7mm Rem Mag Case Stretch

[xsn10s]

Hmmm well maybe I should of gotten the oversize brass lol. I got PPU brass after reading some favorable reviews and boy there flash hole has some narly burrs. I'm not real impressed but if it shoots well I'll be happy. As far as case stretch I haven't heard of many casehead separations so I'll just bump the shoulder after first firings and carry on.

 

[Len Backus]

when this crap starts , the OP learns nothing . the thread gets turned into a ****ing contest
do you know why you get banned ? you are an A$$hole , now prove your not , theres no proof your not . and like to shoot off your big mouth . I've paid attention to your post since you were on here crying about being banned . I can see why . you like to argue . you act like you are the smartest guy on the forum . for a smart guy you sure are stupid . go argue with the next guy . my time is too precious to waste on you and your crap .

Anyone ever get banned from a forum?

Len, if this is not OK, please remove. As above, anyone get banned after being attacked/reported by other members for replying endlessly over matters that didn’t concern them and DEFENDING yourself? I won’t mention the forum, as it’s not worth my time to do so. Just wondering if this has...

www.longrangehunting.com

when this crap starts , the OP learns nothing . the thread gets turned into a ****ing contest
do you know why you get banned ? you are an A$$hole , now prove your not , theres no proof your not . and like to shoot off your big mouth . I've paid attention to your post since you were on here crying about being banned . I can see why . you like to argue . you act like you are the smartest guy on the forum . for a smart guy you sure are stupid . go argue with the next guy . my time is too precious to waste on you and your crap .

Anyone ever get banned from a forum?

Len, if this is not OK, please remove. As above, anyone get banned after being attacked/reported by other members for replying endlessly over matters that didn’t concern them and DEFENDING yourself? I won’t mention the forum, as it’s not worth my time to do so. Just wondering if this has...

www.longrangehunting.com

Jim

Take a 90 day vacation

 

[VinceMule]

XSN, good to de burr the flash hole, just do not over do it and weaken the area. I had great results from 7x57 brass in PPU.

 

[Mike Matteson]

I will be the odd man out here. My 7 Mags are hunting rifles, Sporters in Rem 700, and Browning A bolts, and I have barrel blanks waiting their turn for the 7oos when the barrels get shot out. These factory rifles are extremely accurate, and that is an understatement.

For dies, I have:
Forster Benchrest
Redding Competition set
Wilson Bushing Full-length sizer
RCBS Full-length die set, with '79 stamped on top, indicating that it was made in 1979.

The best accuracy achieved in these rifles happens with the RCBS full-length sizer. Bullet seaters used are either the Forster or the Redding comp seater, does not matter as long as the bullet touches the lands with both dies producing less than .002 run out on a seated bullet..

The loads I shoot are right at the top of the pressure curve, so I have to full-length size on every firing. My Rem and Win brass is worked hard with the 140g at 3250-3300, 150g at 3200 and 162g at 3100 on 26" barrels.

When adjusting the full length sizer, I screw the die down in the press maybe 1/32 of a rotation at a time, barely moving it as I am trying to adjust the die where the bolt handle goes down easily when the brass is chambered in the chamber. I am reducing the dia at the web, and I really do not give a darn what is happening at the shoulder, why would I? I have be able to cycle a loaded round a loaded round that was picked up from the mag box. I firmly believe in throwing the brass away as case head separation lines appear in the brass. The softer brass in the lot will start showing problems somewhere around 7 firings, and that indicates that the barrel is near the end of it's life. I start off with 100 new Rem or Win cases in a case guard 100, and I go through the entire 100 before starting over, Heads will be exploding over this, I am sure.

Some would argue that my loads are too hot, but I am hooked on 3/8" and smaller three shot groups that repeat time after time, and 2.5-3.5" groups at 600 does not suck.

I see the merits of both what jim and magnum are saying, two different approaches, and I don't see that either is wrong in their approach. I for one am not going to neck size my 7 Rem mag cases, it was an absolute disaster for me when trying to shoot to the accuracy/pressure nodes I am shooing. I figure that 100 cases for a new gun/barrel is not much to ask and little expense. The barrels turn into copper mines somewhere around 800-1000 rounds max, where accuracy is opening up, time for a new barrel or new gun. I will have lost around 15 pieces of brass from case stretch, with the remainder of the brass having around 10 firings on it.

New brass shoots in tiny groups, fired/fully formed brass may take a tiny adjustment on the powder charge, quickly figured out when loading at the rifle range.

Peterson brass could solve some issues on headspace length, I would worry about the dimension at the web and how my dies measure in this respect. If the Peterson brass was larger in the web than Win and Rem, it could be another ****er to deal with. Since I have the Rem and Win brass loads figured out with dies on hand, I don't think that I will complicate my life any further. I anneal on the 3rd-6th firing, propane torch and bread pan of water, not going to change as long as I get 3/8" and below groups.

I had changed to Winchester brass a great many years ago. Being I found they weight less generally. The old in the pan annealing. I had done that for years. That cut the neck spliting out. I would lose my brass in about 10 to 12 firing because of primer pockets wouldn't hold the primers. That was because of more powder than called out in the manual.
Easy on the blood pressure. Take care new friend!

 

[xsn10s]

XSN, good to de burr the flash hole, just do not over do it and weaken the area. I had great results from 7x57 brass in PPU.

I already deburred them as part of my case prep. The tool is preset from the factory. I've had it for thirty years.

 

[victor3ranger]

OP , I went digging back and found this thread I did on forming a false shoulder . there might be something there that helps you . it's really a simple process , it takes little time to do it to a new batch of brass .

forming a false shoulder

all this false shoulder talk got my interest up , I had to do it . I wasn't sure if it would be worth the effort . I found there is nothing to this .if you have the means do it , it can only help case life . I doubt I have I have 15 minutes in getting things measured , until I had 5 pieces...

forum.nosler.com

Thank you
This is a subject that I will need to get very familiar with now that I want to reload for a individual rifle instead of bulk loading

 

[victor3ranger]

XSN, good to de burr the flash hole, just do not over do it and weaken the area. I had great results from 7x57 brass in PPU.

I have had great luck with it in 243 after I found out that I need to run to through my fl die first before loading. After that I actually like the stuff, it's pretty tough

 

[xsn10s]

I have had great luck with it in 243 after I found out that I need to run to through my fl die first before loading. After that I actually like the stuff, it's pretty tough

Yeah that's what I do with most new brass just to straight out casemouth dents. I don't do a FL resize as that can create a headspace issue. I'll also chamfer and deburr. I'll use a VLD chamfer. That's pretty much the how I do it depending on how the brass looks.

 

[Carey Farmer]

Seems to me the solution for this nonsense is to buy a custom reamer made with minimal headspace between the shoulder and the base.

That's my solution for .264 win mag. My reamer is .010" shorter than SAAMI. That solved a lot of problems. Had to knock a few thousandths off the bottom of my sizing die, though.

 

[VinceMule]

When using the Full-length sizer on new brass, do a partial full-length size, to uniform case neck dimensions and bullet grip. This is the one time I use my neck sizers, new brass, especially the Forster neck sizer as it does not yank the neck out of alignment.

The use of the VLD heck chamfer Creates a "bullet guide", helping the bullet enter the neck. This is not a place to de-burr the inside of the neck, but a deep chamfer.

 

[Lenny Foffa]

Great Stuff Gents!!! Thank you all!!

 

[Prairie Sasquatch]

Great Stuff Gents!!! Thank you all!!

Agreed. I learned a lot from this thread. Very much appreciated.

 

[anotherreloader123]

Well this thread made me realise all my 1x fired 300 wm brass is bumped .006 more than it needs to be. Glad this thread exists.

 

[VinceMule]

I worry more about the dimension at the web. I have seen rounds loaded for 5 years, "normalize" with the brass springing back out with the result of not being able to chamber in the barrel.

Due to a mis fit between brass, dies, and chamber, often we are forced to push the shoulder back more than we like, and .006 is not uncommon at all in order to get the brass to cycle in the chamber.

Keep your ammo fresh if possible, from year to year. I will generally load 100 rounds after I have verified my load 3 X, but I leave the bullets seated .100 long, seating 20 or so rounds to the ogive length prior to the hunting season or as needed, then cycle the rounds through the gun. All rounds were fired in that chamber when new, if the brass was previously fired.

The smaller the tolerance between the new brass and chamber dimension, the more apt you are to get into trouble from Brass expanding out after sizing, "normalizing". This whole issue of Brass spring back is one heck of a can of worms.