300 rum load development

Mileage will vary, so use with caution. I'm using 94 gr. of RL33 with the 230 gr. Berger OTM Hybrid. Seeing just over 3,020 fps in a 28" barrel. No pressure signs, but very close to a max load for my rifle. Close to 400 rounds down the tune at this point.

I will probably be backing down to 92 grains (est. 2,950 fps), just to save on barrel wear and tear. I found nodes at both at 92 and 94 grains with RL33.
I'm running 95 grains rl33 with the 225 hdy in 2 300rum rifles. You are probably close to max load with the berger at 94-95 grains...
Another way to skin this cat is to go to 100-102 grains rl50. It'll net you the same 3000 fps... It seems like a bit lower pressure in my rifles. YMMV
 
Pretty much all the loads I've shot with this gun have an ejector mark. I'm not sure why... I did get slight bolt sticky and bad primer crater at 91 so I consider this max.


when i first started loading for the 300rum i also had similar ejector marks and almost as much primer crater as these pictures when using new nosler brass .. we may or may not have had the same issues to cause it ... the primer in your picture does say pressure to me ( so your probably close none the less )... but im just talking about the ejector mark for now

let me explain what i found was happening to me , then you decide if that might be related to your issue

my chamber headspace was longer than the new nosler brass, (i dont have those measurements because it was ready to load right ?)...

when doing my work up originally the same as you. i started seeing those same ejector marks way sooner than the hodgdon data said i should ??? i was confused as to why. when everyone else was loading up to 2-3 full grains more ???

What i found was , once my brass was fired to match that chamber and i was able to get the case to fit snug on bolt close, using all of the same components ... i was able to get a closer to the higher data for this cartridge before the ejector marks started showing up again

therefore, i think there is 2 causes of ejector mark pressure signs ( both equally alarming and deserving of attention), one type caused by slamming case back due to over sizing and another caused by flowing into it ...

if starting with new nosler brass or any brand for that matter , it may be a good idea to measure the shoulder first, run some seating test at a low charge to form em making use of those shots , measure again and see what length they had grown ... then work on your powder charge tests ,

there was a few that suggested to full length size ?? i am the opposite .. i would only recommend sizing enough to make fit snug using whatever die makes that happen , of coarse after you adjust that barrel nut

alot of factory ammo will show those same marks ..
 
Well I have 3 , 300 rums. All them lover Imr 7828 90 gr , from 165 to 200 gr. 4 leaf clover it. H1000 is another great one.
 
I checked the headspace. The headspace is fine. So I made sure my bolt/lugs was greased well and chambered a piece of new brass, 1x fired brass, then 2x fired brass. The new brass chambered perfect, the 1x was tight and took some pressure, the 2x would not chamber (too tight). Basically, my brass is growing too much to just neck size. I'm going to have to FL size.

I think the 1x was just too tight and pressure showed on all since they were so tight. I got ejector swipe just chambering them...

Looks like I need a body die then start over.
 
I checked the headspace. The headspace is fine. So I made sure my bolt/lugs was greased well and chambered a piece of new brass, 1x fired brass, then 2x fired brass. The new brass chambered perfect, the 1x was tight and took some pressure, the 2x would not chamber (too tight). Basically, my brass is growing too much to just neck size. I'm going to have to FL size.

I think the 1x was just too tight and pressure showed on all since they were so tight. I got ejector swipe just chambering them...

Looks like I need a body die then start over.


 
Ha... I'm hard headed and neck sizing is how I learned reloading but it was with 6.5x47 and 6br. These big high pressure calibers are different... I'm going to buy FL die and press now...
 
Ha... I'm hard headed and neck sizing is how I learned reloading but it was with 6.5x47 and 6br. These big high pressure calibers are different... I'm going to buy FL die and press now...


Watch Eric's video. Full length sizing gives you the exact same case dimensions every time. I have never worn out brass due to sizing. FL sizing properly ensures no bolt closer issues and no extraction issues.
 
Nk v FL I'm not ready to quit neck sizing. My 300UM Surgeon is a honest 1/4" gun on an average every day. I neck size. I only FL size when case grows too much or with annealing. (Every 4-6 firings) I never have a tight bolt or jammed case. Not once if pressure is right.

I have a perfect case in point. I recently bought a 24" 224 Valkyrie barrel from arguably one of the best makers around. I spent $790 five months ago. 240 rounds thru it, 5 powders, 6 bullets and my 30/30 is a better shooter. I use new Starline brass. After my first range trip I measured the cases. Every one grew .008" in lenght and .006" to 009 in diameter in different places. The lenght can be dealt with using a FL die but the diameter is another beast. So I FL resized several once fired cases. And they shot like ——/. The resized OD on the cases was exactly the same as the new Starline brass, and its not a small base die, which would be worse. So I neck sized. If bumping a shoulder for .002" clearance is required for accuracy how can sizing a case OD back .005-.009" only to have it expand back .005"-.009" for every firing help accuracy? It doesn't. I spend a lot of money on chambers. If one does not know the relationship between their chamber and OEM dies they are leaving accuracy on the table.

I fit, build or buy a die to be .002"/.002" (lenght and OD) to my chambers. This is very simple to do with any tapered case using the chamber reamer and a blank die body from PTG. You could sort of do it with a FL die but you wouldn't go in far enough to move the shoulder.

Using a SAMMI FL die, which means min spec FL OD die, in a custom chamber can work harden your brass if you move it .008" each time.

IF you have a chamber reamer that cut .002/.002 over min SAMMI then by all means FL every time.

There are no absolutes in what we do. So with some qualifications yes, full lenght size. However to say it as the be all end all to Precision loading is just wrong.

Has anyone noticed on the Valkyrie threads there is a pretty common load note from a lot of people? That is that neck sized fired brass is strangely 50% more accurate than new or FL sized brass? That has been my experience too.

As far as the competition crowd goes, many of the people I know use dies made by their smith or they send out fired brass to have custom dies made. Why?
When you have $10k in a gun and glass, $300 in match dies makes a lot of sense. And you can measure the difference in inches @ 1000.

Just my opinion.
 
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