A Serious Question

I
my learning curve came from shooting two kimbers, a montana and a hunter. a 257 roberts and a 7mm08, not big kickers, but very fussy what you fed them and how you held them.
I zeroed a very light Kimber 270 with a muzzle brake not to long ago for a friend. I couldn't get done quick enough and I sure won't shoot another one like it. It was a slick handling little gun but the recoil and noise were awful. I zeroed a 30-06 Winchester featherweight without a brake and a 300 Win. Mag Ruger American with a brake the following day and found both to be pleasant in comparison.
 
Mine is my trued and switch barrel Kimber 8400 Select in 300WM, weighs 8.5lbs scoped, loaded and prints 3/4MoA with 180g Accubonds or 200g Accubonds.
Extremely accurate for it's skinny barrel, but it's no target rifle.

I would accept 1MoA accuracy in a lightweight hunting rifle any day from hunting positions.

Cheers.
 
I think a 6.5x284 in sporter contour on any action, with 120-156 class bullets @3/4 moa would be great for this application

Full disclosure.....I built this exact rifle and love it, amd while carrying it, I tell myself that this rig (1/2 moa) is very capable on deer, ELK, and bear at your stated distance of 600 yds.
 
I realize there are a large number of exceptional shooters on this forum or at least this is what I read. To me a 600 yard shot is not a chip shot. The rifle needs to be at or under 1 MOA to be used in this hunting scenario IMO. Like many, I want to remove equipment issues out of the equation as much as possible. This is the main reason I started reloading. I personally don't spend a significant amount of time trying to create a perfect shooting platform from the bench or shooting prone using equipment I will not have in the hunting grounds. I have come to the conclusion that if I can get my rifle to consistently to print 1 MOA or slightly better groups from hunting style rests, I am very happy.
 
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