safe. By the time I got the 22 out it was dark thirty and the cheap Vortex scope was useless. My solution has been to upgrade rifles and scopes a little at a time. Cheap scopes just take up space and create frustration.

I am a big fan of Vortex scopes but do have to admit that their economy scopes for the most part do not have the best glass. To be truthful some of the more expensive ones are a bit lacking in clarity. I have also found this to be true for just about any and all manufacturers. They all have their price leaders which usually lead to an early demise and entry into the nearest landfill when they fail to meet expectations. I have also found that many of the higher priced scopes from the major brands sometimes fall short of what their price tags dictate that they should be. Always look through the scope prior to purchase. Always adjust the eye piece of the scope to make the reticle appear dark and sharp. If it is not adjusted properly no scope will appear to have good clarity. There have been several people who had no idea that the scope could be adjusted to their eye for clarity. I found this especially true when working at Cabelas. When someone would complain about clarity I would have them look through it and out one of the windows in the front against the sky, white or blue never gray or angry. then adjust the eyepiece until the reticle was clear, black and prominent. Usually took care of the clarity complaint. There is also the factor of the individual eyes. If you can't tell the difference between a $600 scope and a $1200 scope you might as well buy the $600 since with your eyes the extra cost is not going to do you any good. Anyway, buy the best glass you can afford for the type of shooting you are going to be doing. Most times you get what you pay for.

 

[Buck Fever]

I have found that every scope I've bought that was assembled at Light Optic Works in Japan has been very good for the price. That's a Weaver Classic Extreme, a Nitrex (rebadged Weaver Super Slam), a Tract Toric 4-20x50, Buschnell LRTSi and LRHSi. It helped that I got all of them on sale but they are all well built with good glass for the price I paid.

They probably won't get you an extra 15 minutes of hunting at dawn and dusk but I think I paid $240 for my Nitrex years ago and it compares very well against budget scopes I've seen. If you can find the modern version of a deal like that you'll get an entirely serviceable scope just stepping slightly up from "budget" scopes.

I hope the SWFA 2.5-10x32 Ultralight scopes I ordered are up to that standard. I hear good things but haven't had my hands on one yet. I know they will be light which is good for an MSR but if the glass sucks it will be a pretty big letdown.

 

[GRG]

I have been going to pic rails so that I can put on my scopes I like for load work up then switch to an appropriate scope for the intended use of the rifle. I was always a wood and blued steel guy, some of these rifles still just need bases, rings and scope to make them look right though.

 

[Lenny Foffa]

I would like to make a correction, The scope I purchased in January is a Leupold VX 5 HD , in 3X to 15X on a 30mm main tube. ( Not a 2X to 10 X as I said before ) This new scope that will replace the Leupold VX3 2.5X to 8 X on the Weatherby Ultralight. I am hoping in this will be a more "All Around Scope " for deer hunting here on the east coast. Sorry for the Mistake.

 

[RB II]

I kinda like the barrel switch idea. I am thinking about getting 2 Zeus actions, one short/medium action w/308 bolt face and one LA magnum bolt, 2 really nice stocks/bottom metal and mag/triggers/scopes (+base and rings). Then just buy barrels and cut them for that action and have as many different calibers as I might want. Still have to re-zero but the stocks (plus bedding) and triggers can amount to a good chunk of a rifles cost as well as the scope.

 

[DoneNOut]

I kinda like the barrel switch idea. I am thinking about getting 2 Zeus actions, one short/medium action w/308 bolt face and one LA magnum bolt, 2 really nice stocks/bottom metal and mag/triggers/scopes (+base and rings). Then just buy barrels and cut them for that action and have as many different calibers as I might want. Still have to re-zero but the stocks (plus bedding) and triggers can amount to a good chunk of a rifles cost as well as the scope.

This is my plan as well in regards to philosophy of use.

 

[cvixx]

Thought I would add some mildly interesting data here. Not really a long range Hunter, got tired to wasting my $ in useless drawings here in Utah. Long range shooting is different. At my age, 78, 500 meters is about max. To really go beyond that, and the local range does extend to 1000 meters, requires a heavier cartridge than my shoulders are happy with, plus the line breaks would be insufferably long. With that in mind, back to scopes. While I do have several "quality" scopes, most fall in the cheaper category . A decade ago, I started buying the rangefinder models from the 60s; Tasco Japan, Bushnell and Redfield. I have found it enjoyable to test my skills with the best from 50+ years ago, and at 500 meters they work fine. To winnow them out would be a heartache, plus have too many rifles (50+) so they would have to go, also. So my suggestion would be to save some $ and spend $300 or so and get a good rangefinder scope, play with the tombstone, and see how well you so. Then swap if you like.

I used to work with some scout/snipers in the Nam. I was an arty FO and got the first laser rangefinders incountry. Their scopes were spot on to 600 meters, per my equipment, not just minute of VC. See if you are as good as they were!

 

[DoneNOut]

I have found that every scope I've bought that was assembled at Light Optic Works in Japan has been very good for the price. That's a Weaver Classic Extreme, a Nitrex (rebadged Weaver Super Slam), a Tract Toric 4-20x50, Buschnell LRTSi and LRHSi. It helped that I got all of them on sale but they are all well built with good glass for the price I paid.

They probably won't get you an extra 15 minutes of hunting at dawn and dusk but I think I paid $240 for my Nitrex years ago and it compares very well against budget scopes I've seen. If you can find the modern version of a deal like that you'll get an entirely serviceable scope just stepping slightly up from "budget" scopes.

I hope the SWFA 2.5-10x32 Ultralight scopes I ordered are up to that standard. I hear good things but haven't had my hands on one yet. I know they will be light which is good for an MSR but if the glass sucks it will be a pretty big letdown.

LOW is what I look for too.

 

[Buck Fever]

Thought I would add some mildly interesting data here. Not really a long range Hunter, got tired to wasting my $ in useless drawings here in Utah. Long range shooting is different. At my age, 78, 500 meters is about max. To really go beyond that, and the local range does extend to 1000 meters, requires a heavier cartridge than my shoulders are happy with, plus the line breaks would be insufferably long. With that in mind, back to scopes. While I do have several "quality" scopes, most fall in the cheaper category . A decade ago, I started buying the rangefinder models from the 60s; Tasco Japan, Bushnell and Redfield. I have found it enjoyable to test my skills with the best from 50+ years ago, and at 500 meters they work fine. To winnow them out would be a heartache, plus have too many rifles (50+) so they would have to go, also. So my suggestion would be to save some $ and spend $300 or so and get a good rangefinder scope, play with the tombstone, and see how well you so. Then swap if you like.

I used to work with some scout/snipers in the Nam. I was an arty FO and got the first laser rangefinders incountry. Their scopes were spot on to 600 meters, per my equipment, not just minute of VC. See if you are as good as they were!

I built up a 338 RUM. It's a heavy gun with a 30" barrel but it also has an Area419 Sidewinder brake and so far, shooting factory ammo, it seems to kick softer than a .308.

It's my ELR gun, should be good for 2,000+ yards so unless you are super sensitive to recoil, you can still go long.