6.5 bullets on game

Hey I never post anything on here, but am always reading what everybody else has to say. But today I will chime in...I have (as have most of us, probably) realized that hunting gear/equipment/caliber/and yes, even bullet selection is very fad driven. These fads, or what's popular, are driven by marketing from Hornady, Berger, nosler, Barnes, etc. furthermore, people jump on a particular bandwagon from even more marketing from "my uncle's cousin's coworker's brother..."
I believe that all of us want to have rifles that shoot one hole, five shot groups at all distances and that can shoot 2,000 yards with 1 inch of drift and have enough energy to drop every critter that walks the planet. But we all know deep down inside that for our hunting success, that is probably not needed. What is needed is a complete understanding of how our selected bullet (whatever caliber, weight, brand) will behave at given velocities, conditions, energy, etc etc.
I have started to run my own tests on bullets the past couple of years and I have realized that every once in a while a bullet will behave outside of the norm for that given line of bullets. However, the majority perform very similar to the others in the box under a given set of conditions.
One needs to realize that a Berger does NOT perform the same as a Barnes, and so on and so forth and vice versa. So don't try and make them. Don't go timber pounding with a Berger for an 800 pound bull where you may end up with a 30 yard shoulder shot (I know people will say: "oh they work flawlessly at close range, blah blah"), and also don't set up for a 1000 yard shot on that same bull with a Barnes. It's not gonna expand....the majority of the time.
This is where people get mixed results/opinions with bullets. They are asking their bullet to do something that it is not physically capable of. Yes, most animals will die if they are hit with a hunk of metal flying at 1500-3500 fps. But that's not the point. The point is knowing exactly what is going to happen when your chosen bullet hits that animal. Accuracy ANd bullet construction matter. Don't try to make one bullet fit all applications. For example, I use Berger's when hunting antelope where I know they are a smaller animal and a long shot is going to be the norm. I also use Accubonds or Barnes TTSX when I hunt elk in thick timber in NW Montana where I rarely have a shot over 200 yards.
I would just say to all those looking to switch or try new bullets: it does not matter what Joe Shmoe thinks or says on sites like this great one. You have to figure it out for yourself through testing that bullet prior to hunting. Does it meet your accuracy requirement? And does it perform terminally? Don't ask it to do something it can't.
With all that said I will give my marketing statement: I believe the Nosler Accubond in a heavy grain bullet pushed fast is the best all around bullet for me. A 300 RUM with 200 grainer at 3200 fps has performed on all game that I have launched it at. 20 yards-850 yards. Antelope to moose. The End.
Barkerb


Welcome to the conversation, "jump in", everyone's opinion is welcome....even if most are severely misguided! :D

But, to get to your post. I guess that a bullet for each species, and each type of conditions could be considered optimal. However, for many that may be impractical. For example: with our elk hunting, shots can be from feet to my self-imposed limit (under near perfect conditions) of 600 yards. Our deer and antelope can be the same, we can't assume that all deer/antelope shots will be at long range. With these conditions in mind, as in "all" conditions..... my wife and I (his and hers rifles) the same rifle for all big game hunting, one bullet type/weight, one zero. This has proven over the last 25 years of hunting various big game animals (antelope, deer, elk, moose, bear, ect.) to be very effective. With a properly placed bullet, from any angle.....we have only recovered one bullet. And have never lost an animal, except for one. This was due to "extreme" operator (me) error :mad:,I just "nicked" the upper leg. Hell, he didn't even limp!

Obviously, our system isn't for everyone. I once knew a guy, that went elk hunting with 3 different Bullets, for 3 different scenarios. He made a complete fiasco of his elk hunt, crippling an elk which was finished-off by another hunter, and firing more shots at that one elk, than my wife and I combined over the last 6 or eight years. I'm not even sure that his first shots were with the bullet chosen for the task. He over analyzed elk hunting, and made it a miserable experience. He forgot the KISS system! memtb
 
If putting emphasis solely on 6.5 bullets, I would say I have used most over the years.
I still have my 264WM in comp and hunting rifles, a 6.5x47 comp rifle I often use on farm fringe from my truck and a 6.5x55 Swede.
In the past, have used 6.5-284, 260AI, 6.5-06 & 6.5-300Wm.
Bullets I have used are Speer Hot Cor in 100gr/120gr/140gr, Hornady 129gr, Nosler 100gr/120gr Ballistic Tips, Nosler 129gr/142gr ABLR, Nosler 130gr/140gr Accubonds and Berger 140gr Elite Hunters.
The Accubond and ABLR stand out for me presently, but I am dabbling with Nosler RDF bullets, pointing and tipping them. Have shot 2 animals to date and have mixed results, although with work they look promising.
Unfortunately, Berger bullets dried up here around 2 years ago, so none to use since I ran out.

I am always looking for better bullets, and not ALWAYS those suitable for specifically LR, but just those for normal extended ranges out to 500mtr or so.
I have target bullets that work both on game and paper, it's just that they're not ALWAYS necessary for the game at hand or hunting conditions/situations.

Cheers.
 
When I first got my 6.5 CM I used Hornady Whitetail ammo. I think a129 gr SST. I shot a couple deer and they worked fine. Last year I shot a mule deer with a 143 eldx. It worked fine. Then I shot a cow elk with a 6.5 saum and a 140gr berger and it worked fine. I haven't used a bullet that hasn't worked so I can't really add much to the conversation. I was thinking of using the 120gr TSX Barnes this year because they group so well in my CM.
 
Just killed an Antelope with the 140 gn Bergers, in a 260 really great performance at short range (200 ) Shot several deer out to 700 yds same result.
Chest entry no exit no movement dead.
Also had experience shooting African game with my 300 Ultramag with the 230s Waterbuck, Zebra,Impala,Kudu, Eland...One and done
 
Just killed an Antelope with the 140 gn Bergers, in a 260 really great performance at short range (200 ) Shot several deer out to 700 yds same result.
Chest entry no exit no movement dead.
Also had experience shooting African game with my 300 Ultramag with the 230s Waterbuck, Zebra,Impala,Kudu, Eland...One and done
Did you have to open the tips on the Berger's as mentioned in past comment?
 
I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but this topic has been my number one concern for this season for my youngest son and his 6.5CM. Reason why is this; he shot his first buck last year at about 40-50 yds. Made a good shot and shoots sub half MOA all day long from the bench... and very accurate out past 500, so I have faith in his shooting.
He was shooting 143 ELD-X and we found ZERO blood from the site, not by making circles from that point all the way around the edge of the field. Later in the year, the deer was found about 160 yards away from the shot site in some thick brush. So, in a sense the bullet did it's job I guess, but with no blood to track, I'm wasn't happy.
I have worked up a load with 135gr Classic Hunter Bergers in hopes that the bullet will dump it's energy on impact as most claim Berger to do. If this doesn't turn out successfully, Barnes or Accubond will be the next step.
Anyone want to offer any input on shots less than 100yds, I'm open to suggestions; I'm trying to be a good sportsman above all, and also don't want to see a young man disappointed...
Thanks
Skip the Berger, Barnes and Accubond and just buy some 110gr Hammer Hunters. Push them as fast as you can. Steve guarantees his bullets will shoot. There's probably nothing better in the market right now. I promise you won't be sorry. And if you're thinking "Gosh, 110s are so light." STOP. They'll drop any deer you can connect with.
 
Skip the Berger, Barnes and Accubond and just buy some 110gr Hammer Hunters. Push them as fast as you can. Steve guarantees his bullets will shoot. There's probably nothing better in the market right now. I promise you won't be sorry. And if you're thinking "Gosh, 110s are so light." STOP. They'll drop any deer you can connect with.
What grain hammer for elk say 500 yards or less for 260 Rem
 
What grain hammer for elk say 500 yards or less for 260 Rem
When I run the numbers, assuming you can get 3000' from the 124gr, it's showing 1200+ ft/lbs out to 500 yards, someone threw out that minimum for elk earlier in this thread. I'd keep it inside 300 yards for elk if it were me taking the shot personally.
 
Call me old fashioned, but my go-to rifle is a custom 6.5-06 loaded with 140 gr. Nosler Partitions. They have harvested 78 deer and elk for me over the past 55 years plus a few more for those to whom I loaned the rifle. Only one animal required a second shot. While I am entertained by the discussions about the myriad of new-fangled cartridges, bullets and propellants; when I go afield, I take what has served me well for decades.
 
I believe in placement over power. As an Archer & airgun Hunter I see placement work great.
I'll never be hunting a Kodiak Brown Bear with my old Fred Bear either though, so I'd personally want a monstrous lever action, Weatherby, or H&H round if I were to.
I simply don't like Bear meat & not a trophy hunter but if I were in a high tree stand I might with a bow if I had to.
I say go with more knock down power & right bullet that dumps all energy.
 
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Dumped a bull elk last year in New Mexico at 367 yards with a 140 Hybrid out of a 6.5 SAUM.
150 grain Federal .30-30 Corelock 293 yards. Hit right rear quarter & stopped under skin left side front shoulder. Estimated 32" of drop. Regular PA Whitetail.
 
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