Here is my dilema I bought a Cadex brake for my 300Wby. The muzzle diameter on my Sako is .640 will a 5/8x24 thread work in this set up? The Cadex brake can be tightened with a screw that cinches the threads tight. In their instructions they mention turning the brake out to level it then tighten the sdrew to 45 inch pounds. Will this work or do I need a different brake?
A muzzle brake question.
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J E Custom
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5/8 threads need .625 diameter for major diameter. your barrel is .640
leaving only .015 thousandths for the shoulder that the brake seats on.
The muzzle wall thickness will be only .100 thousandths thick and in my opinion to thin for the pressure.
Even though I don't particularly like the clamp on brakes they are a solution for these circumstances.
J E CUSTOM
leaving only .015 thousandths for the shoulder that the brake seats on.
The muzzle wall thickness will be only .100 thousandths thick and in my opinion to thin for the pressure.
Even though I don't particularly like the clamp on brakes they are a solution for these circumstances.
J E CUSTOM
Canhunter35
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http://www.grizzlygunworks.com/
I used one of these clamp on brakes on my sako 300wby, exact same muzzle diameter. It's worked great! Jeff's really good to deal with too, I've got 3 of his brakes.
He's cdn so no issue getting one
I used one of these clamp on brakes on my sako 300wby, exact same muzzle diameter. It's worked great! Jeff's really good to deal with too, I've got 3 of his brakes.
He's cdn so no issue getting one
I am no gunsmith by any means, but I have a sporter 30-06 barrel with a .65 muzzle threaded to 5/8 and added a Little Bastard brake. The brake is much bigger in diameter from barrel, and not much shoulder, but seems to function just fine. Not sure if I would put a suppressor on it though, not much shoulder.
Tagging on
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sable tireur
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When you work through the math outlined above, you have the 15 thousandths left but that is the diameter so each side of the circle will only have 7-1/2 thousandths to seat against. That's 0.015" as JEC states divided by 2 = 0.0075". I wouldn't suggest relying on this small amount of shoulder for anything.
When you suggest the clamping action, it is applied to the threads so the gripping action is on the threads which will act as the recoil lug so to speak. That may work but that's not what we rely on threads for. A solid seat against a wide enough shoulder is always the best.
When you suggest the clamping action, it is applied to the threads so the gripping action is on the threads which will act as the recoil lug so to speak. That may work but that's not what we rely on threads for. A solid seat against a wide enough shoulder is always the best.
Cadex seems to recomend backing this brake out from completely tight to a wall or shoulder. The screw on the bottom is used to pull the threads tight togher and hold the brake level to the action.
I can get a half x28 thread brake but would that not take to much out of the barrel wall. .5 with a .308 hole in the middle I fear would be a little thin.
Have any here used a Cadex brake or an Insite Heathen brake. The reason I ask is the Heathen can be obtained in a smaller thread of 1/2x 28 if I need to go that way.
I can get a half x28 thread brake but would that not take to much out of the barrel wall. .5 with a .308 hole in the middle I fear would be a little thin.
Have any here used a Cadex brake or an Insite Heathen brake. The reason I ask is the Heathen can be obtained in a smaller thread of 1/2x 28 if I need to go that way.
sable tireur
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I just order one for my ELR .375 barrel. It's 7/8"x24 for the larger muzzle diameter and the larger caliber. I did read their suggestion about leveling the brake then tightening the screw for the clamping action. But if you are 1/2 a turn off from level the gap between the shoulder and the back of the brake will be almost 0.022" which I find unacceptable. I'll simply time mine.
Canhunter I looked uo Jeff's site I may do that route for my 300Wby. Which brings me to another question. How much larger then the bullet does the hole in a brake need to be? The hole in my Cadex brake is .380 will that work with a.338 rifle. If it will I can use the Cadex on my 33 Nosler build.
Canhunter35
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I believe .030" is enough, but would check with a gunsmith to be sure.
I have the grizzly brake with a noise redirector, I've found I shoot it better with the noise redirector off for full recoil reduction, but either way helps substantially.
