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338/375 ruger finished
- Thread starter jasent
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Would have never considered using 8 x 68S brass to make a 338/375 Ruger. Thanks for thinking outside the box.
Hard to tell in picture but the 8 x 68 brass must be blown out a bit? Hard to find much information on the 8 x 68. One description says it would have similar case capacity to a 338 win mag if necked to 8mm. Norma and RWS make the 8 x 68 which makes it very appealing. Please share any additional information on this cartridge and the performance you get with it.....thanks!
Hard to tell in picture but the 8 x 68 brass must be blown out a bit? Hard to find much information on the 8 x 68. One description says it would have similar case capacity to a 338 win mag if necked to 8mm. Norma and RWS make the 8 x 68 which makes it very appealing. Please share any additional information on this cartridge and the performance you get with it.....thanks!
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/blew-a-primer-_-analysis.197020/
I use both the Norma and RWS 8x68S brass in my 30/375 S.I.
The last few pages in the above linked Thread provides some of the details. I used Hornady brass for 5-6 years. Finally had enough of the Hornady cases and took the plunge to 8x68S parent cases. My cartridge is wildcatted, so I had to fire form the parent brass either way. Might as well start out with some consistent quality brass.
I slightly prefer the RWS brass over the Norma, in 8x68S. But either is better than Hornady.
The rim diameter dimension is smaller on the 8x68S cases, so make sure your rifle's extractor will function properly before spending the money on the 8x68S cases.
I use both the Norma and RWS 8x68S brass in my 30/375 S.I.
The last few pages in the above linked Thread provides some of the details. I used Hornady brass for 5-6 years. Finally had enough of the Hornady cases and took the plunge to 8x68S parent cases. My cartridge is wildcatted, so I had to fire form the parent brass either way. Might as well start out with some consistent quality brass.
I slightly prefer the RWS brass over the Norma, in 8x68S. But either is better than Hornady.
The rim diameter dimension is smaller on the 8x68S cases, so make sure your rifle's extractor will function properly before spending the money on the 8x68S cases.
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jasent
Well-Known Member
im running a Weatherby Vanguard action so Sako style extractor. I have no dout it will cycle RWS 8x68s. Thanks for posting that link. Interesting thread. When my funds recover I'll be buying the RWS brass. I'm using cci 250's right now and getting slight flattening but still round edges. I've put 55 rounds threw it so far and loving it. Idk how this hasn't become a saami cartridge
I initially fire form the 8x68s brass with cream of wheat. That gets the shoulder and most of the sidewalls blown out for proper headspacing off the shoulder for my next (and first) reload of the case with a bullet. It does require the full pressure load firing a bullet to get the 8x68s brass fully and concentrically formed to the chamber in the thicker case web area adjacent to the rim of the cases.
I agree your Sako extractor will likely eject 8x68s cases just fine.
I agree your Sako extractor will likely eject 8x68s cases just fine.
jasent
Well-Known Member
Nothing spectacular but this is my 2 nd shot from this barrel at range and first shot of the evening
735 yards with the 338/375 ruger
735 yards with the 338/375 ruger
Wild Monkey
Well-Known Member
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- Oct 16, 2017
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I could fire form RWS 8x68s brass but at more than double the price I dout I'll bother.[/QUOTE said:
jasent
Well-Known Member
Thank guys I'll check that out
I just checked and the Norma brass is selling for half of what I paid for it; $15 for 25 pieces is a great deal!
I'll start a new thread too so we don't derail Jasent's thread too much, but here's a side by side of a sectioned RWS 8x68s case on the left and Hornady 375 Ruger case on the right. They're a little bent because of the vise I used when splitting them.
Here's a link to the new thread about forming the Ruger cases from the 8x68
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/forming-375-ruger-brass-from-8x68s-cases.206507/
I'll start a new thread too so we don't derail Jasent's thread too much, but here's a side by side of a sectioned RWS 8x68s case on the left and Hornady 375 Ruger case on the right. They're a little bent because of the vise I used when splitting them.
Here's a link to the new thread about forming the Ruger cases from the 8x68
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/forming-375-ruger-brass-from-8x68s-cases.206507/
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jasent
Well-Known Member
Don't worry about the derail. It's all pertinent info. Post away. I think you got that backwards tho. Looks like Hornady on the right and RWS on the left
That's a big difference
That's a big difference
Fixed it!
I have had a 338-375 Ruger a long time now. Killed many deer and bull elk with it. My original load was using 76gr H4350 behind the 250gr Berger with 2930 fps in a 1 in 10" twist, 26" barrel.
I have since switched to RL16 and am running 76.5gr with 2980 fps. Can run it up to 77gr @ 2995 fps before I start stressing my Hornady brass primer pockets. (Again, that's in a 26" barrel) In a 30" barrel like your rifle, and with good brass, I'm sure RL16 will get you well over 3000 fps using a 250gr bullet. Start at 75.5gr RL16 and work up just to be safe.
I have since switched to RL16 and am running 76.5gr with 2980 fps. Can run it up to 77gr @ 2995 fps before I start stressing my Hornady brass primer pockets. (Again, that's in a 26" barrel) In a 30" barrel like your rifle, and with good brass, I'm sure RL16 will get you well over 3000 fps using a 250gr bullet. Start at 75.5gr RL16 and work up just to be safe.
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