300 wby help

I've got a .300 Wby Mk V that I bought at age 17, 47 years ago. Its a long story but it was the first rig I ever bought and I bought it from a benevolent Dr. friend who decided "the hunting thing" just wasn't for him--he sold it to me for $250,00. Took it to Africa May of 2019...it just shoots. One downside--weight...got a little heavy after a 15 mile stalk on a particularly spooky herd of Eland. It still shoots Sub MOA and looks like new...and its been everywhere. I'm using the same load since 1973 with a bullet upgrade about five years ago from Hornady 180 gr BTSP to Barnes 180 gr TTSX. I use 79 grs, IMR-4831, Fed 215 primers and Wby brass. I could never get a lighter bullet to shoot...any bullet and any powder combo. Nope--gimme something heavier it said. With a 26 inch #2 contour barrel it gives me 3208 fps and a commanding performance on game. 1/10 twist.
 
When asked how the rifle shot with the old barrel/trigger, Bearman375 replied:
Not very good at all, trigger is very good.
First thing I would do, is put a new or proven scope on the rifle to see if that's the problem. Make sure your bases are tight and not just bottomed out. I've seen bases move around while tight because the base screw was bottomed out, too long for the action. Over the years I have Returned five Leopold Scopes for various issues.

So it didn't shoot very good with the old barrel. More or less the same with the new barrel. I would have a look at the scope base to receiver screws. As 6x6elk wrote , you may have a scope base screw that is just a hair too long and while it feels tight when installing, it is bottomed out just enough to let the base move slightly.
 
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I wish we knew what not very good is,....I have a rifle that 0.6" is no5 very good to me. I have others which I would be very pleased with that!
 
Hi there, I have a Montana rifle in 300 wby, I just had a #3 Bartlien barrel installed by a very good gunsmith. It has a great tigger and is bedded in the factory Montana stock. I broke the barrel in per the instructions. H-4831, IMR 4350 and a box of factory wby 180 ammo. I can't get the gun to shoot! It's a 1 in 10 twist. I cleaned real well with CR-10, then ran JB Bore Paste down the barrel, then cleaned again and oiled. the bullet I'm trying to get to shoot is a 168 accubond long range. The scope is a 4.5x14 leupold, Warne bases and Leupold PRW rings. I loaded a bunch more with IMR 7828, R-19, and AA-3100. Now, by the way, during break in the barrel was very very filthy. I'm hoping that the JB Bore Paste helps. I seat the bullets so it clears the magazine for magazine clearance purposes. All bases, rings and scope are top notch and tight. I'm told that IMR 7828 is the go to powder? Any tips? Maybe takes awhile to break in? I'm letting the barrel cool after a few shots as well. Thanks for any tips at all to get this going.

Just a thought; kinda an Occam's razer moment... have you tried flat base and/or round nose bullets? Just as an exercise in covering all the opposition(s), I know it's not the bullet profile you're wanting to shoot... but.. the results might surprise you and lead you to where you want to go in your search. Good luck.
 
I seat them till they fit in the magazine, I can go deeper but not sure I want to....I'm going to try a bunch of loads soon
I do the same with my 300 Win Mags because I hunt with them. If I need a second shot, I need it now, not after I get it from a loop and can manually load it.
Someone here suggested that you try a different bullet. That's a good suggestion. I've got a couple of rifles that are very partial to the type of bullet and weight of bullet that I load, and some that will shoot poorly with one powder and well with a different but comparable powder. But nearly everything I have will shoot Sierras or the Hornaday Amaxes.
 
Have you checked the throat length? Years back the SAAMI standard for the 300Wby included a long throat, which enabled Weatherby to boost velocity a little. Not really helpful for best accuracy.
Very short throat, bullets seated shallow to cannelure would engage the rifling until I seated deep on the cannelure they would then chamber nicely
 
I have seen great advice from alot of people but what I haven't seen is a recommendation for checking the action screws(unless I missed it somewhere in all the replies). Action screws must be tight and torqued to the proper specifications or you won't get good groupings. Specifications will vary between the type of stck material as well as bedding material. The fact that factory loads won't shoot well indeed indicates a problem although I don't know how many DIFFERENT types of factory ammo you have shot. The amount of freebore is generous in WBY to say the least. I had a MK V in .300 Win that had .257 in freebore from the mouth Of the case to the lands; very difficult to load for. You may want to ask your gunsmith how much freebore he put in your barrel when it was chambered, you might just have a rifle that is finicky in CBTO length. If that's the case you will just have to take a load that shoots halfway decent and play with the CBTO length to determine the sweet spot.
very little free bore, not at all like factory wby, my 257 weathermark has a lot of freebore though
 
Try barnes ttsx in 168 or 180. They like a jump and have alea

Try barnes 168 or 180 ttsx. They

3rd try, try barnes 168 or 180 ttsx. They like a a jump. Have always been accurate and performance is outstanding!
I killed a lot of huge bears in British Columbia with the tsx and 340 wby, very disappointing results, swithched to accubonds they are wicked!
 

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Hi there, I have a Montana rifle in 300 wby, I just had a #3 Bartlien barrel installed by a very good gunsmith. It has a great tigger and is bedded in the factory Montana stock. I broke the barrel in per the instructions. H-4831, IMR 4350 and a box of factory wby 180 ammo. I can't get the gun to shoot! It's a 1 in 10 twist. I cleaned real well with CR-10, then ran JB Bore Paste down the barrel, then cleaned again and oiled. the bullet I'm trying to get to shoot is a 168 accubond long range. The scope is a 4.5x14 leupold, Warne bases and Leupold PRW rings. I loaded a bunch more with IMR 7828, R-19, and AA-3100. Now, by the way, during break in the barrel was very very filthy. I'm hoping that the JB Bore Paste helps. I seat the bullets so it clears the magazine for magazine clearance purposes. All bases, rings and scope are top notch and tight. I'm told that IMR 7828 is the go to powder? Any tips? Maybe takes awhile to break in? I'm letting the barrel cool after a few shots as well. Thanks for any tips at all to get this going.


Lots of good ideas have come up, I'd only offer to start at the start.....scope that's trusted, mechanically ready to roll and some good bullets to try.

The LRAB and the Accu are not the bullets I'd personally begin with. I'd move to those bullets once I found other loads to shoot. Those bullets fit into what I call "bitchy bullets". Meaning they can be quite tempermental.

Let the gun tell you what it likes to shoot, don't try to dictate to it what it'll like.

Try the good old boring 180 Horn sp flat base. If it won't shoot that bullet then there's issues. Also the 180 NBT.
 
I've got a .300 Wby Mk V that I bought at age 17, 47 years ago. Its a long story but it was the first rig I ever bought and I bought it from a benevolent Dr. friend who decided "the hunting thing" just wasn't for him--he sold it to me for $250,00. Took it to Africa May of 2019...it just shoots. One downside--weight...got a little heavy after a 15 mile stalk on a particularly spooky herd of Eland. It still shoots Sub MOA and looks like new...and its been everywhere. I'm using the same load since 1973 with a bullet upgrade about five years ago from Hornady 180 gr BTSP to Barnes 180 gr TTSX. I use 79 grs, IMR-4831, Fed 215 primers and Wby brass. I could never get a lighter bullet to shoot...any bullet and any powder combo. Nope--gimme something heavier it said. With a 26 inch #2 contour barrel it gives me 3208 fps and a commanding performance on game. 1/10 twist.
That's awesome thanks for the story
 
Lots of good ideas have come up, I'd only offer to start at the start.....scope that's trusted, mechanically ready to roll and some good bullets to try.

The LRAB and the Accu are not the bullets I'd personally begin with. I'd move to those bullets once I found other loads to shoot. Those bullets fit into what I call "bitchy bullets". Meaning they can be quite tempermental.

Let the gun tell you what it likes to shoot, don't try to dictate to it what it'll like.

Try the good old boring 180 Horn sp flat base. If it won't shoot that bullet then there's issues. Also the 180 NBT.
I will do that, I got lots of both...thanks
 
When asked how the rifle shot with the old barrel/trigger, Bearman375 replied:



So it didn't shoot very good with the old barrel. More or less the same with the new barrel. I would have a look at the scope base to receiver screws. As 6x6elk wrote , you may have a scope base screw that is just a hair too long and while it feels tight when installing, it is bottomed out just enough to let the base move slightly.
It shot an 1 1/2". With old barrel, the Bartlien I'm expecting much much better
 
Hi there, I have a Montana rifle in 300 wby, I just had a #3 Bartlien barrel installed by a very good gunsmith. It has a great tigger and is bedded in the factory Montana stock. I broke the barrel in per the instructions. H-4831, IMR 4350 and a box of factory wby 180 ammo. I can't get the gun to shoot! It's a 1 in 10 twist. I cleaned real well with CR-10, then ran JB Bore Paste down the barrel, then cleaned again and oiled. the bullet I'm trying to get to shoot is a 168 accubond long range. The scope is a 4.5x14 leupold, Warne bases and Leupold PRW rings. I loaded a bunch more with IMR 7828, R-19, and AA-3100. Now, by the way, during break in the barrel was very very filthy. I'm hoping that the JB Bore Paste helps. I seat the bullets so it clears the magazine for magazine clearance purposes. All bases, rings and scope are top notch and tight. I'm told that IMR 7828 is the go to powder? Any tips? Maybe takes awhile to break in? I'm letting the barrel cool after a few shots as well. Thanks for any tips at all to get this going.
I'd suggest starting from scratch and go right through the whole assembly again before you wear the barrel out out. Most of my time with a new rifle or barrel is spent going over everything before even firing a shot.
Is the rifle assembled in a stress free state?
Can you check the bedding of action to stock, if not rebed, particularly if it's a timber stock.
Check the bolt handle does not touch the stock when closed, if so adjust for clearance.
See that the barrel channel is open and not touching.
Look at the barrel crowning for damage during shipping.
Fit the scope which has been centered by a scope technician and bore sight adjusting the mounts to nearly put the scope on target
Check the scope mounts for fit to receiver, lap the rings and epoxy bed the bases to the receiver.
Go to the range and fire one shot,then adjust the scope cross hairs to the bullet hole you fired.
Start your barrel break-in procedure and you should be right on target after firing less than 5 shots knowing the rifle is assembled well.
To assist having a stress free assembly don't tighten screws so that they buckle or bend anything.
The final tightening is done after the epoxy between the components has cured.
 
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