.338 Lapua ackley

[Adam Lee]

where would be a good place to look for 338LAI dies?

 

[7mmrowland]

RCBS makes them.

 

[BountyHunter]

Dave Kiff at PTG reamers is recommending the "Speedy" version of 338 AI.

I had one for 3 years and with relatively medium loads of MRP2, I was getting 2975 fps out of a 34" barrel. Powder has a lot to do with what MV you can get without pressure.

In the process of building another right now. I will use the PTG speedy reamer and go with Hornady dies for now. Set up for the 338 SMK and do not think it will be a problem with either the new Hornady or Berger 300 grain.

Hornady will make custom dies in few weeks off your reamer print or shot brass.

BH

 

[jmden]

Dave Kiff at PTG reamers is recommending the "Speedy" version of 338 AI.

I had one for 3 years and with relatively medium loads of MRP2, I was getting 2975 fps out of a 34" barrel. Powder has a lot to do with what MV you can get without pressure.

In the process of building another right now. I will use the PTG speedy reamer and go with Hornady dies for now. Set up for the 338 SMK and do not think it will be a problem with either the new Hornady or Berger 300 grain.

Hornady will make custom dies in few weeks off your reamer print or shot brass.

BH

BH,

What does 'Speedy' mean and why is Kiff recommending it? 2975 w/ 300SMK, right? Is that a finish reamer for the 300SMK? If so, where does it seat the boatail/body junction in the case? What is the water case capacity of that 'Speedy' case?

Thanks!

 

[BountyHunter]

He has several versions of the 338 AI reamers on record. The version he likes personnally and recommends for no neck turn and 300 gr smks is one designed for the Texas gunsmith Speedy, ie the name "speedy version." If you want details, recommend you call or email him. He will be more than happy to answer any detailed questions. He told me that is the best version he has seen and been dealing long time with him so I went with that version.

It can be finish or resize, or both and your choice. I order the finish myself simply have a FL size die made by Neil Jones from the reamer print or fired brass if a true wildcat. if a standard, I use a body bump die from Redding and have Jim Carstenson from JLC precision make it a FL size die with should bump and bushings for $70.

Hornady will make a FL size die from the reamer or fired cases also. I am going to try them one this one to see how they work.

Beware of buying any wildcat die "off the shelf". Too many versions with the same name and they often will not work unless you have exactly the same chamber finish reamer, which is unlikely.

BH

 

[Boss Hoss]

He has several versions of the 338 AI reamers on record. The version he likes personnally and recommends for no neck turn and 300 gr smks is one designed for the Texas gunsmith Speedy, ie the name "speedy version." If you want details, recommend you call or email him. He will be more than happy to answer any detailed questions. He told me that is the best version he has seen and been dealing long time with him so I went with that version.

It can be finish or resize, or both and your choice. I order the finish myself simply have a FL size die made by Neil Jones from the reamer print or fired brass if a true wildcat. if a standard, I use a body bump die from Redding and have Jim Carstenson from JLC precision make it a FL size die with should bump and bushings for $70.

Hornady will make a FL size die from the reamer or fired cases also. I am going to try them one this one to see how they work.

Beware of buying any wildcat die "off the shelf". Too many versions with the same name and they often will not work unless you have exactly the same chamber finish reamer, which is unlikely.

BH

The "Speedy" version is mine. We did that years ago to develop a BR round that would fight the wind more than the 142 6.5 SMK. The bag manners (as Speedy predicted) were not good in LG competition even with a brake but it shot lights out when given time. I also have several sporters built around it (including one built on a Weatherby using a Tim North fluted tube that Speedy did personally that I would maybe sell that has less than 60 round through it). I also have a fire-forming barrel that we made to form the brass with.

The reamers for this are sitting in my box with the rest my collection. Just remember that this version assumes the use of Lapua brass for a pretty much no turn neck. In mine the necks were only cleaned up a little and the dies were made from the reamers. We pretty much call all of the rounds that were made for me Slowpoke and in this case it is a Slowpoke 338.

I can post a pic of the print is anyone needs to see it.

 

[jmden]

I can post a pic of the print is anyone needs to see it.[/quote]


Boss, I'd love to see a pic of the drawing. Thanks!

 

[Boss Hoss]

 

[long ranger]

He has several versions of the 338 AI reamers on record.


Beware of buying any wildcat die "off the shelf". Too many versions with the same name and they often will not work unless you have exactly the same chamber finish reamer, which is unlikely.

BH

VERY TRUE!! The 338 LAI version I have uses a 40 degree shoulder, as opposed to the Speedy which has a 35 degree shoulder. Also some of the versions straightwall the casing more than others.
Generic dies and wildcats do not mix.

 

[trueblue]

Boss Hoss,
I have not read the entire 6 pages on this thread, so I might be confused. I thought I read you were going to post the schematic of the reamer for the Speedy version of 338 LAI, but it looks like the schematic is for a 7mm . Please enlighten me if I am mistaken. Thanks

 

[Boss Hoss]

Opppppppssssssss posted the wrong one!!!! Fixed it now....

 

[jmden]

Boss Hoss,

Thank you for posting the reamer spec pic!

 

[new shooter]

I find it interesting the different experiences many of us who have played with this combination have had. I do not doubt your experience for a moment, just different from mine. I have a buddy in B.C. who has built 1 with Shilen barrel and he is not getting the velocites either.
Something else I have been doing differently from many is using Gun Juice religisously.
I believe that also contributes to the added velocity, it sure does keep copper fouling to a minimum.
I agree that velocity is not everything, accuracy IS. To have both is nice.

Kirby built my 338ax with 30'' barrel. i am getting 3030' 300gr smk 100.5gr of retumbo with out gun juice. kirby did all load work 1/2 moa out to 1600 yds. Can i use gun juice after i have shot 170 rounds through it? Would you give cleaning example? how often do you clean? Do you use any other product to get carbon and copper out first and then put gun juice in the chamber and bore? This 100.5gr. is not max; i get low es in low teens it will go faster but the es is to high. How offen do you go after copper in the rifle? One other question-have you notice if your groups got smaller after you have used gun juice? did your velocity stay even or did it start to drop after a few rounds until you can put more gun juice in it? would you give full name of gun juice so i can order it on the internet? Thanks for your input, Joe

 

[long ranger]

Kirby built my 338ax with 30'' barrel. i am getting 3030' 300gr smk 100.5gr of retumbo with out gun juice. kirby did all load work 1/2 moa out to 1600 yds. Can i use gun juice after i have shot 170 rounds through it? Would you give cleaning example? how often do you clean? Do you use any other product to get carbon and copper out first and then put gun juice in the chamber and bore? This 100.5gr. is not max; i get low es in low teens it will go faster but the es is to high. How offen do you go after copper in the rifle? One other question-have you notice if your groups got smaller after you have used gun juice? did your velocity stay even or did it start to drop after a few rounds until you can put more gun juice in it? would you give full name of gun juice so i can order it on the internet? Thanks for your input, Joe

Before you use Gun Juice you have to get 100% clean, all copper and carbon MUST be removed.
If you coat over it with Juice it will be there permanently. I would recommend Wipe Out as a cleaner, you may need to use 2 or 3 doses to get everything out.
I started my own rifles from shot#1 with Juice. I clean any of my rifles only when the grouping starts to open up which so far seems to be not at all. I do however run 1 wet patch of Juice down the bore after a days shooting. To date no copper has built up so I have not bothered to clean. I am watching my bore with a borescope.
Use of Gun Juice will increase velocity as you treat the barrel, I have not experienced any change in velocities since treating the bore.
The Gun Juice is made by Microlon and is available in the US, I am a dealer for it in Canada.