Annealing newbie - Anyone tried this DIY annealer?

[OutsideBill]

I've got an EP ^^^^^. Once you get the hang of it, it's easy to use and produces consistent results. For the cost, it's hard to beat. They do run periodic sales.

Thanks for the tip and informed perspective. Since I won't be fully set up for a few weeks at least, I have time to look around if I need to.

 

[southpa]

Thanks for the input, southpa. I do like tinkering. I also don't mind paying another person for their product either, if it's something I need and they're not gouging. I understand a lot of markup on any product has to do with a business or person paying for protection from the inevitable lawsuits that will happen, so I don't think the EP Integration product, or the Annealeez, or any of those are unreasonably priced.

FWIW, I edited my original post way down. I started with a question and a ramble on whether I even needed to anneal since I'm just starting out. My new Speer reloading manual doesn't even mention annealing as something to do in it's steps and processes. That got me thinking about doing it on the cheap, and the drill/torch method seems too uncontrolled for me. I'm already going to be fighting to manage variables in the process. With this setup, I think I will have about as much control as one can get on a flame annealer.

100% !!! I know some very good reloaders/shooters that still anneal with a drill. You're going to hear all sorts of opinions but in the end, nobody can tell you with certainty that your process doesn't work if you've proven accpetable results to YOURESELF! As with anything, there will be a learning curve you will establish and no amount of others opinions will lead you to your findings. Will a $500-$2000 annealer provide better results than a Bean machine? I highly doubt it but then again my results without a $2000 annealer are more than acceptable for me. No need for anything else. Good luck with your journey, my advice is to not overthink stuff, some people put too much effort into things that provide little to no measurable benefit to their actual abilities. The latest and greatest is more of a status in today's world.

 

[MarkInPA]

I started with a question and a ramble on whether I even needed to anneal since I'm just starting out. My new Speer reloading manual doesn't even mention annealing as something to do in it's steps and processes. That got me thinking about doing it on the cheap, and the drill/torch method seems too uncontrolled for me. I'm already going to be fighting to manage variables in the process. With this setup, I think I will have about as much control as one can get on a flame annealer.

I've been down this road of thinking and questioning myself. Almost funny that you have listed many of my own concerns.

I too have only found one reloading manual that briefly mentions the process of annealing. I don't remember which one it was and I have questioned why none of the major reloading manufactures offer a annealing device with their own name on it.

 

[Steve H]

I built a "DIY induction annealer for $200" that I found on YouTube. It works better than anything I've ever used. It is very consistent and quick (2.25 seconds/shell for 280 Ackley Improved). The timer advertised with it is accurate to .01 second. That is the component that makes this unit so amazing. This was designed by a guy at North East Texas Tactical near Crandall, Texas. They were very helpful when I had questions setting up the timer. You're wasting your time building a gas annealer when the home built induction annealer is so easy to build and use. Good luck!

 

[OutsideBill]

I've been down this road of thinking and questioning myself. Almost funny that you have listed many of my own concerns.

I too have only found one reloading manual that briefly mentions the process of annealing. I don't remember which one it was and I have questioned why none of the major reloading manufactures offer a annealing device with their own name on it.

I actually went to several of the reloading manufacturers' websites looking for their annealer. Came up goose eggs. My first thought was they didn't want to impact their sales of brass, but I realized most of them don't make or sell brass.

 

[southpa]

I built a "DIY induction annealer for $200" that I found on YouTube. It works better than anything I've ever used. It is very consistent and quick (2.25 seconds/shell for 280 Ackley Improved). The timer advertised with it is accurate to .01 second. That is the component that makes this unit so amazing. This was designed by a guy at North East Texas Tactical near Crandall, Texas. They were very helpful when I had questions setting up the timer. You're wasting your time building a gas annealer when the home built induction annealer is so easy to build and use. Good luck!

Could you provide a link?

 

[njwoodworker]

Detailed info on YouTube. I followed instructions and worked perfectly.

 

[OutsideBill]

I built a "DIY induction annealer for $200" that I found on YouTube. It works better than anything I've ever used. It is very consistent and quick (2.25 seconds/shell for 280 Ackley Improved). The timer advertised with it is accurate to .01 second. That is the component that makes this unit so amazing. This was designed by a guy at North East Texas Tactical near Crandall, Texas. They were very helpful when I had questions setting up the timer. You're wasting your time building a gas annealer when the home built induction annealer is so easy to build and use. Good luck!

I've looked pretty hard at that option too. I agree the potential for consistency is probably a good bit higher than with a flame annealer. What I'm not excited about is the potential for variables that the YouTuber doesn't discuss. He mentions that the coil shouldn't touch the case, and that a tighter coil will heat faster. But he uses several different coils that vary slightly in shape and uniformity, and he places the coil over the case by hand and in a bit of a rush. So I believe that, even with a well controlled time setting, subsequent rounds might not be as uniformly annealed as one would hope. I would have more faith in the repeatability of the process if the coil and the brass were mechanically positioned. The AMP system does this when the user places the brass in the pilot. They are then forced to deal with heat buildup with a cooling system.

I'm playing with some ideas on how to do this without the inherent heat issues found in the AMP design. I just found this YouTube short that is taking one of the approaches I had in mind. But I would also like to rotate the brass to spread any irregularities even better.

 

[OutsideBill]

Detailed info on YouTube. I followed instructions and worked perfectly.

Instructions for the induction annealer, or the Etsy flame annealer? I haven't seen the latter, but I will look.

 

[njwoodworker]

Just do a search for $200 DIY induction annealer.

 

[OutsideBill]

Just do a search for $200 DIY induction annealer.

Yes, I've watched the induction annealer videos. Thanks for the tips. Good stuff. I may go that route instead of the flame annealer if I can come up with a simple and affordable way to control positioning. I'm not confident I can do it by hand and be consistent.

 

[Sealesniper]

I have a brand new EP that I have never used and don't plan to use. $180 shipped if you are interested. PM me and I cans end you info and pictures.

 

[GoosePilot]

To me annealing is about consistency. Temp, time, and position/portion of the brass that is treated.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

If you can self-build a decent induction annealer for $200, it's surprising that no one has mass manufactured and sold them completed.
I, for one, would like to move away from flame annealing and get an induction model that fits within my budget for an annealer. Right now, the AMP is just too expensive for the number of cases I'd be doing.