7mm Ultra Mag...180 Berger...Need Data

I am looking for exactly the same load combo in the same gun and was wondering about H1000 Or Imr7828 since i have alot of both powders but not sure where to start?

Sorry i hope this isnt high jacking your thread , just lookin for info too
 
Yes I agree that Quickload may be 15-20% off, thought in my experiens it's usually less that 10%. But bullistics calculation are accurate and show insignificant advantages having 3000 FPS load vs. 2920FPS.

And as been sad - less sterss on barrel, cartriges, better safety. just an opinion...


Don't take me wrong quickload can be and is a good tool. I still beg for friends that have it to help me with starting loads. And yes I agree with ballistic calculations statement.
 
yeah, it's a good tool and combined with barrel harmonics calculator can get you started on new load at no time. Let me know if I can help.
 
Well I ran some numbers on patagonia ballistics load base and even though I am going 2930 fps with the 180 berger it doesnt go subsonic untill 2000 yards. Understand this is info from a very good ballistics calculator so I am no going to guarantee it to be exact. This gun will be limited to 1200 yards simply because that is as far as my range goes. At 1200 yards the round is at about 1660 fps with approx 1100 ftlbs of energy. If the gun will shoot my current load accurately at (less than 1 moa). I probally wont change a thing. I dont see any real advantages of going 100 to 200 fps faster other than shooting a little flatter. With the current velocity I am going the barrel might last a little longer as well. I need to get out and shoot at distance to see how this thing groups. Let me say again all of the number I am giving in this post other than the velocity from my load which I chronographed is from load base 3.0. I am very happy with this ballistics software. On my 308 winchester the first time I used the software it was within one 1/4 minute click at 1000 yards compared to my load developed range card. which I thought was unbelivably accurate.
 
one more thing just in case - while hunting the first shoot counts and that is cold bore. So scope your rifle accordingly....half MOA difference between hot vs. cold bore @100 can be kill or miss @ 600
 
I know that there is a mystery about cold bore shots. Here is my experience and take on it. First off I am going to say that I have 3 rifles that I have experienced this on. The first is an dpms lr 308, a remington r5 308, and the current on on this thread the 7rum in a sendero. They all three have stainless barrels. After I do my break in period with the gun I use nothing but sweets 7.62 solvent and rem gun oil to clean it spotless. I use bore guides and only nylon bore brushes. After the gun is 100 percent clean. I use JB bore cleaner to make sure. After that I JB bore bright the ever living crap out of the gun. These three rifles will put the cold bore shot in the exact place as a round that is shot 20 rounds later. And remeber all three guns have factory barrels. I treat my other stainless guns with aftermarket barrels the same way. And they perform just as well if not better. Now here is the kicker...my chromoly steel barrels dont react the same. Actually I have 2 guns that wont group at all with a clean barrel. One of them takes 50 rounds before it will shoot 1 moa and the cold bore shot will be 1 in high and right from the rest at 100 yards. I have never figured this out why the stainless reacts so much different than the chromoly steel. And another thing while im on here....my polished factory stainless barrels will **** near shoot with my kriegers, harts, and shilens. I kind of got off topic here but........anyway
 
im here in the texas panhandle where we have extreme weather. From 100+ in the summer to 0- in the winter. Maybe Im just lucky...I dont know
 
Warning! This thread is more than 15 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top