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Advanced loading techniques ????

Hunting cases.
I fire new cases in rifle that is to be used exclusively for those loads. Then deprime/full length resize, trim to length and chamfer inside and outside of case mouth. Fire again, anneal, neck size and load for hunt. Clean primer pockets in between each load.

Load development.
I normally load to maximum length that the magazine allows and maximum powder charge and then work back from there for the TOAL (keeping the powder at maximum) for group.
For the powder load I do a ladder after I have the best TOAL with a maximum powder load.
As far as I can I will always use bench primers. CCI LR bench for 243, 7mm, 300 WSM. Fed 215 LR Mag Gold for 338, 375 and 416.

Bullets
I hunt exclusively with Barnes TTSX from 243 AI, 7mm WSM, 300 WSM, 338 LM (LRX), 375 JRS and 416 Rigby.
 
Why do you full length size, after first shot, and neck size after 3rd? Do you keep neck sizing after that?
 
I full length resize after first shooting because I use a trim to length tool that spaces on the shoulder.
I will neck size for maximum three loads after annealing and then full length resize and anneal again and redo the overall length again.
 
Zerk said:
Though with arthitis in my foot, the scope was higher on the list.

I just picked up a cheap $25 one. Yes I know it is junk. But my home range is 25 yards. When it breaks, I will be ok with it.

So maybe a chrono this year. Though people were doing this before they were affordable.
Click to expand...

True, but we learned what and why. In 1k BR the old 10 match aggs used to be 9.5 inches15 years ago, now they are under 3.5. Not all due to chrono, but in a large degree they are a significant tool.

buy either an Oehler 35 or Ladradar. A new one is one the way out of canada soon also.
 
In response to your seating depth question. Some years ago Berger issued a protocol on their site which dealt with seating depth. I've used it for years now and it's pretty foolproof. They, of course, use it for their bullets, but I have found that it works well with others also. Check their site and if the protocol is no longer there I can email it to you. I've been doing this for 70 years and have found no better answer.
 
BountyHunter said:
True, but we learned what and why. In 1k BR the old 10 match aggs used to be 9.5 inches15 years ago, now they are under 3.5. Not all due to chrono, but in a large degree they are a significant tool.

buy either an Oehler 35 or Ladradar. A new one is one the way out of canada soon also.
Click to expand...

Its on my list. Every time something else comes up.
 
Zerk said:
It's on my list, but not sure this year or not. I want a spotting scope, to save all the walking.
Click to expand...
If you are shooting your test loads at 100 yds, a decent pair of binos are all you need to see bullet holes.
And, a chrono is mandatory for finding out how different charges are affecting your accuracy. You will be surprised at the difference in SD (standard deviation) that 0.1 or 0.2 gr of powder make if you are shooting a high power rifle. It is consistency of muzzle velocity (which is what SD is telling you) that makes for optimal accuracy. And you will find that something less than max MV gives you the lowest SD.
Furthermore, don't waste your money on screen type chronos. They are dinosaurs.
Look at the multiple threads here on the LRH newsletter re Magneto Speed and Lab Radar chronos. I bought Magneto Speed before Lab Radar came out. But would now buy the Lab Radar, to eliminate the minor hassle of attaching the bayonet to my muzzle.
 
Tulsa Reiner said:
If you are shooting your test loads at 100 yds, a decent pair of binos are all you need to see bullet holes.
And, a chrono is mandatory for finding out how different charges are affecting your accuracy. You will be surprised at the difference in SD (standard deviation) that 0.1 or 0.2 gr of powder make if you are shooting a high power rifle. It is consistency of muzzle velocity (which is what SD is telling you) that makes for optimal accuracy. And you will find that something less than max MV gives you the lowest SD.
Furthermore, don't waste your money on screen type chronos. They are dinosaurs.
Look at the multiple threads here on the LRH newsletter re Magneto Speed and Lab Radar chronos. I bought Magneto Speed before Lab Radar came out. But would now buy the Lab Radar, to eliminate the minor hassle of attaching the bayonet to my muzzle.
Click to expand...

I tried looking this up and kept coming up with long complex calculations so could you tell me what the formula is for finding SD? Say you have 5 shots of 2925, 2935, 2940, 2942 and 2950. I know the ES is 25 but what would the SD be?
 
A chronograph is a wonderful piece of gear but absolutely not essential, put your money into quality components like Lapua brass and quality dies. Loading is very basic but oh so easy to make complicated, the farther you shoot the more critical you need to be but if your just starting out and your goals are not 2000 yards then don't go nuts, learn the fundamentals, buy high quality basic tools and build up from there.

I develop load for elr rifles weekly, my shop kit is a Forester Co-Ax press, a Scott Parker tuned balance scale, Redding type S dies, hand crank case trimmer, small misc tools for primer pockets and debur, Browne and sharp micrometer and caliper and twice during reloading I'll put a Magnetospeed on, first to watch velocity while finding pressure and the second time will be for the average speed going into a ballistic program. I have many more presses and tools coming out of every where but this basic kit gets it done with little waste of effort!!!
 
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