alternat method without a chrono--- ?

Catbrain

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I dont currently have a chrono---- but I can estimate my velocity from the loading tables by interpolation. What if I just put a target out to say--- 500 yards---- shoot the target----- note the error in holdover and then go back to my drop-velocity- bullet weight tables and use the observed drop at 500 to see which curve I am matching. Then I can use that set of drops to make my range card. Would that get me in the ballpark ?
( I will get a chrono at some point)

I think I read where strelok was no longer available ?????
I thought I would buy a cheap used cell phone (not activated) as a dedicated platform for a ballistic program----- which one is a good basic one if strelok is not available any more ?
 
Strelok is no longer available, you are correct. A lot of people like the Shooter app instead. I've never used it personally.

If you have verified drop at 2 distances you can build your dope card. 3 distances is even better. Velocity doesn't really even matter at that point although you can figure it out easily enough. The only need for velocity in the equation is to make assumptions on where those further dope points will be. If you provide them to the app, is easy math to build a dope chart. Sight in at 100, get your real drop at 300 and 500 (assuming your load is accurate to put a 500 yd group down and not a shotgun pattern) and then us any ballistic app and your presumed velocity to see if the projected drops match you actual. Adjust velocity accordingly. This method relies on an accurate BC, so make sure you're not using some of the inflated factory bc numbers certain mfgs give.
 
Absolutely don't need a chrono. If you are unclear on what was posted above a lot of sites have step by step on this including Snipers Hide. Here's a link to it...just be ready for the chrono 'oh no that won't work' crowd to bust your balls at the range. Until you get done and start down range then they will say 'so tell me how that works again?'

SH calls it Weaponized Math:
 
I dont currently have a chrono---- but I can estimate my velocity from the loading tables by interpolation. What if I just put a target out to say--- 500 yards---- shoot the target----- note the error in holdover and then go back to my drop-velocity- bullet weight tables and use the observed drop at 500 to see which curve I am matching. Then I can use that set of drops to make my range card. Would that get me in the ballpark ?
( I will get a chrono at some point)

I think I read where strelok was no longer available ?????
I thought I would buy a cheap used cell phone (not activated) as a dedicated platform for a ballistic program----- which one is a good basic one if strelok is not available any more ?
Shooter app
 
Confirming velocity by drops is the old school way and it works, but it how well it works often depends on making sure your bc is good, your scope is zeroed well, and your scope tracks well.

If you're unsure about those variables, you can get around them by doing more drop locations.

But yes you can do it, I have no doubt many here have and I know I have
 
Works fine. Used to do it without a chrono for many years. Even with a chrono and "good" velocity data, you still have to validate it for ranges.

Here is an example. You don't have to use their program, (I use the free99 one from the app store). I still print out JBM and add it to excel. Add a separate column for my actual/corrected drop and then go in and update it before I print, laminate, and dummy chord it for field use. Phones die, hard copies are a must.

 
DOPE, or Data of Previous Engagement trumps all apps.

Around here a logging road, a big piece of plywood, and 50 rounds can tell you a lot without a chrono.

I didn't have one for the first 18 years of reloading. Sometimes I think ignorance was bliss because I will catch myself going down the rabbit hole on something because ES wasn't "good enough" even though steel was ringing and deer were dropping.
 
DOPE, or Data of Previous Engagement trumps all apps.

Around here a logging road, a big piece of plywood, and 50 rounds can tell you a lot without a chrono.

I didn't have one for the first 18 years of reloading. Sometimes I think ignorance was bliss because I will catch myself going down the rabbit hole on something because ES wasn't "good enough" even though steel was ringing and deer were dropping.

Cakalaki windage...
 
Shooter or 4DOF are great low cost options. For most shooters shooting box ammo and wanting to start into longer range shooting:
- Get a good zero at 100 yards
- Use the box muzzle velocity and add or subtract 25 fps per inch of barrel length assuming the box value is based on 24"
- Use an app to tell you the drop to 500, dial and shoot a good group.
- Check the difference in drop and adjust velocity in the app to match the amount dialed.
-Then set the turret to the correct drop for 500 and let the 100 yard zero fall where it may. Small error at 100 but a good zero at 500 gives people a lot of confidence.

For more complicated shooting, I use a chrony as a QC/QA on my loads while I shoot for drops based on a true 100 yard zero.
 
Works fine. Used to do it without a chrono for many years. Even with a chrono and "good" velocity data, you still have to validate it for ranges.

Here is an example. You don't have to use their program, (I use the free99 one from the app store). I still print out JBM and add it to excel. Add a separate column for my actual/corrected drop and then go in and update it before I print, laminate, and dummy chord it for field use. Phones die, hard copies are a must.


Looks like that site is for sale and no longer working.
 
DOPE, or Data of Previous Engagement trumps all apps.

Around here a logging road, a big piece of plywood, and 50 rounds can tell you a lot without a chrono.

I didn't have one for the first 18 years of reloading. Sometimes I think ignorance was bliss because I will catch myself going down the rabbit hole on something because ES wasn't "good enough" even though steel was ringing and deer were dropping.

Yep. I spent many years shooting/hunting and even some comp before I ever bought my first 70's model Oehler 12 chrono. Simply shot various ranges and created my own dope cards and used old school book data to adjust for any significant climate/altitude changes. Back then, its what most of us did, and we never new we couldn't hit those targets or game.
 
That will work in setting up targets at give distances. Shooting at least 3 round group. I mean group not something like a shotgun. Note what elevation at 100yds is. You'll need a larger paper or longer paper to show where the bullets are hitting. Log those point in.
I did that a great many years ago. With my 25/06 out to 500yds. At the same time I made target that were or about the size of a deer. I use and still do use a 2x 8 dulpex scope. I learned where to hold that scope crosshairs at different rangest on the target for hold point. to shot and also to determine range that the deer was at.
If your are shooing different rifles, but the velocity in the book is showing the same. That bullet path will almost the same. Now I hold my shots to 500yds and I never missed at those extend range. Not a real long shot, but not bad either. I use the duplex scope on 8 power to range with. See how the target filled the scope up. Out to 300yds I just used the crosshair on the middle of the deer, At 400yds I would elevate the crosshairs to top of back. At 500yds I place the heavy part point at the top of the animal back. In the 400 and 500 yd my grouping was about 4" below the top of the back of the animal with those holds.
 
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