elkaholic
Well-Known Member
yas, there is 338 ss brass. You need to neck it up but it has the correct head stampDid I read wrong on your website that you had brass for the 338 SS? I could just be wishful thinking....
yas, there is 338 ss brass. You need to neck it up but it has the correct head stampDid I read wrong on your website that you had brass for the 338 SS? I could just be wishful thinking....
You can do it several ways but my preferred way is a false shoulder and still jam the bullet with a moderate loadCorrect me if I'm wrong, but with the 338 I believe I'd just start with a relatively light load and jam the bullets into the lands a ways to set headspace rather than working the brass all the way to .35 and back?? Maybe I'm overthinking the brass thing but that seems to me like a lot of stretching of it. I necked up and back down to form the false shoulder on my 270 sherman though and it worked good.
Its easiest, yesWhy do you prefer the false shoulder? It seems like jamming cheap bullets with a light load is easiest...., right?
I'd do it in steps for sure. .270-.308 as a max step. .308-338 then 338-358. Those are the biggest jumps I'd do.Found some Norma brass... $90/100. Now to get is sized up to 35 cal
Now... barrel length? 24" or 22"? I'll put a brake on it for sure.
+1The false shoulder is the best guarantee that the headspace is correct and you get uniform brass. Yes it is more work, but the uniform brass is the result.
You only lose about 10-12'/inch so shorter barrels aren't much of a performance loss.What barrel length would suffice for the 338 Sherman? 22 or 24"
You only lose about 10-12'/inch so shorter barrels aren't much of a performance loss.
Its too short!!I know you said to start with 270win brass. Why couldn't you start with 30-06? I'm just curious.