460 S&W Magnum might have too much velocity. See Picture...

[Wolf76]

Just another observation about some of these huge wound exits. Most of the time that I have seen this amount of damage, has been when I hit the game in the shoulder blade not behind it. This type of hit will test any bullets construction. I have purposely chosen this shot when I needed something hard to start the expansion process and at other times avoided this location for bullet placement. Sometimes we don't have a choice if it is running or we wan't to drop the game in its tracks for recovery.

If we know the strengths and weakness of the bullet used, we can make the placement choice based on the outcome we want. Many times while hunting, I have been presented with a long shot that would reduce the expansion of the bullet used and I elected to just clip one shoulder or end up against the opposite shoulder for best bullet performance at that range.

I try not to judge a bullet if I haven't placed it in the optimum location, But when I repeatedly make a good shot (Where I wanted it) and the results are not as expected, I can evaluate it and decide what use would be better for it. As i have said before, There is no golden bullet that will do everything.

If I am using a bullet that will expand rapidly, I try to place the bullet where it will hit only soft tissue (Behind the shoulder And only a few ribs) Bullet selection for the game and distance is very important and can make a huge difference. So shot placement becomes very important to evaluate a Bullet.

Just a comment and an observation based on my years of hunting.

J E CUSTOM

We typically put them behind the shoulder. This was the first deer for a young man, so it's all good.
Attached is a buck I shot on

Thanksgiving. Entrance was about 2" behind the front shoulder. Exit was about 7" behind the shoulder - distance ~60 yards. He did run maybe 40 yards, but died right in front of me.

 

[J E Custom]

I went with the 26" 460 barrel because I intend to shoot 300+ grain bullets and want to see if it gains any more than the 20" bolt action I built. If there is no advantage, I can always cut a few inches off the barrel.

Common sense tells me that it may not be worth the extra inches of barrel, but test will tell me for sure. I also intend to build it with my new style of muzzle brake to make it pleasant to shoot.

J E CUSTOM

 

[WYO300RUM]

I'm going to stick with 27 in.. Just not sure if going to have it threaded for a brake or do there integral radial brake witch I'd be stuck with and loose 2 in. of rifled barrel. Probably get it threaded . That way I can use one of your brakes
I don't mind the integral radial brake on my MGM 27 in. 6.5 PRC barrel. I don't hunt with it. It's a one in. full bull and HEAVY....

 

[J E Custom]

I'm going to stick with 27 in.. Just not sure if going to have it threaded for a brake or do there integral radial brake witch I'd be stuck with and loose 2 in. of rifled barrel. Probably get it threaded . That way I can use one of your brakes
I don't mind the integral radial brake on my MGM 27 in. 6.5 PRC barrel. I don't hunt with it. It's a one in. full bull and HEAVY....

I would not recommend a integral brake because they cant be as efficient as an add on can because of losing effective barrel length and the machining that needs to be done to get the most recoil reduction possible. I have some of these integral brake and would replace them If i could without loosing several inches of effective barrel length.

One other reason is that to be effective, a brake has to have enough volume to manage the gasses produced by the cartridge and the integral just doesn't have enough to be very effective.

J E CUSTOM

 

[eastbank]

i have a older ruger # 1 in .460 with 22" barrel new in the box I just never got around to shoot as I have ruger # 3 in 45-70 and shoot 300 gr bullets at 2000 fps. its a good killer with out blowing the animals in two.

 

[WYO300RUM]

I would not recommend a integral brake because they cant be as efficient as an add on can because of losing effective barrel length and the machining that needs to be done to get the most recoil reduction possible. I have some of these integral brake and would replace them If i could without loosing several inches of effective barrel length.

One other reason is that to be effective, a brake has to have enough volume to manage the gasses produced by the cartridge and the integral just doesn't have enough to be very effective.

J E CUSTOM

Thanks for the info JE. I too didn't want to lose any barrel length because of it like I did on my 6.5 PRC barrel. Thought about it later what I lost. Was too late.
The PRC barrel recoils very little but it is heavy. Rifle weighs 11 pounds . I want to hear how your brake works on your barrel .

 

[J E Custom]

Thanks for the info JE. I too didn't want to lose any barrel length because of it like I did on my 6.5 PRC barrel. Thought about it later what I lost. Was too late.
The PRC barrel recoils very little but it is heavy. Rifle weighs 11 pounds . I want to hear how your brake works on your barrel .

It is very hard to get high percentages of recoil reduction from Big bores because of bullet weight to powder charge ratio and the large exit hole in the end of the brake that adds to the recoil. The last design reduced recoil almost 50 % (49.7%) and I still have a few tricks up my sleeve but hope the new design will best that.

I am also working on a replacement brake for the big pistol to see if it can be improved. Like everything else, I experiment for the fun and it also helps understand the physics of a muzzle brake. I have already found out that there is no one design that will do the best on all cartridge/firearm combinations.

The main thing is that we have fun doing it.

J E CUSTOM

 

[WYO300RUM]

It is very hard to get high percentages of recoil reduction from Big bores because of bullet weight to powder charge ratio and the large exit hole in the end of the brake that adds to the recoil. The last design reduced recoil almost 50 % (49.7%) and I still have a few tricks up my sleeve but hope the new design will best that.

I am also working on a replacement brake for the big pistol to see if it can be improved. Like everything else, I experiment for the fun and it also helps understand the physics of a muzzle brake. I have already found out that there is no one design that will do the best on all cartridge/firearm combinations.

The main thing is that we have fun doing it.

J E CUSTOM

For me it's finding time to have fun !
I wonder if there's a brake made for my 460 S&W XVR Revolver that's better than the one that came with it. Guess I can Google it... Lol your brake at 50% would be great to me !

 

[J E Custom]

For me it's finding time to have fun !
I wonder if there's a brake made for my 460 S&W XVR Revolver that's better than the one that came with it. Guess I can Google it... Lol your brake at 50% would be great to me !

That's the pistol I'm talking about. My intentions are to build a replacement brake for the XVR that Installs the same way the factory ones do so it is easily replaceable with the other two that came with the pistol.

It will have all of the advantages of the screw on brakes with the same bayonet attachment. I don't know of any being built but there could be somebody doing it.

Jerry

 

[WYO300RUM]

That's the pistol I'm talking about. My intentions are to build a replacement brake for the XVR that Installs the same way the factory ones do so it is easily replaceable with the other two that came with the pistol.

It will have all of the advantages of the screw on brakes with the same bayonet attachment. I don't know of any being built but there could be somebody doing it.

Jerry

If you build one , I want your first one for sale ! No BS.
The muzzle blast from that revolver is no fun. After about 10 shots it feels like somebody slapping you in the face. My Ruger Super Redhawk .454 Cassul is stout but not as bad. My .44 Super Blackhawk feels like a .357 after shooting either.

 

[WYO300RUM]

That's the pistol I'm talking about. My intentions are to build a replacement brake for the XVR that Installs the same way the factory ones do so it is easily replaceable with the other two that came with the pistol.

It will have all of the advantages of the screw on brakes with the same bayonet attachment. I don't know of any being built but there could be somebody doing it.

Jerry

I meant to send this to you a couple days ago. Maybe I did ? Don't know if you saw it. From MGM. Interesting . They came up with 24 in. as optimum for 460. I'd still go with 27 in. from them to get the weight , little extra fps and to save barrel length for thread on muzzle brake.
I'd like to have a Marlin lever action in 460. Heck , could shoot 45 long colt all day long .
https://matchgrademachine.acemlna.com/lt.php?s=4ae54e213dd4b22dfbca1f2a7d939f2e&i=94A409A7A1128

 

[WYO300RUM]

Watch when the shoot. Are they shooting 45 long colts or what....
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...BMA96BAgIECg&usg=AOvVaw2p_-rAWA_BGFfjm0T8tW4W

 

[dogbuster0006]

With my factory 460 encore barrel no brake I don't get consistent ejection of 45 colt cases, screw driver to remove half or better of them inconsistent. I have loaded 460 cases to hot 45colt charges and it's a pleasure to shoot. 454 charges are more than doable and fun to shoot, full bore 460 loads aren't fun at all. Everything I've read says you're getting lots more velocity with the extra 12 or so inches of barrel I believe it whole heartedly. With full power loads it's hands down the hardest kicking gun I own, I grew up shooting 45-70 out of a marlin guide gun just factory rem loads and to me this kicks harder and definitely has more muzzle blast.
If you're adding more barrel aren't you loosing some of the portability and the benefits of having a short fast handling rifle? I'm not criticizing at all just trying to understand, are you looking for more knock down by getting max velocity? There's not an animal on the continent that can't be cleanly and confidently shot with the 460 in pistol length according to many stories I've read. Heck if you're going to look for more power wouldn't it be easier to step up to the 45-70 and sling 400+ grain bullets?

 

[meatyrem]

Until the 460 S&W, My most powerful hand gun was a 444 marlin contender and once I used a 240 HP (Pistol bullet)@ 2400 ft/sec in it, and blew the opposite shoulder completely off a deer so at that point I decided to use rifle bullets. Hornady makes XTPs and XTP mags, if you shoot at 454 velocities and especially the 460 velocities you must/should use the XTP Mags for proper performance because the standard pistol bullets will not hold up to the higher velocities.

Most pistol bullets have a designed maximum velocity of around 1800 ft/sec so the 454 and the 460, like other high velocity pistols with velocities of 1800 ft/sec plus, need rifle bullets to perform their best. I have found the 250 grain FTX 450 bushmaster bullets to do very well in the 460, and the 300 grain plus bullets for the 454 or rifles also do very well. But make sure that the bullets are .452 dia and not .458.

J E CUSTOM

Hey JE which manual do you use for the 250gr ftx and 460? I am not able to find anything with that bullet. Or could you share the powder min-max?