Anyone else have problems with savage accutrigger?

[Trickymissfit]

I have a Savage Arms BA 110 in 300 win mag. It does the exact same thing. After cycling the bolt the whole trigger (accu safety triger) included freezes rock solid and so dose the three stage safety. I recently sent it back to savage and just got it back yesterday because of consistent missfiring. The firing pin would not strike the primer and also because of the freezing trigger. After getting it back went to the rage today and it continues to freeze and missfire. Savage said there was nothing wrong with the rifle when I returned it. B.S. I will now be sending their $2000 pile of SH!$ back to them. I dont think I will ever buy another Savage again. I took video of the action freezing and missfiring today I will try to post it ASAP.

If the firing pin does not strike the primer there is another issue (assuming the firing pin let go). I've have one set at 2lb., and have yet to ever see a problem. I've also been around dozens of them in the past, and have never heard of anybody having an issue with one.
gary

 

[milanuk]

The most common problems people encounter stem from the trigger being set down at the ragged edge - whether from the factory (why?!?) or via their own efforts.

After that, when they try slapping the bolt handle down - not sure *** they think that accomplishes - the sear trips and the Accutrigger locks up. No need for that nonsense... I guarantee I can operate the bolt faster and more smoothly *not* doing that than you can slamming it up and back and forward and down. Greasin' the dang bolt helps a *lot*.

The other thing... that grip that comes on the gun may look tacticool, but is way too small for proper hand placement and positioning of your trigger finger. It's too easy to put your finger *thru* the trigger guard and not just the pad of the tip of your trigger finger on the trigger shoe. As mentioned, that leads to pushing the trigger sideways to some degree, not straight back.

I've spent a *lot* of time behind these triggers, and this amounts to the same complaints that we were hearing 3 & 4 years ago. There *are* times when the mechanism may need repair or replacement, but those times are vanishingly rare. If you sent it back to the factory and they function tested it and pronounced it sound... please be sure you aren't doing either of the things I mentioned above, and try turning the weight up a bit, even if it isn't quite as light as you'd like it initially. Get it safe and reliable first, then worry about getting it lighter or replacing it with an aftermarket trigger.

YMMV,

Monte

 

[groper]

I feel your frustration... i experienced the same thing from time to time on my model 10FCP.

For me, it would happen only very rarely which is why it was difficult to figure out the cause of the problem...

for my wife, it would happen just about every single time she tried to pull the trigger on this rifle - and she really lost the plot because of it, refused to shoot that rifle in the end.

So this made me realize that it must have been the way she was pulling the trigger and i finally figured out what was causing the problem.

If the small safety trigger thingy is not pulled all the way back dead level with the real trigger before sqeezing - you get that annoying misfire. The rifle just goes click but no boom and what is happening is the firing pin only travels half way to the primer and then getts stopped - you can see this by the depth of the firing pin indicator on the back of the bolt after it happens, its only about half travel. SO, you really need to change the way you pull the trigger to avoid this, making sure you have your finger right around that little side trigger thingy and pull/hold it right back squarely before attempting the squeeze the real trigger with it. My wife tends to pull a trigger with just the tip of her finger which was causing her the drama.

The second problem is when the trigger goes hard and you cant move it at all like the safety has been applied after you chamber a round. This problem is caused by the way in which the firearm has been cocked - to the best of my reckoning it happens when some part of the accutrigger system is still in a half way pulled state when the bolt is cycled and therefore it locks you out so the firearm cant discharge the instant you have the bolt closed. This happens even when the trigger is not touched during cycling and really is a legitimate design or warranty problem with this trigger system. However, i did notice it happens very rarely once we figured out the first problem... When this happens, empty the chamber and pull the trigger hard several times with the bolt fully open, making sure not do it like problem 1, then close the bolt and dry fire it, again making sure you dont do problem 1 - check the firing pin indicator. This seems to free up whatever jams it...

IMHO savage could have made this a bit better so that its not so sensitive to these problems, for example why does the little safety trigger thingy have to be pulled back 100% for it to work? IMHO pulling it back just 50% should be enough to disengage this safety mechanism...

 

[CRNA]

I have a new Savage with the Accutrigger. Never had this problem in the approx. 100 rounds through it.

 

[backwoods83]

I've got an idea for all who have problems with their accutrigger, take the little yellow handled adjuster and turn the pull weight up just a tid bit from as low as it will go with the spring binded and the problem will magically disappear!

 

[land308]

I had this happen on my 12 fv. I had put in in a b&c med tactical. Slowly got worse over time. It turned out that trigger assembly was just barely touching the stock/bedding compound in one area. couple of minutes with a dremel and it had been perfect since. 1000 rounds. no problems

 

[misterc01]

Luckily I have a Model 12, and originally the pull measured at .2 oz! It made shooting it exciting first time out! I upped it to 8 OZ, but may go a bit higher. I experienced the famous "locked accutrigger" syndrome from closing the bolt too hard, found out about that and corrected it, but now I have an interesting issue I wonder if anyone else has seen. I have had a few reloaded rounds that, when I chambered, the accutrigger locked and would not move back. All the measurements seemd correct - case length, seating depth, etc. Happened with a couple Hornady cases and A-max loads and a couple federal cases with TMKs. I deconstructed one of them. dumped the powder, swapped in a fired primer, seated the bullet back to the previous depth. I chambered it, and when I pulled back on the trigger, it flunctioned correctly. I cotacted Savage, and they said send it for a gunsmith review. Before I do that, any thoughts as to the problem?

 

[david g ranes]

The most common problems people encounter stem from the trigger being set down at the ragged edge - whether from the factory (why?!?) or via their own efforts.

After that, when they try slapping the bolt handle down - not sure *** they think that accomplishes - the sear trips and the Accutrigger locks up. No need for that nonsense... I guarantee I can operate the bolt faster and more smoothly *not* doing that than you can slamming it up and back and forward and down. Greasin' the dang bolt helps a *lot*.

The other thing... that grip that comes on the gun may look tacticool, but is way too small for proper hand placement and positioning of your trigger finger. It's too easy to put your finger *thru* the trigger guard and not just the pad of the tip of your trigger finger on the trigger shoe. As mentioned, that leads to pushing the trigger sideways to some degree, not straight back.

I've spent a *lot* of time behind these triggers, and this amounts to the same complaints that we were hearing 3 & 4 years ago. There *are* times when the mechanism may need repair or replacement, but those times are vanishingly rare. If you sent it back to the factory and they function tested it and pronounced it sound... please be sure you aren't doing either of the things I mentioned above, and try turning the weight up a bit, even if it isn't quite as light as you'd like it initially. Get it safe and reliable first, then worry about getting it lighter or replacing it with an aftermarket trigger.

YMMV,

Monte

I've seen it on 2 different savages you don't realize your even sliding it sideways that little bit you can't torque it it's designed to come straight back. David

 

[misterc01]

Thanks - I tested that out - and on mine, the only way that woudl lock it is if I exagerated the angle. I always put my finger pad on the trigger, and then pull straight back.

 

[swe123]

Sounds like the problem is with installing the brake peddle on the excel-orator.

 

[Ace Quackhunter]

I own three rifles with accutrigger and all of them will jam the first stage of the trigger, only once in a while. If you cycle the bolt it unjams. Its all fine now but when it costs me that Monster buck or bull I will probably jump ship on the savages.

Increase trigger pull weight and slowly chamber rounds. Bolt will close and trigger should remain in the cocked position. If not increase trigger pull weight again.

 

[Savage 12BVSS]

I own three rifles with accutrigger and all of them will jam the first stage of the trigger, only once in a while. If you cycle the bolt it unjams. Its all fine now but when it costs me that Monster buck or bull I will probably jump ship on the savages.

Don't dump savage......dump the accutrigger! Only part I remove from every savage I buy, I prefer the rifle basix 2 trigger, No such problems

 

[misterc01]

Added info - When I am shooting the rifle, using the pad of my finger, I gently depress the blade until it inside the trigger slot, then I pull the trigger straight back. It cannot be a sideways press if it goes into the trigger slot, so that is not the issue. I had the "light trigger pull issue" a while back, so I increased the pull from 6 oz to 1 lb (Wheeler trigger pull gauge) and that problem went away. Except for one attempt to chamber the the colt would not close, and I had to use a cleaning rod to get it out, it has been working correctly with the deconstructed round. I wil check the chamber with bore scope to see if something might be in their causing the problem. If clear, I will take it to the range later this week and try them out again. If no go. I wil send it back to Savage. BTW to date getting sub MOA at 600 yards, I know it shoots, so there is no way I would dump my Savage - it is great rifle!.

 

[7magcreedmoor]

I had one accu-trigger model, and no matter what the pull weight, I had to be extremely gentle cycling the bolt or she'd go click onto the safety blade. Maybe I just got a bad one, but a RifleBasix SAV1 is on all my Savages now and they don't do weird stuff no matter how low I set the weight. I can see how the concept is supposed to work, but I think mine just did not have sufficient sear engagement (manufacturing variance) so it went into the dumpster.