• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

300 Win Mag???

So, I realize this is a personal decision. I am just trying to get a little feedback.

I am thinking strongly of going with a 300 WM for my next rifle. I already have one, pre-64 M70 that was my dads. It shoots great, but…… it is a shoulder killer. I can't bring myself to putting a muzzle brake on it due to collector and sentimental value.

So here's the dilemma. I can go out of the box with something like X-Bolt, Tikka, bergara, or others for around the price point I am thinking. What would I be looking at custom-wise? Right now I am looking at just the rifle. I will figure out optics at a later time.

My goal is 800+ Yards. This will be used for hunting also. So weight is a consideration, but it doesn't have to be the featherweight option.

I am already a setup to load 300 WM which is another reason. I don't really want a new caliber due to how tough it is is to get certain things at the moment.


You mention that you can't bring yourself to put a muzzle brake on the gun due to it being a collecttor. To me, that implies that you'd might sell it someday. If that's true I can why you'd not brake it.

You also mention the sentimental value, that to me implies that it's a rifle you wish to pass on someday. If so, then I see no reason not to brake it.

First and foremost I'd say sort out if it's a long term family rifle that you'll pass on or if it's a collector that you want to cash in on someday.

Personally, I'd say brake it and use it!
 
I have a 50 year old plus .300 WM, FN bench rest single shot (no magazine) with a 26" Hart, 10 twist #5 barrel. Receiver ring trued & lugs lapped in. Except for the metal work I did much of the work on this rifle myself.

I load my ammo at up to 3.6" COAL depending on bullet. Right now, I am using 71 grains or so of Alliant PP 4000MR with 178 Hornady ELDM bullets at a comfortable 3,100 plus fps. The heel of bullet shank & boat tail is just above junction of shoulder & neck. Head-space on shoulder, CCI 34 primers. I would guess that my load capacity with this combo is about 93%. The rifle shoots 200 ELDX -208 (old stash AMax) grain bullets real good with IMR7977 (impossible to find). I seat my bullets with an antique Vickermann die.

I don't shoot it very much because of barrel wear & expense, lots of powder & pricy bullets. It hits steel much harder than any of my 6.5's. American walnut thumb hole stock. The whole works, rifle, scope, sling weights about 11 pounds. I am looking into getting a biathlon double shoulder sling for my old body to transport this rifle.

If I had to do it again I would get a Rem 700 long action, stock it as a single shot, with a #5 high quality SS 10 twist barrel, square up receiver ring & lap lugs, throated for ammo depending on bullet over 3.5" COAL. I would use a reasonably good MRad scope having a max power of 14X to 18X with a priority on it being relatively compact. Except for scope it might come in at just under $1,200, provided I did most of the stock work myself.

It don't kick as nearly as bad as my .375.
 
Last edited:
You mention that you can't bring yourself to put a muzzle brake on the gun due to it being a collecttor. To me, that implies that you'd might sell it someday. If that's true I can why you'd not brake it.

You also mention the sentimental value, that to me implies that it's a rifle you wish to pass on someday. If so, then I see no reason not to brake it.

First and foremost I'd say sort out if it's a long term family rifle that you'll pass on or if it's a collector that you want to cash in on someday.

Personally, I'd say brake it and use it!
I also have a similar rifle being a '61 mod70 264wm sporter from my dad. It's tough too find enough metal on the thin barrel for brake threads. Some things not ever too be changed! After 2,500 rounds that I've put down the pipe the chamber looks like southern aged by heat Arizona black top.
 
A Savage110 stealth is a good option! You could change the barrel out for a carbon fiber too save some weight, but the 24" package isn't very heavy.
 
You mention that you can't bring yourself to put a muzzle brake on the gun due to it being a collecttor. To me, that implies that you'd might sell it someday. If that's true I can why you'd not brake it.

You also mention the sentimental value, that to me implies that it's a rifle you wish to pass on someday. If so, then I see no reason not to brake it.

First and foremost I'd say sort out if it's a long term family rifle that you'll pass on or if it's a collector that you want to cash in on someday.

Personally, I'd say brake it and use it!

That's an appreciated response. My other thought was new barrel and brake. Hold the original barrel for the restoration if it ever occurred.

My dad would have much rather it be used than sat in a safe, and a friend of his told me as such.

I have shot it and even developed a couple good loads for it since he passed. The recoil
Is a kicker, as some are to be expected.

A decision is to be made….. customize dads gun or buy and do something else. It's mine to make…

Hell, the 30-06 he bought me 20+ years ago is still the rifle I go to for a sanity check if I think another rifle is off. If the -06 is true, it's the rifle, if not, it's the knucklehead shooting it (me!)
 
Good thinking IMO...I have my Grandpa's P64/ M70/FWT/06. He bought it the year I was born so it's pretty special to me. Long story short, I inherited it when I was 13 or so, and then in 1992 I got bored with the 06 round.

I knew I wouldn't use it anymore as a 06 so I rebarreled it. Kept the original barrel and hunted the heck out of it. Wore out 3 barrels and I know that Gramps was smiling.

Long and the short I had a smith put the original barrel back on it this summer and I'm now running amuck with it again.

Something to think about eh
 
I would personally buy a tikka T3x and use it until I decided to have a custom barrel put on it. Then add a custom stock, dbm and mag from Mountain Tactical. Drop a trigger spring in it and you have a semi custom rifle that is light and you don't have a crazy amount of money tied up.
 
So, I realize this is a personal decision. I am just trying to get a little feedback.

I am thinking strongly of going with a 300 WM for my next rifle. I already have one, pre-64 M70 that was my dads. It shoots great, but…… it is a shoulder killer. I can't bring myself to putting a muzzle brake on it due to collector and sentimental value.

So here's the dilemma. I can go out of the box with something like X-Bolt, Tikka, bergara, or others for around the price point I am thinking. What would I be looking at custom-wise? Right now I am looking at just the rifle. I will figure out optics at a later time.

My goal is 800+ Yards. This will be used for hunting also. So weight is a consideration, but it doesn't have to be the featherweight option.

I am already a setup to load 300 WM which is another reason. I don't really want a new caliber due to how tough it is is to get certain things at the moment.
Get a good stock with proper geometry for Dads rifle...then go shoot it!
You'd be amazed what proper dimensions can do.
 
So, I realize this is a personal decision. I am just trying to get a little feedback.

I am thinking strongly of going with a 300 WM for my next rifle. I already have one, pre-64 M70 that was my dads. It shoots great, but…… it is a shoulder killer. I can't bring myself to putting a muzzle brake on it due to collector and sentimental value.

So here's the dilemma. I can go out of the box with something like X-Bolt, Tikka, bergara, or others for around the price point I am thinking. What would I be looking at custom-wise? Right now I am looking at just the rifle. I will figure out optics at a later time.

My goal is 800+ Yards. This will be used for hunting also. So weight is a consideration, but it doesn't have to be the featherweight option.

I am already a setup to load 300 WM which is another reason. I don't really want a new caliber due to how tough it is is to get certain things at the moment.
I recommend a 300 PRC. Similar recoil but gives you the option of shooting longer bullets seated longer. But if you want to stick with 300 WM it's a good choice too.

DO NOT GET A 300 WM IN AN X-BOLT!!! Reloaded ammo tends to bind in the mag. Their rotary mags use the same mag as 7mm and 338. The shoulder will bind and you will have feeding problems which are very frustrating. Known problem. Get something on a Remington 700 or clone action. I love my Christenson.
 
So, I realize this is a personal decision. I am just trying to get a little feedback.

I am thinking strongly of going with a 300 WM for my next rifle. I already have one, pre-64 M70 that was my dads. It shoots great, but…… it is a shoulder killer. I can't bring myself to putting a muzzle brake on it due to collector and sentimental value.

So here's the dilemma. I can go out of the box with something like X-Bolt, Tikka, bergara, or others for around the price point I am thinking. What would I be looking at custom-wise? Right now I am looking at just the rifle. I will figure out optics at a later time.

My goal is 800+ Yards. This will be used for hunting also. So weight is a consideration, but it doesn't have to be the featherweight option.

I am already a setup to load 300 WM which is another reason. I don't really want a new caliber due to how tough it is is to get certain things at the moment.
No better for the money than the Tikka T3X - or whatever the latest model - where the made a few improvements.
That said - did you try a new, improved pad for the buttstock of your trusty M70? They work almost as good as a brake.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top