7mm STW Brotherhood - For those who shoot the 7mm Shooting Times Westerner

[Lefty7mmstw]

What was your fireforming load?

I necked them down in steps. 35/33/30/then 7.

A lot of work, but it is good to know I have options. I have used 8mm mag before, but it is rarer then 7STW.

A start load of h4831 in the 7stw section of the hodgdon data. According to their current manual online it would be 75grains with a 120.
Either 30 cal(a 300 win die set long) or 338 ( a 338 win die set long) will suffice on its own for an intermediate step; I've done both. Just set the shoulder to the correct spot and go for it. You will probably have to trim them afterward to square 'em up.

 

[SFR292]

I've done a lot of fire forming using trailboss powder. Does really well and allows you to use up a lot of the case volume to make a bit safer without the high pressure spike. I usually load them out toughing the lands (as any fire forming should be) in order to control the stretching out at the neck and not at the base of webbing just ahead of the belt. You can also order bulk "Magnum" brass (un necked belted cases) to form into 7 STW. Give Trailboss a try, it's the strangest looking powder, and it's takes a lot of volume with low weights (STW should be around 22-25grs max. I would start off around 18 gr and walk it up from there. Good shooting

 

[Big Jake Duke]

I've made a hundred or so of the rem 375 brass I had from years back into 7stw. I've tried both fireforming with H4831 and 120's(god job and rather accurate for putzing around) and the few grains of pistol powder and farina/cream of wheat method. I'd not use the latter as it as frankly terrible to clean your barrel after the cereal burns in it.
Any of the full length belteds will make 7stw, with the 300 roy and the 8rem at the top of the list as the fireforming is less. If you are necking down 375 h@h make sure to use an intermediate step like a 338 sizer die long so you don't crush the neck trying to go from 37 cal to 7mm at once.

What loads did you use for the 120's?

I imagine a midrange book load.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

What loads did you use for the 120's?

I imagine a midrange book load.

check post 2493

The stw is belted, so shoving the bullet into the lands isn't necessary(sometimes helpfull though), especially if you make a shoulder on the brass as you neck it down; get your dies right and there will be plenty of shoulder there.

 

[trondheim]

Hi!
Finally i got my sako 75 back from the "docter" last week. Mounted a custom made 20 moa picatinny rail with å IOR 3,5-18x50 on top. Loaded up some 162 gr a-max with 71-77 gr Vithavuori n 560, col 93 mm. Got two ok groups (15 mm), one at 73 gr and the other at 76,5 gr. Speed 921 m/s and 972 m/s. This was at -13 degrees celsius. Any suggestions and taughts over these loads. I have also norma mrp,mrp2,vihtavuori n 570 and hodgdon h 1000 powder i want to try. Shall i keep to vv 560 or experiment further?

 

[WildRose]

Hi!
Finally i got my sako 75 back from the "docter" last week. Mounted a custom made 20 moa picatinny rail with å IOR 3,5-18x50 on top. Loaded up some 162 gr a-max with 71-77 gr Vithavuori n 560, col 93 mm. Got two ok groups (15 mm), one at 73 gr and the other at 76,5 gr. Speed 921 m/s and 972 m/s. This was at -13 degrees celsius. Any suggestions and taughts over these loads. I have also norma mrp,mrp2,vihtavuori n 570 and hodgdon h 1000 powder i want to try. Shall i keep to vv 560 or experiment further?

H1000 has always been a very good powder for me in both my 7mm mag's and 7mm STW's.

When I get set back up to reload I was going to try H1000 and RL25 and see if one of them will produce well in all three of my STW's along with my 300wm's and 300 Rum. Given a choice I'd prefer to not have to keep large stocks of multiple powders.

 

[7stw]

I've done a lot of fire forming using trailboss powder. Does really well and allows you to use up a lot of the case volume to make a bit safer without the high pressure spike. I usually load them out toughing the lands (as any fire forming should be) in order to control the stretching out at the neck and not at the base of webbing just ahead of the belt. You can also order bulk "Magnum" brass (un necked belted cases) to form into 7 STW. Give Trailboss a try, it's the strangest looking powder, and it's takes a lot of volume with low weights (STW should be around 22-25grs max. I would start off around 18 gr and walk it up from there. Good shooting

You know, I have thought about it more times than a few about buying some Norma 375, or 300 hh brass, and do some fire forming, because the result is the BEST brass you can buy. I guess I would have to get someone to walk me through it, but it may happen. I have a mish mosh of brass now. It is all in great shape, but I have like four different brands, ( A Square, Remington, Winchester, and a few Federal, which are junk anyway). HMMM, maybe I'll give it a try.

 

[7stw]

Can you believe it guys, 2500 entries in LESS than a year!! WOW.
Let the good times roll!!!!

 

[7stw]

Guys, I am looking for a barrel channel rasp or file or what ever they are called. I am getting a laminated stock from Stockys, but by the dimensions that are posted, I will need to open it up around .030, to get the barrel to fully float. I have done the old " dowel and sandpaper" routine before, but that's going to be a lot of sanding, and I want it perfect. The barrel will be a # 4 Brux. Any thoughts?
Thanks.

 

[WildRose]

Guys, I am looking for a barrel channel rasp or file or what ever they are called. I am getting a laminated stock from Stockys, but by the dimensions that are posted, I will need to open it up around .030, to get the barrel to fully float. I have done the old " dowel and sandpaper" routine before, but that's going to be a lot of sanding, and I want it perfect. The barrel will be a # 4 Brux. Any thoughts?
Thanks.

Well, I have a couple of channeling tools I'm not currently using. If you want to borrow them I'd loan them to you if you'll just send them back when you are done.

 

[7stw]

Well, I have a couple of channeling tools I'm not currently using. If you want to borrow them I'd loan them to you if you'll just send them back when you are done.

Wild Rose, thank you for your generosity, and I just may take you up on that. I haven't got the stock yet, but will be pretty soon. I know HOW to do it, and have done it with a channeling tool, and they work awesome. VERY Sharp too!!!! I had a Remington VLS a few years ago, and I opened the channel to fully float the barrel after I bedded it. Now, that barrel, was almost a straight bull barrel, and the one I have to open has a taper, so I'll have to find one that will open it to clear the whole channel from where it starts to taper down.
Thanks so much, and I'll let you know when I get the stock! Nice gesture!!!!

Bob

 

[WildRose]

Wild Rose, thank you for your generosity, and I just may take you up on that. I haven't got the stock yet, but will be pretty soon. I know HOW to do it, and have done it with a channeling tool, and they work awesome. VERY Sharp too!!!! I had a Remington VLS a few years ago, and I opened the channel to fully float the barrel after I bedded it. Now, that barrel, was almost a straight bull barrel, and the one I have to open has a taper, so I'll have to find one that will open it to clear the whole channel from where it starts to taper down.
Thanks so much, and I'll let you know when I get the stock! Nice gesture!!!!

Bob

Tapered barrels are the reason I have more than one size of channeling tool.

Just let me know when you need them.

 

[SFR292]

Keep in mind that the barrel channel file doesn't work very well on a laminated stock. The laminate makes it basically solid glue, when it does cut, it will be uneven and chatter. A mill is the best option but I realize that's not an option for everyone. Sand paper cuts the glue and wood the best and in the most even manner, at the cost of time. A regular half round wood file works well as well and the straight edge of the file can help keep the channel lip true.
More likely than not, what you got was a Boyd's stock. Their linleting is rough at best, make sure to check the action inleting and the bottom metal before you get too carried away with the barrel channel. I would also recommend bedding it, the last two Boyd's laminated stocked that came into the shop had to have the bottom metal bedded as well to make up for the over cut inletting from Boyd's. I don't want to say they're bad stocks, just a lot of work so don't get me wrong. In most cases a two or three step bedding process is required to get it square as well as aesthetically pleasing before the finial barrel channel can be inleted fully for a proper float. Feel free to call the shop number below anytime you like if you need any information and have questions, we'll help you the best we can.

 

[WildRose]

Keep in mind that the barrel channel file doesn't work very well on a laminated stock. The laminate makes it basically solid glue, when it does cut, it will be uneven and chatter. A mill is the best option but I realize that's not an option for everyone. Sand paper cuts the glue and wood the best and in the most even manner, at the cost of time. A regular half round wood file works well as well and the straight edge of the file can help keep the channel lip true.
More likely than not, what you got was a Boyd's stock. Their linleting is rough at best, make sure to check the action inleting and the bottom metal before you get too carried away with the barrel channel. I would also recommend bedding it, the last two Boyd's laminated stocked that came into the shop had to have the bottom metal bedded as well to make up for the over cut inletting from Boyd's. I don't want to say they're bad stocks, just a lot of work so don't get me wrong. In most cases a two or three step bedding process is required to get it square as well as aesthetically pleasing before the finial barrel channel can be inleted fully for a proper float. Feel free to call the shop number below anytime you like if you need any information and have questions, we'll help you the best we can.

Emphasis mine. I haven't found that to be the case at all and I've done at least six laminated stocks over the years.

These barrel bedding/channel tools are what I use and they cut very cleanly.