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An ongoing review of a Nosler M48 Custom rifle...

In my experience with the Pro Chrono...as long as you set it in the shade or use it on overcast days, and set it up properly, it works just fine...I've had 3 of them over the course of nearly 10 years I guess...shot the first 2, one of them getting downrange velocities (800 yards), the other I plugged with a 45acp...I think I have pics, both were one shot kills.

All 3 were the same...fine in the shade or overcast, junk in the sun.

I found one pic...this the one I got with the 45.

 
Those numbers are accurate enough that I used them to hit a milk jug at 600 yesterday...

As in all things....you'll get a lemon once in a while.
 
Also meant to mention... The Zeiss HD5 performed flawlessly...the tracking is prefect.

I dialed it every which way but loose and it went right back to zero every time... and if I dialed it 18 MOA up, it impacted exactly 18 MOA up.
 
Lapped Talley LW mounts (low), lapped with the Brownells kit, scope leveled with the Wheeler Professional Scope Leveling kit...



 
And don't worry...

That cheapo aluminum cleaning rod never has and never will touch this rifle...I use that for my sons single shot .410, lol...I have a Tipton Carbon Fiber rod for this rifle...and 2 bore guides, a Dewey that works OK but is short (not for scoped rifles, but is usable), and I have a Possum Hollow made just for it on order.
 
Lynn,

Nice review. Blog style works well.

If you get a chance, I would like to see a 5-shot group with your best load.

The photo of the lapped rings is typical of my experience with Talley LW rings. They are not round because the saddle and cap cylinder surfaces are extruded, not machined. They must be lapped to make them cylindrical. Yours look ok. FWIW, I usually lap a bit deeper - just until I score the entire finish over the trough in the bottom of the saddle.

I just compared my Prochrono digital against my CED M2. The Prochrono was 7.1 fps (0.26%) faster on average, but correlated very well with the CED M2. Bryan Litz gave the CED M2 a pretty good review. I'm satisfied with both chronos.

I usually set my chronos in direct sun and get at about 4 out of five good reads. I'll try them the shade - thanks for the tip.
 
Lynn,

Nice review. Blog style works well.

If you get a chance, I would like to see a 5-shot group with your best load.

The photo of the lapped rings is typical of my experience with Talley LW rings. They are not round because the saddle and cap cylinder surfaces are extruded, not machined. They must be lapped to make them cylindrical. Yours look ok. FWIW, I usually lap a bit deeper - just until I score the entire finish over the trough in the bottom of the saddle.

I just compared my Prochrono digital against my CED M2. The Prochrono was 7.1 fps (0.26%) faster on average, but correlated very well with the CED M2. Bryan Litz gave the CED M2 a pretty good review. I'm satisfied with both chronos.

I usually set my chronos in direct sun and get at about 4 out of five good reads. I'll try them the shade - thanks for the tip.

Thank you!

I'll be posting it here whenever I get around to finishing the load development...I'm anxious to see a both a 5 shot group at 100 yards and a 10 shot group at 600.

Please share what you find after trying the ProChrono in the shade...the reason I set my chrono's in the shade is because of an article I read years ago, I forget the author but it had to be somebody worth reading or I wouldn't have read it, lol...in short, the article explained why too much light is no good for optical chrono's... I don't think I've ever had a failure to read with them in the shade.

On the lapping and when to stop...I really don't know if its right or not, just seemed like a logical way to do it to me...I've only lapped 2 set of rings, both sets were Talley...I'm late joining the lapping party, but after dropping that much money on an optic I figured it cannot hurt.

I lapped a bit then put the scope in the bottom halves and looked it over...checking for any ill fitting (visible gaps)...when the fit appeared good and even, I quit lapping...I only lapped the lower half of the rings...if it were heavy duty rings with top halves that are too thick to conform on tightening...I would have lapped both halves.

I did consider using your ring tape...and likely would have...but I sorta forgot to order it, then didn't wanna wait to shoot it.
 
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Found the article...

Chronograph Accuracy Tips – 15 Practical Tips to Increase Accuracy & Reliability | PrecisionRifleBlog.com

You'll get the best readings with even lighting. Best case scenario is overcast skies, and worst is direct sunlight on the skyscreens.

Remove diffusers in overcast or shaded conditions. The diffusers are only necessary in sunny conditions, and by removing them in other conditions you'll allow more light into the chronograph. I leave the diffusers on all the time...

On sunny days place the chronograph in the shadow of a building or opaque wall. Ensure the sensors have a clear view of the sky, but the chronograph itself is in the shade. You could alternatively add sun shields to create a shadow (see Advanced Techniques section for more details). The goal is to eliminate direct sunlight on the chronograph, while still ensuring the sensors have a direct view of the sky. However, avoid placing the chronograph in the shade of a tree. The uneven, dappled sunlight that filters through the tree will cause more problems than it will solve.

Avoid low light conditions, such sunrise and sunset. During those times the extreme low angle of the sun can cause additional issues due to reflections.

Clean skyscreens. If you've used your chronograph more than a dozen times, there is likely a build-up of dust on the sensors. Use a Q-tip or canned air to clean the lenses, being especially careful not to scratch them.

Ensure chronograph is level
 
I have a pro chrono and the magneto speed. Both work well, the pro chrono works in sun or shade but the sun needs to be up. Meaning shooting before sunrise doesnt work too good. Over cast or shade is fine as long as the sun is up. Mine doesn't like changing conditions. I have shot over the magneto and through the pro chrono at the same time with very similar results so for load development I use the pro since it doesn't change the poi.
 


First time this rifle has been hunted gun)

315 yards, quartering away...

I dialed up 1.5 MOA and sent a 160 grain Accubond his way, the bullet hit him just behind the ribcage and you can see the exit in the picture above...he gave a big mule kick when he got hit, turned and ran about 6 steps then stopped, just standing there with his head hung low...he wasn't feeling well but he was still standing....I waited about 5 seconds to see if he was gonna go down then sent him another 160 Accubond...this one hitting about 2 inches in front of and above the exit from the first one, it flattened him and exited the other side not far from where the first bullet entered.

He was dead from the first shot, he just didn't know it yet...it obliterated his liver and just missed the heart on exit...the 2nd shot was a direct hit on the heart.

Decent sized deer, short on horns but good on meat!
 
I don't think I've updated the load data in this thread...

I ditched the MRP, it wasn't behaving properly in the 280 Ackley (did better in the 270's)....I settled on Reloder 26.

Nosler brass
160 grain Nosler Accubond
61 grains of Reloder 26
CCI BR2
3,020 fps ... measured with a MagnetoSpeed.


I love this rifle....if I can see it, I can kill it!

That I know, from hours on the range (working between 300 and 800 yards)...it doesn't shoot one hole, .001 MOA, groups...never has, never will...but it IS a consistent and reliable .5 MOA rifle, with any decent ammo you feed it...that my friends, is a sure sign of quality.
 
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