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Accurate load falls apart after 100

You got me double thinking purchasing a beautiful Christensen Ridgeline in 6.5 PRC!!! I've heard both good and bad but yes everyone here are claiming SUB .5 MOA ... I have a rifle being made right now but I'm impatient the reason for drooling over that Ridgeline every night!! Maybe I should just wait for my rifle to be finished
I don't want to talk you out of anything. Both of the rifles that I have had in my hands were 300rum.
 
not a novice. ran into something I haven't seen before. Long story short..fired 3 diff bullets today out of the same cases, same primer, same powder just testing and playing. 26 Nosler 140 smks, 135 atips, 143 eldxs, smks and atips under 1/2 moa at 100 eldxs just over 1/2 moa. Took the smks and eldxs out to 250 and they both opened up to 4". As a control for wind we shot groups at 250 with a 243 and 6.5x47 that shot well. Anybody seen this before? Couldn't test the atips as I didn't load enough but the smks have consistently shot 1/2 or better at 100. I'm going to try them again but I'm curious if anyone else has come across this. Thanks
No expert here but... ran into an issue similar to this. Turned out to be scope parallax issue. Just an FYI.
 
I have seen this happen where things were sub MOA at 100 and a total wreck at distance.
My son had a rifle rebarreled by prominent gun smith and reputable barrel manufacturer.
After repeating multiple test loads/powder/bullets different scope etc. he took it back and they bore scoped it. It had a 2" section towards end of barrel where the lands had been rolled over or flattened out. Barrel manf. didn't believe it so they had to send it in - company sent a new barrel.
So I'd have it bore scoped - it won't cost you a dime.
 
Yup, I would investigate this road. What you need is a water tank to capture. No anyone with a pool? Ha! You really need to examine that pill after its been extruded and that bore.
 
You need to forget about shooting at close range unless that's all that's available. You can find tons of info on the web about bullets needing to "go to sleep." This happens in the first 300 yards or so. I learned this lesson years ago with Berger VLD's, it's better to tune your rifle at 300 yards or more. Groups may seem large at 100 or 200 yards but who cares? Berger has an article on that as well.
I just tuned a 30 Nosler yesterday at 400 yards. At 200 it's around a 1 MOA gun. At 400 it's .5 with 1" of vertical. Just shot drops at 810 and 1114 yards this morning, scary accurate with less than 2" of vertical in either of those groups. Again, don't get hung up on anything inside of 300 yards.
Unless it's a hunting rifle, PRS rifle, whatever, you should be able to zero at 100 yds after sight in and easily fill it in with a ballistic calculator to its lethal/intended range (steel, targets, etc..) shooting out and adjusting the BC, FPS, etc...) maybe I missed something in the post, no ill will meant I assure you, but is this a hunting gun or target gun?
 
Unless it's a hunting rifle, PRS rifle, whatever, you should be able to zero at 100 yds after sight in and easily fill it in with a ballistic calculator to its lethal/intended range (steel, targets, etc..) shooting out and adjusting the BC, FPS, etc...) maybe I missed something in the post, no ill will meant I assure you, but is this a hunting gun or target gun?
Technically I guess it's a hunting rifle but in my eyes the issues I'm having would irritate anyone with any gun. I have a lot of experience and this is just an odd situation I've never ran into. I assure you and everyone else reading this that I may not be a pro competition shooter but I can hold my own and am very knowledgeable on long range shooting. Until I can test more I'm stumped on this one. For now.
 
Technically I guess it's a hunting rifle but in my eyes the issues I'm having would irritate anyone with any gun. I have a lot of experience and this is just an odd situation I've never ran into. I assure you and everyone else reading this that I may not be a pro competition shooter but I can hold my own and am very knowledgeable on long range shooting. Until I can test more I'm stumped on this one. For now.

I can assure you, that I am not in any way a competitive shooter. I completely understand your frustration. I have been there also. I am only trying to help. I know something is absolutely wrong though, when your groups go wrong from a certain point and you are unable to account for it. But, technically if you can not resolve it by a recognized program, applied ballistics, etc.... time to go back to the drawing board if it technically a "hunting rifle". Look at everything. Scope, rings, barrel, twist, etc... maybe you got a bad lot of bullets, powder, primer, brass, whatever the case may be. You stress that you are experienced. Maybe you are overthinking stuff?
 
I can assure you, that I am not in any way a competitive shooter. I completely understand your frustration. I have been there also. I am only trying to help. I know something is absolutely wrong though, when your groups go wrong from a certain point and you are unable to account for it. But, technically if you can not resolve it by a recognized program, applied ballistics, etc.... time to go back to the drawing board if it technically a "hunting rifle". Look at everything. Scope, rings, barrel, twist, etc... maybe you got a bad lot of bullets, powder, primer, brass, whatever the case may be. You stress that you are experienced. Maybe you are overthinking stuff?
I suppose that's possible too. I've been in this game a long time so I've gone through all the basics before I posted this. Here's what I know. Powder I assume is good. Shoots great in other rifles, as with the primer batch. I'm guessing it's not bullets because it's done it with 2 diff kinds. Brass is quality, ruling out the scope and mounts as I've checked them and can't believe a loose part would allow 1/2 moa at 100 anyway. Bore was cleaned prior to that last session and is done routinely. Rifle is new as well as the glass. Twist is meant for the bullets I'm shooting. Same bags used that I shoot all my rifles from and I shoot them well. It wasn't environmental as I shot other guns as a control. I do appreciate the input. I'll figure this out at some point.
 
I think the rifle is just new. I don't expect too much from mine until they have 150 rounds on them.
What scope do you have? Got a good Chronograph? If you are printing good groups at 100 but they fall apart at distance that is typically shooter error, atmospherics or ammo but you won't see ES or SD effect that until 600 maybe even further depending on the speed of the cartridge
 
not a novice. ran into something I haven't seen before. Long story short..fired 3 diff bullets today out of the same cases, same primer, same powder just testing and playing. 26 Nosler 140 smks, 135 atips, 143 eldxs, smks and atips under 1/2 moa at 100 eldxs just over 1/2 moa. Took the smks and eldxs out to 250 and they both opened up to 4". As a control for wind we shot groups at 250 with a 243 and 6.5x47 that shot well. Anybody seen this before? Couldn't test the atips as I didn't load enough but the smks have consistently shot 1/2 or better at 100. I'm going to try them again but I'm curious if anyone else has come across this. Thanks
I believe I found the issue. Parallax was out of alignment. I know I set it but it must've got moved. Thanks for all the relplies
 
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