300 WM Load

I'll give you my take on hunting with the 300WM.
If you hunt within 400yrds, then any of the 180-190gr bullets will do just fine.
If you plan on hunting beyond this, then 200-215gr bullets hold their velocity better due to the higher BC.

Personally, I use 200gr Accubonds, I am still working on 210 ABLR in one of my rifles, if it pans out I will give them a try. For extreme ranges to 1000 and beyond, I currently use 215gr Berger Hybrids.

Powders I use are H1000, Retumbo, RE25 and RE33.

Cheers.
:)
 
I am just finishing up some load develpment in my 300 and used a 225 gr. ELD-m, Winchester brass (which I wouldnt really recommend) cci 250 primers reloder 26. 2900 fps 24" barreI in about a 1/2" group. Cant really complain about that. I don't know about that bullet performance on game wether close or long range but it seems to shoot straight. I ised h1000 before with the 212 eldx and had great luck. I dont believe that h1000 is the fastest powder out there but it was easy to use, consistent and used by many.
 
My current load for the 300 WM is shooting great groups out of my CA at about .3-.4 MOA. I am using Hornady brass (I had a bunch of new 300 WM laying around so I used it, but I'd go with something else if I was buying new), 212gr ELD-X at .02" off the lands (I also have shot 200gr ELD-X and 210gr VLDs and they all shot well, but my rifle really likes the 212s), CCI 250 primers, and 79 gr of H1000 (this is a hot charge in many rifles- I started at 74gr and worked up to 79gr and no pressure signs).
 
Would like to developer a 300 WM load for elk hunting (ideally one load that can be effective for short or long range. If it doesn't exist I'll load for one of each)

I have never reloaded before, but my dad has all the equipment.

Who is willing to share the fruits of their labor with me? Bullet type, brass type, primer type, powder type (and amount).

Am I missing something? I'd like optimum performance. From what I can gather, the Berger VLDs look quite nice.

Thank you all in advance!

Also, if you know a thread where this already exists I'd be happy to read through it if you can point me in the right direction.

My 300WM is shooting Berger 210 HVLDs at 2810 fps for consistent 5-shot groups under 1 inch at 200 yds. 75.5 grains H1000; Norma Brass full length sized (I do not anneal b/c I don't know how and don't have equipment); WLRM primers. I'm seating 0.011 inches from the lands.

Most of my elk hunting is with a muzzleloader. Others on the forum will have much more performance on game with that bullet, but a 225 yard shot on bull elk liquified the internals (no exit) for a quick kill, and an antelope at 250 yards left an exit larger than a softball for an immediate kill. Hoping to put it to us on a black bear this year.

26 inch Chanlynn barrel (w/ Holland brake); Stiller TAC 300 action; Wyatts extended box; Manners EH2 stock; Leupold Mark 6 3-18 x44mm.

Good luck!
 
Like many others have stated 200-215 grain bullets 75-78 gr. H-1000 seated at mag length. I used CCI 250's with Nosler Brass but I am sure others will work. 2800-2900 FPS with sub MOA groups in every one that I have tried.
 
Would like to developer a 300 WM load for elk hunting (ideally one load that can be effective for short or long range. If it doesn't exist I'll load for one of each)

I have never reloaded before, but my dad has all the equipment.

Who is willing to share the fruits of their labor with me? Bullet type, brass type, primer type, powder type (and amount).

Am I missing something? I'd like optimum performance. From what I can gather, the Berger VLDs look quite nice.

Thank you all in advance!

Also, if you know a thread where this already exists I'd be happy to read through it if you can point me in the right direction.
 
Having hunted Elk,Deep, Antelope, in the Wyoming Rockies:
My 1st choice is, (my 1st rifle) 1968 Rem 700 BDL, totally stock, which included Rem's Blued, factory, SS BBL, freefloated by me using sandpaper & polyurethane to seal, with their amazing, "litigation proof" factory trigger set to 3.0 lbs, (and Harris bipod if course ) to work up max loads at the 1968 standard of 180/ 3080 FPS in a 24"Er. Using 72.5/4350-180 Nosler partition for Elk, and 180 BT FOR Deer & antilope . Somewhat shoulder pleasant when benching 100 rounds. 1/2". @100 yds was easy at near max loads, and consistent at colder, higher elevations. Almost as fast as a Weatherby, you could match it if you EXTENDed THE CHAMBERS throat .1 or .15", and let the brass grow longer necks to fit it.
Partition and BT Similar in ballistics: BUT the secret is to use max point blank range for an elks 8 or 10" zone. No holdover/ hold under worries at any range or angle. **you know you can't possibly judge it anyway, when you hear that tree crashing rumble tumbling down the mountain. Or when that herd of cows finally emerge running full tilt, from the deadfall/ thick forest nearby, or from the only clearing on sone distant clearcut, and you have seconds to guess where the bull has placed himself.
The 24" Rem is faster, lighter, easier to get to when on horseback or waking through deadfall, or when the quick shot is the only shot you get.
Bought 2 cases if Rem 180 factory core-locts, 1/2" Group @100 yds, Same poi year after year l@ 3" high at 100- I stopped reloading fir this. And only deer hunted, NYS, with these.

My 2nd choice -was converting Rems "338 Win Mag Classic" to a mountain rifle.
I asked K McMillan, to custom design and clone, Wearherbys MK V synthetic stock shape for the REM 338 WM classic, Bbl action. A stunner that even impressed Kelley. It turned heads whenever it appeared, and racks whenever it barked! So comfortable to benchrest. Light as a feather-quicker into action than the 300wm

**You could hear the sound of the trigger /sear mvmt, right up to the disconnection sound, and be able to Time let off! The sounds were conducted / amplified through the stock to your ear.
Yes, that same "Made by Swiss Watchmakers, Litigation Free" fully adjustable (target capable) trigger, set at 2.5 lbs.

SO what if THE 250/arched like a 3o-06? MPBR IS THE SIGHT IN RULE. That 250 gives you expanded options of when to fire!
 
Last edited:
My 300WM is shooting Berger 210 HVLDs at 2810 fps for consistent 5-shot groups under 1 inch at 200 yds. 75.5 grains H1000; Norma Brass full length sized (I do not anneal b/c I don't know how and don't have equipment); WLRM primers. I'm seating 0.011 inches from the lands.

Most of my elk hunting is with a muzzleloader. Others on the forum will have much more performance on game with that bullet, but a 225 yard shot on bull elk liquified the internals (no exit) for a quick kill, and an antelope at 250 yards left an exit larger than a softball for an immediate kill. Hoping to put it to us on a black bear this year.

26 inch Chanlynn barrel (w/ Holland brake); Stiller TAC 300 action; Wyatts extended box; Manners EH2 stock; Leupold Mark 6 3-18 x44mm.

Good luck!
It is my understanding that Berger bullets are made to fragment? Is that correct? I am trying to stray away from bullet fragmentation for hunting (I would like to harvest the heart and liver).
 
It is my understanding that Berger bullets are made to fragment? Is that correct? I am trying to stray away from bullet fragmentation for hunting (I would like to harvest the heart and liver).
Yes, that bullet does fragment. You wouldn't want any part if the heart or liver on the elk I shot.
 
I just started using to rl 26 and 225 eldm and have great results. I hit very surprising speeds out of my 24" barrel but backed it off because of pressure. I would reccomend giving it a try.
 
A lot of talk about H1000 but is anyone using RL26? And if not why?

I don't use RL26 because of my location. Deer season can see highs in the upper 80's to lows in the teens. Not a fan of something being unstable when it's 80-85°. Also summer has been well into the 90's many days, so that would make unstable loads to practice with.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 7 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top