300RUM over 2moa :(

JP Hunter

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Joined
Nov 26, 2007
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Location
Northern California, City of Redding
:)Ok all,


Here is my Dilemma. I have a 300Rum SPS. I have tried everything that most of you all have suggested on reloading and still can't get this thing under 2-3moa. I have shot different scopes to test my scope and found no difference. And many more tricks.

I am sure there maybe something I haven't tried and am open to more suggestions.

But my main question is: What would you do with a bad Rem? Would you just sell the gun and start over, get a new barrel and if a new barrel would you go with the old 300Rum or a nice 300edg?


Thanks
JP
 
Don't know what you've tried yet but here's what I would do.
Bed the action (I use JB weld)
Make sure barrel is free floating, the factory SPS stock is pretty flimsy so make sure there is plenty of gap between the barrel and stock.
Torque the action screws to 65 inch pounds
Buy a box of factory ammo (no bergers)
Shoot some groups. Make sure you use a solid rest my bag is filled with corn cob media because it doesn't pack as hard as sand but it is more solid than poly beads, pvc beads, and a bunch of other synthetic fillers I have tried. A gun in this caliber in the 8-9 LBS range is gonna move so you need to make sure it sits in the same place on your bags for every shot. As flimsy as the factory stock is any shift on the bags could show up as POI change. Also hold the gun tighter than you would a lighter caliber on the bench, pull it into your shoulder with your bottom 3 fingers and wrap your thumb solidly around the stock. If your trigger is heavier than you like, squeeze your whole hand around the stock to fire instead of just squeezing with your index finger. If the groups look promising load up some ammo and work on load development.
I would use H1000 working my way from 89 grains to 93 grains. 190 grain SMK loaded .002 from the lands or if this is too long and you want to use as a repeater then go to max magazine length. Remington brass and your choice of primer.
If none of this works and you can put small groups on paper the same day you are trying to get this gun to group then you could get an after market stock and repeat (I like HS Precision and Grey Bull) or send to a smith for an accurizing package.
 
Just an opinion, but I would scrap everything but the action and bolt. Get a tubbs speed lock, jewell trigger, badger lug, Brux or Lilja 338 cal barrel to finish at 30" + brake, then a csr or painkiller, or ross shuler brake, wyatts extended box mag, and a AE style stock BELL AND carlson, HS, McMillan, Manners etc... and give it all to a trusted local smith and do a 338 edge to make use of your 300rum brass. Or call kevin cram or kirby allen and tell them what you want.
 
Had a friend that had same gun in a 300 win mag and was getting horrible groups also. Turned out the chamber was crooked.
Depends what you're after but you would probably best off to put a new barrel on it in whatever caliber you want that fits that bolt head. If you want something that fits on a different bolt face sell the entire rifle and start over.
If you sell it try a Savage. I was a die hard Remington fan until I bought a Savage 7WSM a couple years ago. It shot between 1/2" and 3/4" 3 shot groups right out of the box with minimal load work up. I don't like the accutrigger so I put in a rifle basics trigger and it's a pretty sweet set up. Since then I have built a 6.5x284 for a hunting rifle and it is a crazy shooter. We set up clay pigeons at 500 to 800 yards and have a blast.
Try a Savage you'll be surprised at how accurate they are.
 
JP, you gotta start with a stable platform. The SPS stock is junk. Get it in something rigid, bed the action, free float the barrel, tune the trigger, and see where you're at.

Check Stocky's, all kinds of good options, readily available.
 
Amen grit. The stock is crap. All my ultra's recieved a pretty new thumbole with a aluminum bedding block. Shrink them groups!!! Stockys is the place to go. One thing to keep in mind, if you have any mods, trigger, etc., you will have to fit the stock to your rifle. If you have no mods, it is plug and play!!

gun)
 
JP,
I also don't know what all you have done. But some of the things suggested I agree with. Replace the stock if it is in your budget. Bed and float seldom hurts. Check to see if your front screw in the scope base is too long. A good rest with a solid grip as recommended by 30 cal is the way to go. If you have been shooting VLDs only try something else. A recrown job wouldn't hurt!

And your thought on a 300 Edge. A 338 Edge is a 300 Ultra case necked up to .338 cal. So a 300 edge would just be a 300 Ultra.

Good luck
 
All,

Sorry for the late response to resent posts, but with the wife pregnant and work it's hard to find the time. Thank you for all the great advice. I apologize for being vague on the specifics. I do have a new stock with a nice thumb hole grip. I plan to bed it soon and float the barrel. I will check the front scope mount screw length. I need to remount my scope anyway. I have a lead sled and love it. I think I will try the box of factory amo then go from there.

What is a recrown job?

I just don't want to dump more time and money in if it won't work. My goal is to shoot big and small game out to 1000yd.

338Edge is what I ment. Got in a hurry. :D

Thank you for your time,
JP:)
 
The RUM class cartridges are great for the purpose but you need to be prepared for what it takes to shoot them. Not to say this is your problem, but I have found "Flinching" to be the number one problem with folks not being able to shoot the RUM class guns. Take another rifle with you and shoot that until you can shoot tiny little groups then work on the RUM. Try taking 5-10 dry fires making sure you see no movement through the scope between each live round. Some folks like the lead sleds, I hate 'em. I know of several rifles that just wouldn't shoot in them and consider this: The lead sled stops the rifles recoil cycle.....the recoil lug and action screws keep the action in the stock fine as long as the entire assembly moves upon firing. If the stock doesn't move, then the screws and recoil lug become splitting wedges with a whole bunch of force!lightbulb Just a few things to consider......
 
Did you buy this rifle new?

I used to work at a major outdoors store in the firearms section. We had a guy come in asking for advice because his brand new M700 in .204 Ruger (I can't remember the exact model but it had a 20" bull and B&C stock) was shooting 4-5 inch groups at 100 yards!

We told him to send it back to Remington.

When he received the rifle back there was a hand written note included by the Remington gunsmith that had performed the diagnostic, testing and repair outlining what he found and did to fix it. Basically, he found that the chamber and barrel were not in alignment. He rebarreled the rifle, trued the bolt, glass bedded the stock, and tweaked the trigger.

Today the rifle shoots 1/4-1/2 MOA consistently. All of this was done for the price of shipping because the rifle was still under warranty. If your rifle is still new, send it to Remington before you spend a bunch of money doing things that they will do for you.
 
I've had a several of SPS models. Some were shooters, but many were not. I spent way too much time and money tweaking them - trying to make them shoot. In most cases, it was a sloppy barrel. You could feel the tight spots in the barrel when you cleaned it. In my experience, if a rifle is shooting 2 to 3 MOA, it generally means something major is wrong with the rifle. I don't think bedding, reloading etc. will close up a group that size enough to please you.

If the gun is under warranty, send it back and see what Rem can do for you. If out of warranty, get rid of the barrel. Sniper's Hide has a group buy going on right now for Rock Creek button-rifled barrels. Fantastic barrel at great price. Have the smith re-cut the receiver threads and spin it on. You will be happy.
 
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