308 modification

[Teri Anne]

Hey

I have a 308 savage long range hunter. The rifle worked very well for about 4 years. All the sudden this year it's started to really get messed up. Not hitting on paper at 20. I think it's related to the rifles stock. I have kind of out grown the gun and want to go to a heavier caliber for hunting but would still like to hold on to my 308.

I'll primarily use it for spring black bear hunting and maybe antelope.

Anyways this is a long way for me to say I'm going to turn this rifle into a frankenstein. I'm thinking of about dropping the barrel and action into an MDT oryx chassis.

The barrel is currently 20 inches long. I have a banish 30 can I want to put on it. What do you guys think I can chop the barrel to and expect good performance at 500 and below. Good enough to take down a bear or antelope but doesn't need to be competition accurate. I'm looking for ethical accuracy not competition accuracy.

Any other modifications you might suggest would be appreciated.

I understand this isn't a dream build. With the exception of the chassis and barrel chop I'm not putting much money into it. In reality I'm just trying to do something different with my 308. I'll be spending more money on building a 300 win mag later this year.

At 500 yards you will need competition (sub moa) accuracy to ensure an ethical shot, especially on a bear. They are not going to roll over and die unless you hit them in a vital area, especially at that range with a 308 when velocity and energy have dropped off.

 

[nunya2222]

Something isn't adding up here. Guns just do go from shooting to not even being on paper at 20 yards, especially in a super mild, stable cartridge like .308.

Did you run over it with your truc

No doubt. I haven't run it over with my truck yet but I want to. I have had a gun smith look at it, a long rifle building enthusiast, a marine who worked in the armory and multiple long range shooters use it. None of them can seem to figure it out. we have literally taken it apart and put it back together mulitple times and can't figure out the issue. The only obvious wild card at this point is the stock. Honestly I don't even care that much about the rifle that much anymore. I'm more interested in learning what went wrong. In the process I have learned alot more about rifles than I expected and the knowledge acquired is way more valuable than the rifle itself.

 

[Ol' Red]

No doubt. I haven't run it over with my truck yet but I want to. I have had a gun smith look at it, a long rifle building enthusiast, a marine who worked in the armory and multiple long range shooters use it. None of them can seem to figure it out. we have literally taken it apart and put it back together mulitple times and can't figure out the issue. The only obvious wild card at this point is the stock. Honestly I don't even care that much about the rifle that much anymore. I'm more interested in learning what went wrong. In the process I have learned alot more about rifles than I expected and the knowledge acquired is way more valuable than the rifle itself.

You need a new gunsmith.

 

[Hoss Smith]

How long has it been cleaned down to bare metal?
I'm not talking about looking down the bore I mean with an actual bore scope?
If you don't want to spend 50-60 dollars on a bore scope I would buy some sweets or other copper remover.
Get out any carbon first and use some job bore paste with the copper remover until their is not fouling.
If that doesn't work then I would consider new barrel.
But for the price Id just buy a new rifle. New barrel 800.00
New Ruger American 500.00
If it was a action or rifle worth the expense then yes re barrel.
95% of the time on cheaper guns it isn't worth rebarrling

What he says, one of my friends just had the same problem with a savage. Turns out the barrel was the problem.