Action Puller for Removing Actions During Bedding

[barnesuser28]

You might consider putting a small radius or tiny bevel on the bottom edges so that nothing sharp or square ever touches the stock. If you look at the photo of Chad's tool, his appear radiused.

The actual product will at the very least have a chamfer, possibly a corner radius. It is easier to put that chamfer in CAM rather than modeling it in CAD.

 

[Bullet bumper]

Won't muck up Riley's thread arguing the point but loose bedding jobs are good business especially with brakes rifles!!

It's not going to be loose and is the standard way bench rest 700 actions are bedded.
If the lug is fully bedded around you risk damaging the bedding pulling it out .

 

[bigngreen]

It's not going to be loose and is the standard way bench rest 700 actions are bedded.
If the lug is fully bedded around you risk damaging the bedding pulling it out .

I can tell you one of the best bench gun builders who is a good friend and neighbor does not bed any gun that way, his guns set two IBS records last year two the year before as well as took top place at nationals, if an action just popped out he'd mill it out and start over!!

 

[barnesuser28]

Here is what i have in mind, one kit that comes with one handle, an action bar, the ] bracket, an oil impregnated bronze bushing, and the base pieces with a single top plate for remington 700 sized actions included. Different sized top plates will be available for different size actions (top two images).

The other kit would include two handles, two oil impregnated bronze bushings, two picatinny rail mounts, the base pieces, and a single top plate for remington 700 sized actions. Again, different size top plates will be available to accommodate all actions. Also, depending on what kind of volume i am selling i might have them sent out for anodizing.

Please share any thoughts/constructive criticisms you might have!

NOTE: the top plate is attached to the two sides by 8 QTY 8-32 socket head cap screws

 

[WapitiBob]

The dia of the verticle part of the handle is too narrow and will fold in the slotted top plate with little force needed, from a first glance. I think you need to spread the load out closer to the vertical side rails , washer might do it.

 

[Edd]

I don't think the handles are needed. I would prefer a standard hex nut and stud from the hardware store. You might make a big flat washer to go under the nut.

 

[Bullet bumper]

I can tell you one of the best bench gun builders who is a good friend and neighbor does not bed any gun that way, his guns set two IBS records last year two the year before as well as took top place at nationals, if an action just popped out he'd mill it out and start over!!

I bet he does quite a bit of milling then. I think you are just making up stuff .
The actions don't just pop out without some force but winching tools should not be required unless it's done wrong but could be very useful in an emergency . We are talking about a clearance of the thickness of a piece of tape in the right places not a huge gap. Extra release agent can do a similar thing but it sometime makes for a air holes .

 

[barnesuser28]

Material was delivered today so i will try to get a prototype knocked out tomorrow. I will upload pics if it turns out presentable lol. I have a .28 Nosler action to bed in the next month or two so i will give it a test drive then and possibly get some video.

 

[bigngreen]

Using the puller is absalutely not for pulling a stuck action in an emergency as the stock will yield before the epoxy, heat an action wrench up and put it in the action and let it warm the epoxy and they pop right out, it the best way to remove glue ins.
Nice steady square pressure to remove a properly bedded stock just makes it easy, Riley's tool would be a very nice addition to anyone's bedding table.

 

[Edd]

We are talking about a clearance of the thickness of a piece of tape in the right places not a huge gap.

What are the places where you put the tape?

 

[barnesuser28]

I got the prototype made up today, i decided to make a design change and make the top plate wider with two sets of holes in order to make it more modular without having to order/make another top plate if you wish to make the puller wider for larger actions. I think it turned out really great! A couple small tweaks and i will make a small production run of 8-10 pullers in the next week or so and get them up on my website (link in signature). Im not 100% set on price yet but it will easily be under $150. I made the bolt in this picture but actual production parts will come with a "hardware store" grade 8 flanged hex head screw and 8, 8-32 socket head cap screws to mount the side plates to the top plate.

 

[bigngreen]

Could you slot the screw holes so we could just slide the sides in or out vs extra holes, also a 3/4 hex instead of square so a box end wrench will just sit there and not fall of and bounce of a stock when its fumbled.

 

[Edd]

I prefer holes vs slots. I would also prefer a hex nut. Any size hex is ok but if I could have any size I wanted it would be a 9/16".

 

[barnesuser28]

Could you slot the screw holes so we could just slide the sides in or out vs extra holes, also a 3/4 hex instead of square so a box end wrench will just sit there and not fall of and bounce of a stock when its fumbled.

I am worried about structural integrity if they were slots vs holes. I would hate for someone not to tighten the screws tight enough and have the sides spread out while in use and damage a nice stock.

I prefer holes vs slots. I would also prefer a hex nut. Any size hex is ok but if I could have any size I wanted it would be a 9/16".

It will come with a 9/16" grade 8 flanged hex bolt along with a 1/8" thick oil impregnated bronze washer to prevent galling.




Is anodizing something that you guys would be interested in? It would definitely raise the price but the advantages would be increased scratch and corrosion resistance and the ability to make them in fancy colors lol.