7mm STW Brotherhood - For those who shoot the 7mm Shooting Times Westerner

I determinded years ago to forget the belt or rim is there and ajust your die for shoulder bump. I have competed in the benchrest group game for 20+ years and go through 1 to 4 barrels a year. Most gunsmiths are good but get the headspace off between .001 to .003. between barrels. Most guys have a set of shims you get from Sinclair International you use to ajust from barrel to barrel on the same action. We get very precise but I transfer the type of loading to my hunting rifles. The shims go under the die ring and make sizing for many barrels easy with the same die. In my game I have won and lost by .oo1 to .002 in the grand ag so it is a very precise sport. I don't want to confuse any one so just do what STW says. Thank you I love this form along with the one on BENCHREST CENTRAL.
Brush

Brush, I am familiar with those shims you referred to, and I think I still have a set of them somewhere. They are handy, and work very well, and enables the use of one die, even if you have multiple rifles in the same caliber. All you have to do is know, and remember what shims to use with , which gun.
I think how I used them, was to set the die to full cam over, and start with more shims then you need. Then progressively remove shims until you see, or can measure a difference in the shoulder .
I do agree, that the case really should only headspace on the belt for it's first firing, then from that point, you adjust your dies accordingly to headspace on the shoulder, at what ever measurement you find that your gun and brass will tolerate.
Where I see most issues arise, is how much does it stretch on it's first firing, and how forgiving the brass is to that stretch. So it makes it very important to get that initial die adjustment on the money to keep the shoulder from having to keep slamming into the chamber, and then get pushed back TOO FAR, creating the weak spot that eventually, or better put, SOONER then later, fail, or unleash 80 odd grains of slow burning powder gasses, which we all know what that does. People get hurt, and chambers are damaged or trashed.
Good info being discussed here!
 
Brush, I am familiar with those shims you referred to, and I think I still have a set of them somewhere. They are handy, and work very well, and enables the use of one die, even if you have multiple rifles in the same caliber. All you have to do is know, and remember what shims to use with , which gun.
I think how I used them, was to set the die to full cam over, and start with more shims then you need. Then progressively remove shims until you see, or can measure a difference in the shoulder .
I do agree, that the case really should only headspace on the belt for it's first firing, then from that point, you adjust your dies accordingly to headspace on the shoulder, at what ever measurement you find that your gun and brass will tolerate.
Where I see most issues arise, is how much does it stretch on it's first firing, and how forgiving the brass is to that stretch. So it makes it very important to get that initial die adjustment on the money to keep the shoulder from having to keep slamming into the chamber, and then get pushed back TOO FAR, creating the weak spot that eventually, or better put, SOONER then later, fail, or unleash 80 odd grains of slow burning powder gasses, which we all know what that does. People get hurt, and chambers are damaged or trashed.
Good info being discussed here!

Is this what you are talking about in regards to shims?

Redding Competition Shellholder Set #6 (7mm Remington Mag 300

I got a set of these last month and I really like them!
 
Is this what you are talking about in regards to shims?

Redding Competition Shellholder Set #6 (7mm Remington Mag 300

I got a set of these last month and I really like them!

Gamehawker, if we are talking about the same thing, those are not the ones I was referring to. The ones I am talking about are round flat discs that have the thickness stamped on them. They resemble a washer, and it fits around the die, and is sandwiched between the die nut, and the top of the press.
I believe these are what " brush" was referring to also, at least I think so.
 
Gamehawker, STW is right. I have the shims and the competition shell holders but I use the shims because you can work in closer tolerances. With my STW rifle the reamer I have puts the shoulder so far forward the thickest shell holder isn't enough to keep the shoulder from being pushed back. I only have one STW so I just set my die and forget about it. I have a set of the comp shell holders for .308 type cases that I use for my many rifles that use that type. You would be surprised the differance among the factory rifles. Savages are great because you can loosen the barrel nut and set the barrel to any head space you want. Next weekend I start the benchrest competition circut for the summer which I truly love competing with the best in the world at Kelbly's range in Ohio and other ranges in the north east. Take care all.
Brush
 
Here's a shout out to brother 7stw for sending me the bullets I was having a hard time getting. THANKS BOB!

Bob, no problem, and glad to help out a Bro, from the Hood. Like you said, hook up with Black Sheep. He got them to shoot in his. As I stated in our PM, the added speed will increase the RPM's on the bullet, and even though it is the same twist the 7 Mag is. Additionally, I have chatted with a few guys, that ARE shooting them in the STW, and they are very accurate in THAT setup.
As a sideline, I would NOT have a problem shooting an elk with the 145 LRX bullet for that matter. It actually nearly has the mass of a 160 grainer. But what it dosen't have in weight, it makes up for in speed, and boy, does it open up! Enjoy my friend!!!:)
 
Bob, no problem, and glad to help out a Bro, from the Hood. Like you said, hook up with Black Sheep. He got them to shoot in his. As I stated in our PM, the added speed will increase the RPM's on the bullet, and even though it is the same twist the 7 Mag is. Additionally, I have chatted with a few guys, that ARE shooting them in the STW, and they are very accurate in THAT setup.
As a sideline, I would NOT have a problem shooting an elk with the 145 LRX bullet for that matter. It actually nearly has the mass of a 160 grainer. But what it dosen't have in weight, it makes up for in speed, and boy, does it open up! Enjoy my friend!!!:)

Interestingly, I spoke with the guys at RedHawk Rifles a while back and they had worked up a load for a customer they built a rifle for that was almost identical to the load Black Sheep settled on. Said it was super accurate with very low ES. Anyway, if the 168 LRX & Retumbo don't give me the accuracy I expect, my next try will be the 145 LRX.
 
Looks like I am a late arrival on this thread, but I can't resist the chance to discuss the STW. I picked up mine in 2000, a Sako 75 with composite stalk and 26" barrel. Since then it has been my go to rifle for everything Elk, Antelope, Bear, Whitetail, and of course Mule Deer. I have not found a better cartridge for hunting the high country.

I have heard some people say the cartridge is going extinct. Still my friends that shoot the RUM's and Weatherby's drool over my STW.

Thanks for keeping this great cartridge going. I look forward to the discussion.
 
Looks like I am a late arrival on this thread, but I can't resist the chance to discuss the STW. I picked up mine in 2000, a Sako 75 with composite stalk and 26" barrel. Since then it has been my go to rifle for everything Elk, Antelope, Bear, Whitetail, and of course Mule Deer. I have not found a better cartridge for hunting the high country.

I have heard some people say the cartridge is going extinct. Still my friends that shoot the RUM's and Weatherby's drool over my STW.

Thanks for keeping this great cartridge going. I look forward to the discussion.

I agree with ya Idaho Muley. Nothin better than a STW!
 
Top