700 Barrel Removal at Standstill

Don't forget, though, that Muddy is working in his Basement! Propane - NO Way!
Well, so take it all outside. Then it won't boil off quite so fast......
;)
Well, wait, maybe all he needs to do is take it all outside, and leave it there overnight. No propane required......

The propane A/C refrigerant idea mostly scared me from the perspective of an auto accident where fire might be involved and the unsuspecting firemen.

The CO2 from the dry ice can be a breathing hazard as I'm sure that you know.

I think that I have the same action wrench. That bar behind it with the shouldered threads on one end isn't a barrel, it is the lever for the wrench. There is a hole in the 'cap' (barely visible in the pic) for such an action screw.

Not long ago I built some AL pillow blocks for a road racer's front sway bar. The way that I built them was to buy 1.25x1.25 6061 T6 bar-stock and cut the lengths that I needed. Then drill all of the mounting bolt holes. Using a steel dowel pin in each pair of holes to align them I clamped them sideways in the vise and hole-sawed the bores slightly under-size and then bored them to size. Made putting the center on the split really easy. I could see doing this with a thick shim (.03"-.06") of some sort between the blocks to make some AL barrel blocks that can't go to zero on themselves.

I made those with a mill, but I have made similar parts by abusing the heck out of a tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Cutter-Adjustable/dp/B00004T7OZ in a drill press with the work securely clamped in place.
 
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Sendero contour which was original LR barrel for Remington so not a tapered barrel and yes have a really long action wrench bar and use a SAE Grade 8 bolt snugged tight to the action wrench and receiver. The slippage is the dang barrel clamps even with ton of torque such crushing oak blocks with the hitch wrench. I like the Brownell block and bushing setup but they are out of the right size I need, of course. I bet it would lock down in the current setup and grab the barrel so it can be torqued off.

Right now I am only the one being torqued off!

I really think the injecting through the base hole with a syringe is starting to work since I am seeing some seepage now even inside receiver. I bet by tomorrow morning it will be through all threads 🤞

Patience is more than a virtue with this project!
 
Tag. My first comment ever on any forum. Can't wait to see how this ends. Not even sure how TAG works.

I don't want to derail Muddy's exceptionally entertaining thread here, but I'll add the following:

#1, Welcome to the forum from Colorado. You might want to head over to the "member introduction" threads to properly introduce yourself there.

https://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/member-introductions.65/

#2, by "tagging" into a thread, it simply notifies you of any additional comments that are made to that thread by way of a red notification flag on the little bell in the upper right hand corner of your screen. You can also accomplish this same action by hitting the "watch" button - in the top right corner of any thread that you are interested in.

Hope this helps,

Now, back to the Muddy show! 😆
 
Sendero contour which was original LR barrel for Remington so not a tapered barrel and yes have a really long action wrench bar and use a SAE Grade 8 bolt snugged tight to the action wrench and receiver. The slippage is the dang barrel clamps even with ton of torque such crushing oak blocks with the hitch wrench. I like the Brownell block and bushing setup but they are out of the right size I need, of course. I bet it would lock down in the current setup and grab the barrel so it can be torqued off.

Right now I am only the one being torqued off!

I really think the injecting through the base hole with a syringe is starting to work since I am seeing some seepage now even inside receiver. I bet by tomorrow morning it will be through all threads 🤞

Patience is more than a virtue with this project!

Sorry, I forgot to say something about that seepage. That does look promising.

Love the loctite shock stuff. Never heard of it before but I'll be gettin me some o that!

Good stuff on your action wrench.

I really think you should try casting a perfect fit bushing out of devcon. Especially since you can't get the right size bushing from Brownell. Another option is that epoxy plumbing tape. Wrap it, clamp it, and wait. We all know you have the patience for that!

I get it that you don't want to machine it off. You have way more patience than I do for this personal challenge of yours. I used up all my patience raising kids. So how attached are you to this barrel? What about deep cleaning it, and then epoxy the barrel right to a piece of sacrificial wood with grooves in it to hold the epoxy? After the barrel is off (big assumption here), you can clean off the epoxy by heating it up and then scraping/chipping it away and then polishing the barrel.

You mentioned those aluminum sleeves that brownells sells for their universal block. I assume that's what you were referring to when you said they were out of stock. If you have a sleeve that is close, you could always make a big shim or shims to make it fit. It might sound counterintuitive to shim a shim, but the weakest surface should slip first - most likely the barrel to sleeve surface - because it has the snallest surface area. If it slips elsewhere, you can always lock it in place at the bushing clamp joint.
 
Friends, like I stated we got our 2nd dose of Moderna yesterday but unfortunately my wife is feeling side effects so I will be off for a while taking care of Momma through this.

I hope the "Show" will resume tomorrow and have good report from soaking overnight.
Thx
Muddy

Good luck to you both.

It will be at least a month before I get my vaccine. 😢

Attached is a photo of my Brownells barrel sleeve vice. It has twice the bearing surface on the length of the barrel than my Wheeler Clone has. Holding torque is directly proportional to clamping surface area. Easier to make an epoxy sleeve with too. Might give you some ideas.

For example, longer oak blocks cannot hurt. Even better would be even longer oak blocks sandwiched by some thick steel plate that extends beyond your vice jaws to reduce the cantilever effect and increase the clamping surface area.
 
Hi guys, long time watcher here. I'm a welder by trade we have a saying " can't be tight if it's a liquid " as in the torch will take care of that. Hahaha interested to see how this turns out
 
In basement next to LP furnace and LP hot water heater. Boom-Boom -Shakalaka-Boom-Boom! I have access to dry ice which I may get but right now I need to upgrade my barrel clamping system. The wood has worked for a ton of barrels but not this one so I need a STOUT one to make sure I can break it free.

For those that say get some sack to swing? I am really good with anvil hammers including the BFH variety for draft horse shoes which require 200 lb anvils, forge and BFH to turn a monster shoe for them. Hated the effort since it jarred through your shoulder, rattled your fillings and gave you headache by nightfall which is maybe why I am scheduled for 3rd shoulder surgery on April 1st! But it did pay REALLY well! Thankfully my degree career took off and hung up hammers!

Regret selling my coal forge couple years ago. Wished I kept it but it was taking up a lot of space in pole barn. Anvils too. DANG! Did get a nice build out of the sale!
There's nothing like a good BFH
 
Sorry, forgot the photo.....
 

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So now I now have 100.7 and chills so in recliner with heavy fleece blanket so not going to touch the project prob to Monday. I have solid hickory 3/4"x 3" flooring that I plan to work into vise. I can adjust length all I want.

Wife in other recliner so what a pair!
I hope you both feel better Brother
 
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