A hot topic, how do you get a hot piece of brass

[6pakzak]

Doesn't mean annealing is not making better rounds, means you are not using your annealer

 

[6pakzak]

And yes I'm looking for the best bullets I can make, bullet straightness doesn't matter, annealing doesn't matter, is there anything else you would like to cut out of the equation?

 

[6pakzak]

Certainly make things easier for everyone

 

[6pakzak]

Think I posted this in wrong place, all apologies

 

[rsbhunter]

I did flame annealing for the last couple years...built the machine that spins the case and drops it out , feeds another etc. Got great results....just a week ago, bought the handheld induction annealer (heater) and timer as shown on YouTube "DIY induction annealer". Of course I'm working on a water cooling system for the coil, have bought copper wire and tubing to make new coils with, and am working on an auto drop system. The results make my flame annealer seem outdated.....the cases come out exactly the same, every time, from batch to batch, case to case. The problem with flame is that I don't believe the flame is exact enough temp wise and distance wise to be repeatable enough. The Flame machine cost me probably $100.00-125.00 to build. The annealed I'm into $250. Probably another $10-$25 and I'll have it complete, to what I want....I was using it as soon as the brown truck left it as it came, and it is a great improvement over flame. However, if money is a limit, flame still gets it done....rsbhunter

 

[RWE]

I have been using a propane torch and I use a metronome to keep count a....

I use a metronome app on my phone due to squirrels...

 

[rsbhunter]

Was that 5 seconds, or 8....why is my brass glowing , the suns out....oh, look..........

 

[SWHandldr]

I have been using a propane torch and I use a metronome to keep count and I sit the case on a pocket uniformer, holds the case straight so it don't wobble around like in a socket, sacrificed some old cases to get my timing right although I got some red hot and loaded a dummy round to see if it still holds the bullet with enough tension and seems like it does, just looking at Annie to be more consistent although Im getting consistent shoulder bumps and my neck tension feels the same after I anneal, also found with thicker cases like Lapua I have to add about a second.

All the above says what you're doing works.

My experience is that if you're annealing the neck 'enough' that over annealing causes no harm - SO LONG AS you're avoiding 1) melting / distorting the neck and 2) overheating the case head thereby compromising its strength.

Overheating the head via rotating cases in a propane flame would be really difficult *without* melting the neck. Not impossible - The Lord allows fools to exist - but one would have to be ham fisted or careless to a fault. Reloaders meeting that description are at risk in a variety of ways, never mind annealing.

A rule of thumb for 'enough' IME is seeing the case mouth & shoulder ju
tles for the price of the least costly induction annealer. Probly anneal ten's of thousands of cases.

st begin to glow in a darkened room, regardless of the heating method. You can buy many propane bot

Metronome use adds consistency to the process. Without being there to watch, adding about a second for thicker cases sounds 'about right.' From your description your present process seems to be working. If it ain't broke it don't need fixin'.

At present, is my definitive online source of annealing knowledge online. IIRC, he's a metallurgist by trainingand provides a methodical (and *well explained*) take on annealing.

Built his own induction annealer but in this case (no pun) it ain't how you get there - it's the destination.

 

[rsbhunter]

I've watched all of his annealing videos, which is why I went with an induction heater....he explains how temp AND duration of applied heat determines reaching the "grain realignment" stage. If I remember correctly, he says that you need approximately 900°to 1000° for a few seconds to reach that stage...with a induction tool, I can get my necks and shoulders to dull red(and beyond) within 3-5 seconds depending on case size, brand, and coil/case fit. On top of that, I can usually handle the base of the case in a couple of seconds, indicating that the heat doesn't migrate to the case head/web area as much as it did when I was flame annealing. I know flame annealing works, I used it. But the induction is a much more precise and repeatable method....I'm retired, and watch my money closely, so I can't throw money at things that don't work....that why I shoot Savage Target rifles instead of custom Bat action, McMillan stock, Bix and Andy triggered rifles....but if I could, I would...there IS a reason they cost more....rsbhunter

 

[Greyfox]

I use a gas flame. Really like my Bench Source, which I have owned for several years.

 

[6pakzak]

All the above says what you're doing works.

My experience is that if you're annealing the neck 'enough' that over annealing causes no harm - SO LONG AS you're avoiding 1) melting / distorting the neck and 2) overheating the case head thereby compromising its strength.

Overheating the head via rotating cases in a propane flame would be really difficult *without* melting the neck. Not impossible - The Lord allows fools to exist - but one would have to be ham fisted or careless to a fault. Reloaders meeting that description are at risk in a variety of ways, never mind annealing.

A rule of thumb for 'enough' IME is seeing the case mouth & shoulder ju
tles for the price of the least costly induction annealer. Probly anneal ten's of thousands of cases.

st begin to glow in a darkened room, regardless of the heating method. You can buy many propane bot

Metronome use adds consistency to the process. Without being there to watch, adding about a second for thicker cases sounds 'about right.' From your description your present process seems to be working. If it ain't broke it don't need fixin'.

At present, is my definitive online source of annealing knowledge online. IIRC, he's a metallurgist by trainingand provides a methodical (and *well explained*) take on annealing.

Built his own induction annealer but in this case (no pun) it ain't how you get there - it's the destination.

So many people say if you can dent the mouth of the case after annealing with your nail that you have gone to far, is this true?

 

[rsbhunter]

I have heard something to that effect, I thought it was if you can deform the neck by squeezing between finger and thumb, but same principal....rsbhunter

 

[Taylorbok]

So many people say if you can dent the mouth of the case after annealing with your nail that you have gone to far, is this true?

I can't say I've ever heard that before but there is tons of videos online showing you how to set your flame/ time with the glow method that over annealing shouldn't be an issue at all.

 

[gruising]

I bought an Annie a few years ago and just love it. Very fast. You have to figure out how to cool the coil and move the brass yourself. I used a small CPU water cooler with a fan to cool the coil, Very easy to do. I made a small 'trap door' to drop the brass into a wire basket after annealing. Just after I got the thing a transistor blew and it was fixed asap and returned, no cost. Hasn't skipped a beat since. I do everything from .223 up to 338 Lapua with no effort. I still use a flame to do 50BMG brass as mine doesn't have enough power for long enough to do them. Most of my cases use from 1.5 to 4 seconds/case. I have processed 200 .223 cases in one go with no problems. It is NOT a turn key system like the AMP but it costs way less. No other stuff to buy when switching cases. Mine is always set up and I can be annealing in a minute or two. If I had it all to do over again, i'd still buy the Annie.